After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water tank
tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from wall for tank
to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with an attached flange
so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure properly and have additional
space for the water tank to fit.. This is a existing concrete floor with an
existing workable flange. Just need the extra space. How do I get extra space
or What should I use to create this extra needed space so I can attach water
tank to toilet and finish my project.
I agree with Oren on everything except the terminology. Oren says that
different toilets come with different "offsets", and I call those
The rough-in is the distance from the middle of the toilet's drain pipe
to the surface of the finished wall. Nowadays, most toilets are made to
fit a 12 inch rough-in. However, most toilet companies will make
toilets that fit a 10 inch rough-in and some will make toilets that fit
a 14 inch rough-in. In your case, you probably removed a toilet that
had a 10 inch rough-in, and you replaced it with one with a 12 inch
rough-in, and now you're discovering that it won't fit properly. If you
return the new toilet you have for a refund, and buy a toilet with a 10
inch rough-in, you should be OK.
As I did a Google search for "standard rough-in", I came across this
page on e-Bay listing a fair number of brand new toilets that are made
with a 10 inch rough-in:
'10\" Rough in Toilet | eBay'
Also, now that you have the toilet out, it's a good idea to paint the
area directly behind where the toilet tank will be with several coats of
interior oil based primer, which you still should be able to buy,
followed by a couple of coats of Zinsser's Perma-White Bathroom Paint.
The primer will be impervious to moisture, and you need that in the
small gap between the toilet tank and the wall behind. Without that oil
based primer, any condensation that accumulates on the wall behind the
toilet tank will seep into the plaster or drywall and cause water damage
to the wall there. Painting with an alkyd primer prevents the moisture
from being absorbed into the plaster or drywall, and thereby prevents
that water damage.
There are toilet flanges that have an offset. Can you remove the current f
lange from the drain pipe and use an offset flange? Any reasonable plumbin
g supply house will have offset flanges. You could also replace the 2x4 in
the wall behind the toilet with 2x2 and refinish the wall to create a tiny
alcove if the offset flange does not give you enough offset.
There are two toilet models. Most common is a 12" rough in, meaning
finish wall to center of floor opening is 12". There are 10" rough in
units that should be readily available. The other recourse would be to
remove the existing floor flange and get and install an offset floor flange:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html . As far as I know
these only come as
1 " and 1 1/2" offsets.
"WW" wrote in message
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
-- Some one using my site. The REAL WW
As has already been explained, you needed a toilet to fit a shorter
rough-in space. If you can't get a toilet to fit the smaller area
right away, and need a toilet right now, you can probably make do by
installing a smaller tank, one sized for the confined spaces in RVs
and mobile homes. Odds are it will fit.
On Thursday, April 10, 2014 at 7:44:01 PM UTC-4, WW wrote:
I have issue with 36 yr old Eljer Touch Flush. I have put up with 3 in the
house for 30 yrs. I am too cheap to replace. The internal tank parts are ga
rbage. I keep several repair kits on the shlf.
Now master plumbers, I found the tank bolts had rotted away when one droppe
d to the floor.
I did not pull tank and rplace the gasket. When I got done tightening the b
olts the da-- tank is now 1/8" from the wall. So, since I didn't disturb th
e tank why is it now closer to the wall. I'm thinking the original plumber
put it together, found the offset a bit close and left slack in the tank so
it would len forward. Great workmanship found out after 30 yr. So, do I le
ave tank loos?
On Mon, 13 Apr 2015 18:01:33 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
You cant move the flange if it's in concrete. (not affordably anyhow).
You'll just have to get another toilet that fits. I worked as a plumber,
and I ran into that a few times. There is no way to offset the tank,
unless you want to mount the tank on the wall, and run a pipe down (like
they used to do in the early 1900's).
Your other option would be to move the wall a few inches (if it's wood
and plaster, not concrete). Or, I have worked at a few places where
they moved the part of the wall back, (just behind the toilet), by
removing the plaster narrowing the width of the studs, then applying
sheetrock. But that is all a lot of work. Just buy a toilet that fits
On 4/13/2015 8:01 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Or you need to measure the rough-in from the wall to the sewer pipe,
and this time purchase a toilet that fits that rough-in. Current
toilets generally use a 12-inch rough-in, but older homes frequently
have a 10-inch rough-in. Not every store stocks non-standard toilets,
but you can special order them if necessary. Your other option, if
this is a two-piece toilet, is to purchase a slim-sized tank for
tight/small spaces and attach that to your existing base. Been there,
There are offset flanges available. They are usually 2" and, I think,
were designed to adapt 14" (wall to waste pipe) toilets to 12" and vice
versa. I used one in a very small powder room where the toilet was
deliberately put in a place so that the door would clear when opening
inward. I changed the door to a pocket door and re-did the cabinets.
In order to "fit" the cabinets, I needed to move the toilet 2" to the
right, basically away towards the door. Unfortunately, the floor was
concrete. I figured it wouldn't be too bad to chisel way a few inches,
however, I eventually had to rent an electric power jack hammer. It
took only about 5 minutes and the job was done. Next the cast iron pipe
needed to be cut about 2" inches shorter (below the floor surface) to
make room for the flange. I used a router with a 2 or 3 inch cutting
wheel on an extension. Because this kludge wasn't rated to be run at
router speed, I used a variac to slow it down. Again it didn't take too
long and it was done. The new flange was inserted with a rubber seal
ring and the floor was patched with concrete. Way too much work, but I
was younger at the time and the whole remodel looked fabulous.
On 4/14/2015 4:35 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Years ago, a coworker of mine hired a handyman to replace her toilet.
The handyman failed to check out the existing toilet/bathroom first.
He replaced a round bowl commode with an elongated model. Problem was
just as you've described - it was next to the door, so now the door
hit the rim of the new toilet. The handyman's solution: he cut a slot
in the door at the level of the bowl.
And that, folks, is an example of how hiring a handyman can be a
Before I became a plumber, I worked as a handyman. That is how I got the
plumbing job. But anyhow, I would have never considered doing such a
thing. I always did things right. In fact I got a few customers wanting
me to do a half assed slop job, thinking it would be cheaper. I would
explain that it would NOT be cheaper, if I had to use junky materials or
patch together a faucet that was clearly overdue for replacement, and so
on. If they insisted on getting a slop job, I usually told them to find
someone else to do the work. I had plenty of work, and did not need to
do jobs which would cause me problems. Doing a half assed job only
invites callbacks, and then they expect the callback work for free.
Anyhow, like everything, there are good and bad workers as well as their
But yea, I did see more than one door cut to fit around a toilet, and
more than once I was called just to do something about this issued by a
new home owner who bought the house with the cut away door. I recall one
where there was no way to get a toilet that would fit, so after
discussing this with the owner, the solution was to replace the door and
frame, and make the door open outwards, which worked fine.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.