The original instructions for my electric chain saw said to use SAE 30
oil for temps under 75 degrees F, and SAE40 for temps over that**.
It's a Remington 16 inch, 10.5 amps, and iirc 2.5 HP.
But they sell bar and chain oil. The label says it "contains a
tackiness additive to help oil stay on chainsaw bars and chains". Do I
have to use that, or can I use some straight 30 weight that I already
have? Does it make a difference that I use this saw very very little,
or that I bought it at a yard sale for cheap?
Can I use an electric, or gas, chainsaw to cut T-11 siding, or other
Thanks a lot.
**And SAE20 for temps under 32 iirc.
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.
Oil has various properties which are listed on the packaging. Your
owner's manual should describe the oil to be used. As an example they might
recommend non-detergent 30 SAE, API. You can, of course, ignore these
recommendations but if it breaks blame yourself. I don't know what T-11
siding is but chainsaws are meant to cut wood in a rough fashion so if T-11
is wood and a rough, chipped cut is ok. Any pawn shop will have a selection
of circular saws and sabre saws though
I'm surprised Remington's instructions are so finicky! I've never
owned an electric chainsaw, but I can't imagine that they would be
more demanding gas saws--of which I own two, a small, 30 year old
Stihl (still runs fine) and a newer and larger Husqvarna.
There was a period of several years that I had trouble finding
bar-and-chain oil for the Stihl and so simply used whatever oil I was
putting in my automobiles at the time. Seemed to work fine.
I dunno what "T-11" is either, but guessing it's some sort of
wood-glue-resin kinda product, it might be pretty hard on the chain,
sharpness-wise. But, heck, people use chainsaws to dig trenches (with
Add me to the list. I also have no idea what T-11 is ????
However, I only use electric chainsaws. The gas ones never start, so
screw them,,,,, The chain on an electric CS is exactly the same thing
as the ones on the gas saws, except usually shorter. Treat them the
samw way. Bar -Chain oil is better, but in a pinch, plain motor oil
works, just shoot a little more of it on the chain, because it goes
away faster. I cut any and all kinds of wood, whether trees, or
lumber. But, DO NOT cut plywood, particle board, or any non-wood
things. They will dull the chain. Use a sawsall for that stuff.
And, of course, hitting a nail WILL ruin the chain.
On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 13:27:33 -0800, John W. Wells
This is Turtle.
30 Weight oil goes in your lawn mower and Chain Saw Bar Oil goes on the chain
saw bar. Bar Oil usely is about a 90 weight gear oil of some type.
I can be wrong here by saying this but 30 weight oil does not belong on a chain
saw Bar. If you do this then you might use WD-40 in your lawn mower as oil.
Now I only use gas saws and electric might be a different story but I dought it.
I sometimes use light hydralic fluid for my chainsaw bars when it's much
below zero outside. When it's not so cold, I use Bar and Chain Oil. I
think in extremely cold weather you're supposed to thin the bar and
chain oil with a little bit of kerosene, but I've got a big jug of
hydralic fluid to use up and it seems to work OK.
Turtle, most of your advice is right on, but in this case it isn't.
Bar oil is nowhere near 90 weight based on how it pours, more like
10W-40. and it has some heavy duty stick-um in it so they probably
start with 30 or 20 weight.
Even transmission fluid with a little Motor Honey works well, but any
mixture of oils with Motor Honey that pours about like 30 or 40
weight will work.
But you could probably use 90 weight if you have the money.
This is Turtle.
After the education on Viscosty of the chain oil. It can be 5 weight but when
you pour it out it is very thick like 90 weight gear oil and maybe like 50/50
mix of STP and 20 weight oil. What ever the weight of it is , it's very thick to
stick to the chain and bar so well. ALSO
The Log Haulers and log cutters don't or will not use 20-W-40 motor oil for it
will let the bar burn up when cutting a long time and getting hot. They run the
saws 6 to 8 hour a day running just about all the time and the bar's will start
to ridge up on the slide of the chain with plain motor oil. The Bar gets hot and
will start to heat up to a point where it will eat the ridge out of the bar with
the plain motor oil. With plain motor oil the bar will last you about a week and
if you use bar oil you can get 3 months out of a Bar. Here is Louisiana they
don't get to cut in cold weather for it will stay in the 90's to above 100ēF all
summer. All winter it stays in the 60's to 80'sēF . In cold weather you might
get away with motor oil but not when it is hot and running it all day.
Yes My Brother in law is a *** Flate head. He drives a Oil tanker truck now and
said he was tired of getting hit in the head by trees.
*** Flate Head --- A person who cuts logs for a living and has had a lot of
trees fall on their head and their head is flate on top.
My small engine repair teacher told us all that the official chain saw bar
oil is far superior to straight weights. Sticky, and stays on the bar
instead of flying off the handle (sorry).
I've used a chainsaw to saw packing skids. But have to be very careful not
to hit nails, the chain will dull nearly instantly.
Use any 30 weight oil, but you should add some the old motor additives
such as STP or Motor Honey. Considering that Wall Mart sell as gallon
of chainsaw oil for less than 3 dollars, that seems to be a good bet.
The motor Honey will probably cost $2 plus for a small container.
Yes you can cut any plywood type siding, but the cut will be very
rough with a chain saw. If you are installing T1-11, a circular saw
would be highly preferred.
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