How does one disassemble needle nose pliers? Have a pair that is the worse
case of frozen I've seen. Got it unfrozen using various commercial solven
ts for this, but still impossible to operate by hand. Takes an adjustable w
rench on each handle to open and close (or an arbor press to close.
Have a pair that is the worse case of frozen
I've seen. Got it unfrozen using various
commercial solvents for this, but still
impossible to operate by hand. Takes an
adjustable wrench on each handle to open
and close (or an arbor press to close.
The ones I've owned were pressed together,
and cannot be dissembled. That said, some
times I have been able to spray the center
pivot with WD-40 or Castle Thrust, and
exercise the joint, spraying every couple
opening and closing. Be generous with the
spray, and some times the rust will lift
out. I'd seriously consider replace them,
rather than go through all that work.
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 03:06:13 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
I have had good results with PB Blaster penetrant. May take several
applications but usually 2 or 3 times works for me. Getting old and
forgetting to put things up causes rusted joints to appear.
Be sure to apply to jaw, handle and sides.
I expect that moisture has gotten into the joint in the pliers and
caused the two sides to rust.
I've come across this problem before with the hubs of snow blower
wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find
works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent
hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle
with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy).
Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves
the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on
the drive axle.
I find that muriatic acid dissolves the rust far more aggressively than
it does the steel. In fact, it appears to do nothing more than clean
the steel, but it definitely dissolves the rust.
Any masonary contractor will have muriatic acid if you don't feel the
need to buy a gallon or quart for yourself. If you give then a $5 bill
for their effort, I'm sure they'd give you enough to do the job. But,
bring your own plastic container.
And, of course, muriatic acid is about the strongest acid that's readily
available to consumers, so be careful with it.
Just for grins and giggles, I got the old fence
pliers, laying in he muddy gravel in front of my
trailer where I left them about three or four
years ago. I found my old jug of muriatic, and
poured some on. Then, I took a sandwich bag and
pour some in, and let that soak. Took them out,
and beat on em with a hammer, and used a cold
chisel right behind the pivot to put some separating
force. The joint loosened up a bit. Hit it with
hammer some more. Pour some more acid on,and work
it with muscle power. After a while the joint
loosened up, as free as the day it was born. I'm
thrilled and giggling, and thankful to the kind
people on this list.
I'm going to leave the pliers some where dry, over
night. and then lubricate with a couple drops of
Thank you Nestork, and anyone else who suggested.
It's been a long time since I was in chemistry
class. But, I don't remember detergents neutralizing
acid. Remove maybe, but not neutralize. To
neutralize,you need an alkalai, or a carbonate.
I think mean acid spill on concrete, not "concrete
spill". I know, splitting hairs.
A friend of mine had such a situation, maybe
20 years ago. I remember him offering me the
job of changing the impellor on his snow
thrower, and I didn't feel qualified.
Wish I'd known, then, what I do today.
sorry to bust your fantasy world, but i ain't never heard them called
anything but needle-nose for 50 years. no body i know calls them long
nose pliers. you're the first one.
A friend had a wheel rusted to a front axle. I think he's sold the car
by now, which is a shame because I'd love to try your remedy here.
Click and Clack recommended loosening the lug nuts and driving around.
Didn't get to do that either. It wouldn't work on a snow blower,
because you can't go fast enough.
Copy to him, for the next time.
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 12:32:02 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Easy to get HCL in gallon quantities at any box store that
also sells pool equipment (e.g., Home Depot, Lowes, etc.).
I've put LOTS of stuff in HCL, so, just be careful that you
pull it out earlier rather than later.
What's a good way to get rid of rain surface rust on tools left outside
etc. (many pictures in that thread)
Do they make a rubbery paint for chipped refrigerator wire racks?
As stated, Phosphoric acid (e.g., Naval Jelly) is also sold
in all the box stores, at about the same price for 16 ounces
as you pay for a gallon of HCL.
Both will remove rust. I'd try the phosphoric acid first,
and then, the brute force hydrochloric acid last.
When done, oil her up. Worked for me.
Naval jelly isn't likely to get anywhere near the rust in the joint.
Fortunately, phosphoric acid in liquid form comes in red cans marked Coca
Cola. Coke is a famously cheap rust remover.
No, I'd never use phosphoric acid to remove rust. Phosphoric acid
reacts with rust to form ferric phosphate, a black weak substance.
If you want to REMOVE the rust, then I'd just go with hydrochloric acid.
I don't know if hydrochloric acid will dissolve ferric phosphate, so it
might be a bit of a gamble using the phosphoric acid first. You may
then end up having to find something that'll dissolve the ferric
phosphate. By just going with the hydrochloric acid first, then you
know it'll dissolve any rust it encounters.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.