I was in home depot the other day and they have an orchid promo on Phals for $9.99. What caught my eye is every one was blooming on at least 2 new spikes with some having 3 spikes. The best I can do is bloom on one new and one old spike. So does any one know how the grower got these to put out multi spikes? By the way 90% had no ids but I my body forced me to buy got one that had a name tag.
I've heard several theories, the one that makes most sense to me is that the plants are held back from blooming (usually through temperature control) for a year or two past maturity, then pushed. Similar in a way to one of Martin Motes' strategies for getting awards on his vandaceous -- cut a spike or two while they're still short, before they initiate buds, forcing the plant to save up its energy for the next blooming and thereby making it more spectacular. Kenni
Dusty, I would agree with what Kenni wrote. While in Taiwan for the IPA Symposium we learned that the best and double infloresences spring from below the fourth pair of leaves. So the orchid needs to be mature enough to reach 5 pairs of leaves or more. The orchids are maintained at 83 degrees which inhibits spiking and promotes lush foliage. They are meticulously monitored for the cycle of wet to almost dry. I don't recall about fertilizer. When an order comes in they are shifted to the cool house for 21 days. It was amazing to see that every orchid was on que pushing up thick healthy spikes. I believe that most multifloral hybrids can be prompted to double spike. Beyond that it is a matter of what the Home Depot wanted. Single spikes are just not shipped. About fertilizer I think that regular fertilizer during the warm period would also contribute to great leaves and roots. The addage "weak weekly" comes to mind. So inhibit the spikes at 83 degrees and grow big heavy leaves... five deep. Monitor the moisture cycle. Then trick'em! with a sudden cool spell at 55-60 degrees. Bingo! I hope you get some doubles. Lee
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That might explain my abundance of spikes this year. I left the plants outside longer this year - until night time temps were dipping into the mid forties. My only exception is my tolumnia, I had to bring them in about mid summer because the grasshoppers couldn't get enough of them and they are in spike right along with the other plants. I wasn't aware that warm temps would inhibit spikes. I had a few phals bloom this summer when temps were well into the 90's but I assume the spikes started during the cooler spring weather. Will have to try tricking a few and see how that works out.
Google Yin-Tung Wang of Texas A&M. Eventually you'll get to a list of his articles on phalaenopsis. They explain all.
K Barrett
Thanks. It does explain all! Now I have to rethink my potting method and figure out how to calculate fertilizer ratio of 200 ppm.
HD here in Dallas Ttx frequently carries a couple that bloom on multiple spikes and for long periods of time.
Baldan's Kaleidoscope Golden Treasure
and another white an purple no name
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