How does one disassemble needle nose pliers? Have a pair that is the worse case of frozen I've seen. Got it unfrozen using various commercial solven ts for this, but still impossible to operate by hand. Takes an adjustable w rench on each handle to open and close (or an arbor press to close.
You don't! You're done! (I would add MOST people refer to "long-nose pliers" as NNP...because it's cute~not because it's accurate)
Have a pair that is the worse case of frozen I've seen. Got it unfrozen using various commercial solvents for this, but still impossible to operate by hand. Takes an adjustable wrench on each handle to open and close (or an arbor press to close.
The ones I've owned were pressed together, and cannot be dissembled. That said, some times I have been able to spray the center pivot with WD-40 or Castle Thrust, and exercise the joint, spraying every couple opening and closing. Be generous with the spray, and some times the rust will lift out. I'd seriously consider replace them, rather than go through all that work.
You might try this,
I have had good results with PB Blaster penetrant. May take several applications but usually 2 or 3 times works for me. Getting old and forgetting to put things up causes rusted joints to appear. Be sure to apply to jaw, handle and sides.
Frank: I expect that moisture has gotten into the joint in the pliers and caused the two sides to rust.
I've come across this problem before with the hubs of snow blower wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy). Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on the drive axle.
I find that muriatic acid dissolves the rust far more aggressively than it does the steel. In fact, it appears to do nothing more than clean the steel, but it definitely dissolves the rust.
Any masonary contractor will have muriatic acid if you don't feel the need to buy a gallon or quart for yourself. If you give then a $5 bill for their effort, I'm sure they'd give you enough to do the job. But, bring your own plastic container.
And, of course, muriatic acid is about the strongest acid that's readily available to consumers, so be careful with it.
I had, years ago, an old pair of country boy's fence pliers. I may try this, if I still have them.
On 4/10/2014 10:38 AM, nestork wrote: ...
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You've rediscovered the wheel... :)
pliers" as NNP...because it's cute~not because it's accurate)
sorry to bust your fantasy world, but i ain't never heard them called anything but needle-nose for 50 years. no body i know calls them long nose pliers. you're the first one.
Drill it out. Re-bolt. Ugly? yes.
A friend had a wheel rusted to a front axle. I think he's sold the car by now, which is a shame because I'd love to try your remedy here.
Click and Clack recommended loosening the lug nuts and driving around. Didn't get to do that either. It wouldn't work on a snow blower, because you can't go fast enough.
Copy to him, for the next time.
Well, I did re-bolt a very large pair of water pump pliers. I found the two halves already separated in the trash barrel at a gas station. It's worked fine on an occasional basis for 5 years now.
I have and I'm 68...it may be regional though. Still, both are long-nose and one is needle-nose!
Easy to get HCL in gallon quantities at any box store that also sells pool equipment (e.g., Home Depot, Lowes, etc.).
I've put LOTS of stuff in HCL, so, just be careful that you pull it out earlier rather than later. What's a good way to get rid of rain surface rust on tools left outside
Do they make a rubbery paint for chipped refrigerator wire racks?
As stated, Phosphoric acid (e.g., Naval Jelly) is also sold in all the box stores, at about the same price for 16 ounces as you pay for a gallon of HCL.
Both will remove rust. I'd try the phosphoric acid first, and then, the brute force hydrochloric acid last.
When done, oil her up. Worked for me.
Danny,
Naval jelly isn't likely to get anywhere near the rust in the joint. Fortunately, phosphoric acid in liquid form comes in red cans marked Coca Cola. Coke is a famously cheap rust remover.
Dave M.
No, I'd never use phosphoric acid to remove rust. Phosphoric acid reacts with rust to form ferric phosphate, a black weak substance.
If you want to REMOVE the rust, then I'd just go with hydrochloric acid. I don't know if hydrochloric acid will dissolve ferric phosphate, so it might be a bit of a gamble using the phosphoric acid first. You may then end up having to find something that'll dissolve the ferric phosphate. By just going with the hydrochloric acid first, then you know it'll dissolve any rust it encounters.
HCl will remove the rust but be sure to neutralize it and rinse completely off when your done. If it remains in prolonged contact with iron & steel it will cause quicker rusting later.
I have nothing against HCL, and, the record shows, I use it all the time - but - anyone who hasn't used it should be cautioned as to how powerful that stuff is.
I left some copper hose components in a bucket of the stuff, for example, only a few minutes, and they were holed beyond use.
I thought one was a needle nose and the other a needler nose.
A lot of tools and other things can have their rust removed with a wire wheel, in place of a grindstone on a bench grinder. It works quickly, leaves a beautful finish. Most things look as if they were new (I'm not saying like new, like they themselves looked like when they were new, because they might have been shiny) but they look beautiful
And it's a one-step process. BE SURE TO WEAR GOGGLES BECAUSE THE WIRES DO COME OUT OF THE WHEEL WHILE IT SPINS. ONE OF THEM ACTUALLY STUCK ITSELF IN SKIN, IN MY FOREHEAD. DIDN'T SHOW BLOOD WHEN I PULLED IT OUT, BUT WOULDN'T WANT TO DO THAT WITH MY EYE.
Even wood things might look great after time on the wheel. I did have some problem with a saw blade, that seemed thicker than originally when I was done. Maybe that was that particular blade and others would come out fine.
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