I quit soldering connections in the late 70's
In the 30 years I was crimping there were no problems. (Other than my very first time.)
OTOH: Guys in the shop sometimes soldered and got the contacts contaminated...and the connector would eventually melt due to the heat.
The only time we used a foot-operated hydraulic crimper was in a nuclear power plant when we used 300mcm cables.
Normally 4/0 was the max. we'd deal with.
Again, depends on the application. I jes replaced all the battery cables on my 6V golf cart. Severe corrosion where the stranded heavy gage cables crimp into the battery lugs necessitated it. The new one's are the same thing, so will probably encounter the same problem eventually. I suspect this construction is more about economy than effectiveness. Why waste money on solder when crimp will do, in the short term. I helped one lady with a bad golf cart cable. She was trying to crimp on a new lug, but had no proper crimper. I soldered it.
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Per snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz:
The comment Clare@Snyder.... made about solder wicking back up the wire and stiffening it rings true to me - because that's where the two failures I've experienced happened: about a quarter inch up the wire from the actual joint.
If we're going to quibble about the practices of a single manufacturer, then perhaps it's also worth noting that Cat has only been producing on-highway trucks since 2011. And while I have not professionally worked on their construction equipkment in over 30 years, and only rarely see a Caterpillar engine in my current job (Mostly Mack, Navistar, Cummins, DDA/Sterling & Freightliner BTW) I can guarantee you that the Cat connectors I have personally seen and worked on have all been crimped, not soldered.
Back in the old days it was common to grease such connections... no harm in carrying on that old tradition or spraying with anti-corrosion compound.
I missed writing "solder" after the word "silver". Silver solder has a higher conductivity than regular solder but you need to use some heat shrink for a strain relief for when the wire is bent at a sharp angle at the connector. ^_^
TDD
Well, if we're going to quibble, one would think it prudent to notice the phrase "except where solder will prevent the terminal from seating properly in its' housing" I had in my reply.
So, your point is?
Yeah. I always carry a can in my back pocket. 8|
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I was taught that soldering is far better than crimp. What's your
I always solder them if expect them to be around moisture and always use heat-shrink tubing for a strain relief then I use dielectric silicone grease in the connector to prevent corrosion. I've never had a problem with wires breaking in those circumstances. I have had soldered wires break off circuit boards when they're bent at a sharp angle a few times. ^_^
TDD
A "good" crimp CAN be a virtual weld.
It's all part of AC43.13-1b
Let's see your guarantee in print. Future son-in-law is Cat srvice specialist. Original wiring harnesses are crimped.
That must be virtually EVERY connection. They DO solder where wires connect to printed circuit boards in housings - where the wire is restrained by a strain relief. Even in-harness connections are crimped and not soldered.
Easier to carry than a soldering iron big enough to solder a battery terminal, and a roll of solder - - - - -
With a "proper" tool (which the cheap-asses crimper that comes in $7 kit) you will get an adequate connection with a little care. With a cheap-assed tool it takes a bit more care, but it is still possible.
I was taught that soldering is far better than crimp.
I've taken a lot of military surplus and aerospace electronic equipment apart and the soldered connector pins always had heat-shrink tubing on them as a strain relief but the wiring harnesses were always designed so wires were not pulled at a 90° angle. ^_^
TDD
That's why I use low temperature silver solder and clean any flux off afterwards even if it's noncorrosive flux. ^_^
TDD
You can use low temp silver, if you don't nick the wire while stripping it.
I had a roll of solder and Bernz torch back at the house. Fresh outta anti-corrosion spray. Besides, the real problem was lack of crimpers. All she had was a pair of channel locks. I also didn't have a crimper large enough. The solder worked fine.
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The larger crimp connectors I've used on power cables have grease in them to fight corrosion. Of course they are cu/al rated and the grease in the connectors is oxide inhibiting compound for the aluminum wire but it also helps the copper wire connections. ^_^
TDD
TDD
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