What size electrical junction box fits a 1-inch diameter cable anyway?

Not enough to set up any significant galvanic corrosion from 18-8 or

I can show you pictures of a 40 year old salt water pontoon boat to show you both.

well, i can't show you pictures, but my boat had steel bolts through an Al tube, and i had to drill the bolt out, leaving an oversized eaten away hole. this is a boat that is used 95% in fresh water, sits in my yard in the AZ desert (low humidity), and sees salt water maybe once/year.

i use something for dissimilar metals every time i change out something now.

Judging by the cars out there, no.

Certainly the soft steel bolts stick like they're welded onto the aluminum of the motor! Proof is in the pictures prior.

So, would standard gray automotive anti-seize paste work to prevent this with the steel on aluminum?

Get TefGel. They have it online or at a decent boat store or hardware store. I doubt it is necessary on a pool pump tho if you have stainless bolts.

Two points to consider:

1. The answer is easy only when you already know the answer.
2. The rebuilder apparently put in the wrong bearings then.

The rebuilder, for $150, put in 6203D bearings, even though the manufacturer seems to specify 6203-2RS, the difference between a seal and a shield being great (one is a contact surface, the other isn't, which is a big deal for a bearing when things spin for hours every day):

But, now that I know the 6203D is the wrong bearing, and that the 6203-2RS is the right bearing, I do agree. The answer is now simple (now that I know the answer).

It's no longer technical. It's just a part number now.

As stated prior, everything is easy once you already know the answer. Until then, you need to be technical to find out the answer.

Here's the answer (as far as I know):

If that's correct, then it's just a list; and there's no need to be technical. However, if that's not correct (and it might not be), then I need to get technical again ... until the list is fleshed out.

At the moment, I am trying to figure out the o-ring trade names.

REPORT:

Here's the current factual report for proper rebuilding of such pumps: (Note: I have not figured out how to xref to the o-ring trade size yet.)

-----

----- AO Smith QC1102 1.65HP(net) motor: a. bearing, nitrile double sealed (not shielded), 6203-2RS (2) b. thru-bolt (4) 606202-071 1/4"hexhead, #8x32-1" 0.272" 9.375" (9 3/8") SS

----- Sta-Rite Max-e-glas II Pool Pump Repair Kit (GO-KIT38-9) c. 3/4" shaft seal 3/4" (Buna=37400-0027S, PS201)(Viton=37400-0028S, PS3868) d. seal plate o-ring (U9-228A; may be trade size O-113) e. pre1998: Insert o-ring U9-376 (may be trade size O-240) f. diffuser o-ring (U9-37A; may be trade size O-83) g. trap cover o-ring (U9-375; may be trade size O-12) h. drain plug o-ring (x2) U9-359 Note: The O-ring trade-size guesses are based on the Aladdin GO-KIT38-9.

Googling, for how TefGel differs from my basic automotive anti-seize, this explains the action of Ultra Safety Systems TefGel between aluminum and stainless steel:

Tefgel is apparently half PTFE with zero petroleum solvents to evaporate and no silicone or lanolin.

Apparently it works simply by filling voids, that stay filled, so that no electrolytes can touch the dissimilar metals.

Apparently the standard gray anti-seize contains "lanolin", at least according to this web site:

That would explain why you guys, who have more experience than I (I have none) suggest TefGel over the standard automotive stuff.

One question: If tefgel works on SS+AL, wouldn't it also work on the original plain old steel bolts into the aluminum motor housing?

I imagine it would.

You are right of course about knowing the answer, the comment was made as friendly advise. It is common for people new to a task to get too technical and ignore common sense or reasoning. Anyway whatever, you are on the way to the knowing part :-)

DDD-

You still don't.... Not bilingual?

It's spanish.... as in

Ay, caramba!

Google not working in your part of the world?

Thanks for that friendly advice.

The problem is compounded by the lack of details in the part number.

For example, I can get "buna" rubber O-240 o-rings for 50 cents each:

Or, I can pay $16 (on special!) for that o-ring at the pool supply store:

The problem is in knowledge.

For example, is the sixteen-dollar o-ring made out of the same buna rubber material as the fifty-cent o-ring?

I don't know. Do you? How can we tell?

Note: If we already know the material is the same, then it's not a technical problem; but if we don't know the material - one has to wonder whether you get what you pay for. That is, is a sixteen dollar o-ring the same material as a fifty-cent o-ring?

There's where it gets technical.

Danny,

Go here and note that the manufacturer's part no. is: AX6060S

Goggle for AX6060S and find this:

and this:

but, note that there are kits available, so goggle for ax6060s kit:

or a generic kit for $13 (post paid):

Might as well spring for a kit and throw in a new shaft seal and the recommended lube while we're at it.

Hope this helps,

pilgrim

That $16 O-ring represents the cost of the supply chain.

If you want to educate yourself to reasonable level about O-rings & O- ring material apps,' go to McMaster Carr catalog and search on O-rings.

If you REALLY want to learn about O-rings

Considering the duty go for the cheaper part, many of the pool shops will gouge your eyes out on parts that are quite often the same as those available elsewhere cheaply.