Crimps or connector blocks?

Oct 01, 2019 Last reply: 6 years ago 10 Replies

I have just got a like-for-like replacement ACK42 (230V) window actuator for the conservatory to replace the faulty one. The old one is wired to the control unit by insulated (red) crimps. The wiring is inside 25 x



16mm pvc mini-trunking, and the actuator is self-supporting, being screwed to a bracket.

I do not have an any experience of crimping. The example ratchet crimper mentioned in the DIYWiki is OOS at TLC. Other cheapish ratchet crimpers from Screwfix, Toolstation, etc often seem to get poor reviews when used with thinner wire and red crimps. I don't really want to lay out on a pro-grade crimper for this one-off job, so wondered what other options are available. It seems to me it comes down to connector blocks or soldering, either of which I would be happy to do. But what about using shrinkfit insulation after making the connection? It will definitely be needed for a soldered connection, but is it required for a connector block?


The flat plier like crimpers are perfectly ok for one off red or blue crimps.

Wago connectors

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I was going to suggest that too, provided there is room.

I have to go to TLC today to get some heatshrink sleeving, and will get a pack of Wago 222-412 and 773-102 at the same time. As noted, whether or not they will fit inside 16mm high mini-trunking is something I will find out! The other issue is whether or not the actuator wiring is suitable for a Wago 773 (which is more likely to fit inside the trunking than a 222) - it's stranded - but whether or not it's AWG 14 - 12 I couldn't say. Anyway, I'm sure I'll find a use for the Wago connectors even if they are not suitable.

The newer 221 series are slimmer than the 222

Thanks - they look perfect! I hadn't scrolled down far enough on the TLC Wago page.

Note that they aren't actually Wago connectors - they just look very similar. Personally I'd prefer to stick with the real McCoy.

The Wago 221s were perfect, and fitted nicely inside the mini-trunking.

I connected everything up, leaving the lead length as supplied, screwed the actuator in place, and turned it on. It blew the 5A fuse in the switched spur. :-(

I checked everything, but could find no reason the fuse blew. I replaced it, and tried again. It worked perfectly this time. :-)))

No idea why the fuse blew. I've since manually switched it to open/close several times, all without problem. All that's left now is to cut the wires to the correct length and tidy up.

I see TS are new selling another style of not-wago connectors, useful for joining 3-core cables

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They look handy!

I've always wondered why Wago don't make anything like this. Wagos are great, but they can end up taking up far more space than they need to when all you want to do is join two multi-core cables together.

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