On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 19:08:06 -0500, Stormin Mormon
The way I read the article he's talking about ONLY crimp versus ONLY
solder. Not crimp first then solder, which is what I do if I'm
looking for a belt and suspenders solution. That said, I've read in
the past that a PROPERLY crimped connection does not need to be
soldered, the kind of crimp powerful crimping machines can make in a
manufacturing facility. The crimps I do at home, even with a decent
hand crimper tool, I don't consider the same quality as a factory
crimp. But many of those home crimps have lasted years and years with
Correct, that's exactly what the article is about.
A properly crimped connection doesn't need to be soldered if that
joint will never be stressed, if that joint will never be subjected to
moisture or vibration, if that joint will not be subjected to a
corrosive environment, if that joint is in a terminal that solder will
prevent the terminal from seating properly in its' housing, if that
There are a few more if's but I think you get the point. The biggest
"if" is being properly crimped. Unless it is done under controlled
conditions that will frequently not happen.
In the harnesses I designed for earth moving equipment for about 30
years all connections were crimped and soldered except the joints that
solder would prevent the terminal from seating properly in its'
housing. And that is exactly what I still do at home.
I use crimp on lugs (up to about 14 gage stranded) so
it's a decision I get to make. Most of the time, I
am not near a soldering iron. It's good to hear that
properly done crimps are as good or better. Thanks to
all who took the time to reply.
On my winter bike - equipped with an electric motor - I've got 4 crimped
Anderson connectors and four solder joints.
Over five years, the solder joints have failed twice but the crimped
connectors have given no problems.
OTOH, that's just failure. The efficiency of transmission has got to
be a whole other issue - which I have no clue about.
Again done correctly, the crimp will have almost no differance than a single
piece of wire. The solder will have a very small ammount of resistance.
Probably did not come out the way I want it to, but the crimp will have less
resistance than a soldered joint.
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That's why a proper soldered joint is first crimped. Solder holds and
seals the connection. That's the way I was taught.
I can make some pretty poor soldering at times, but I can also use proper
technique. I passed a NASA soldering school class.
Who says a solder connection does not need proper strain relief to prevent
I have soldered large battery cables using hundreds of watts, as well as
1.5 mm caps to boards.
I only solder them when they really need it. Otherwise, I use my
ratcheting crimp tool and crimp the insulated connection and cable grip.
The more expensive connectors have a metal sleeve under the cable grip
If you looked at crimp vs solder over the whole spectrum, you'd find the
soldered connection to become 'noisy' with time. ...having variable
resistance. Not too noticeable if you're powering a motor, because who
cares if the connection comes and goes once in a while?
Solder will actually cause more problems than it solves (for properly
crimped connectors). Solder will wick up into multi-strand wire and
cause the wire to break at that point, under flex (work hardening).
They don't need to be machines. Hand crimpers work fine for smaller
connectors. The ratcheting type are best.
Sure but adding solder doesn't solve anything if the crimp is good.
On Sun, 29 Dec 2013 11:08:04 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Putting aside vibration issues, I've always viewed the solder as
insurance against corrosion. I have found crimps that were bad due to
corrosion when used in exposed to weather areas. Never found a
problem when they were soldered in such use.
On Mon, 30 Dec 2013 20:49:56 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
No matter how perfect the crimp is it won't keep moisture out of the
joint area. The edges of the metals are exposed, the corrosion starts
there and works it's way back eating away at the metals. Just look at
all the corroded battery cables that are crimped into the battery
clamps, eventually the stuff corrodes away.
I've had far far more failed crimps from corrosion in exposed to
weather areas then wires breaks from any cause. In fact, the only
wire breaks I've had were on crimped and NOT soldered connections.
I've never had a crimped AND soldered connection fail. YMMV.
My guess, a crimp would work best on a single wire. Little strands do not
get pinched together enough inside the bundle, and corrosion keeps wicking
I never saw a wire wrap fail, but I never saw them used in poor
I've crimped really small contacts where soldering would take too long, and
be impossible to prevent wicking. The crimpers also sometimes cost several
hundred dollars. I'll admit, sometimes crimps are better. There is the
other case, often on home appliances. The wires and crimps, and slide on
connectors, get warm, then hotter, then literally burn off. The crimp will
fail as well as turning the slide on contacts, brittle falling apart.
In a home appliance that has a heating element, you don't use standard
lugs or Faston connectors, you must use the high temperature connectors
on the high temperature wire meant for heating element connections. Even
those can burn off if the connection is not clean and the Faston
connectors and lugs are not tight. The high temp connectors are made of
nickle instead of tin plated copper. ^_^
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