I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
to put the hardwood nose on it.
Some web site I visited suggested to cut the nose with a
circular saw. But I did some cutting with a cheap ($40) Sears
Craftsman circular saw before,and I never cut anything straight,
both horizontally and vertically. I wonder if it would make a
difference with a more expensive one. And I would avoid to use
the circular saw if I can.
Would a cheap reuter or recip saw cut the 1" ply nose? I don't
have much experience with wordwork. But I can't find a contractor
just doing that.
I may also need that tool for a sink cutout on the kitchen counter.
Thanks for any help.
Of the tools you mentioned, the circ saw with a rip guide, sharp blade and
slow motion will cut the straightest line. I take it these are open stairs?
I ask because a circ saw is going to stop cutting about 1.25" from a
perpendicular wall or obstruction.
The stair I have is not open. There are stringers on both sides.
Aside from being a bit nervious on circular saw, I am also concerned
that I might cut into a riser below when cutting the nose off.
Do a good curcular saw ($100+) and the cheap one I have ($40) make big
difference for this job? What is the difference between them anyway?
Every power tool I can think of will stop cutting when the body of the runs
into the side of the stairs. A good circular saw is a good choice; forget the
You could rough cut it with the cheap circular saw & then finish up with a
flush cutting router bit that has bearing to guide against the lower riser.
You still have to contend with the "un-cut" section at each end of the tread.
Sharp chisel & patience could do the end work. How many treads? 12?
since you're covering the treads with flooring, could you pull out the treads &
rip the nose off on a table saw & re-install?
rough cut it, then shape using a belt sander. they make sanders that can get
very close to edges (using a very small front roller). be prepared for an
immense amount of dust.
cave creek, az
I am dealing with a ply stair, so I can't chisel. Sanding out that last
part is not easy, I guess.
What I was thinking is use a drill bit (drill saw) and cut through the
parts near the stringers. Then sand off the rough part.
I have 12 treads. This is a stair to the basement.If this is successful,
I'll try to rip out the carpet on the stair leading to the upper floor,
and put the hardwood in.
What kind of router do you think I should get, considering this is one
or two time job? I am still trying to avoid using a circular saw for
Do you think 5/16" hardwoord at:
is a good choice for stair?
Bosch makes a real nice flush trimming saw....
(Amazon.com product link shortened)00815063/sr=1-23/ref=sr_1_23/104-5461938-0912743?v=glance&s=hi
I love the thing, it can boldly go where no saw has gone before. Although
i've never tried it on stair nosing, it has been used to cut hundreds of
factory interior window sills out to make way for our custom sills. Nice
cuts flush to the jamb. I use it for undercutting casing / doorjambs to
make way for tile or hardwood floors to. Check it out, it's a
The blades are about $10 and do last a while- I can cut about 40+
windowsills out before replacing it. Although, being a fine thin kerfed
blade they are somewhat like a Japanese pull saw in the fact that one nail
can really do some damage to the teeth in short order. Get a few extra
blades when you find them. They are not the easiest things to find (at
least in my area) --dave
Thanks. The reason I was asking is that one of the local stores sells the
blades for $18 and at that price I'd hope they last a while. I always shop
local if I can but sometimes the stores get a bit greedy.
replying to mp, Keith wrote:
The cheapest and best way I've found is : either borrow or buy a sawsall with a
course blade. Cut in the middle of the riser and angle your saw to the right or
left which ever you want to start, and just follow your stair tread to the end,
now, when you get to the end bring the handle DOWN slowly and use the tip or end
of the blade to finish the cut. Then turn around and do the same on the other
end of the nose. Don't make something simple hard. IF you move away from your
riser a little you can trim it closer with the sawzall OR use you circular saw
to trim it flush.
replying to mp, Keith wrote:
The best way I've found, is borrow or buy a sawzall with a course wood cutting
blade, look at the face of the overhang and make a cut toward the riser and
angle your cut left or right which ever way your starting untill you come to the
riser and follow it to the end or as close as you can get, then lower the handle
of your saw and use the tip of the blade to finish the cut. Then turn around and
do the same of the other half of the nose. Don't worry yourself if your not
completely flush with the riser, you can go back either with you sawzall,
circular saw or jigsaw and flush it up, by then you'll be able to see exactly
how much to take off to make things flush. I would start at the bottom step so
if there is a small mistake it won't be noticeable.
replying to someone, Ed M wrote:
How about if you first scribe a line where you want to make your cut, nail a
temporary straight edge to the tread as a circular saw guide. Slowly lower your
circular saw onto the cutting line and cut as far as you can toward the wall.
Finish the cut with an oscillating tool.
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