What are the types of button batteries you most stock?
Over time I have in my old battery box mostly these four sizes cr2032 cr2025 ag13 ag10
Based on collecting old batteries those are the most often replaced by me. What about you?
The AG13 threw me -- I call them LR44. I don't think I have anything that uses AG10.
I didn't want to list all the numbers because they're all x referenced. Like you I buy them online in the 10 pack sizes when I need one.
Those are the 4 types that found their way into my recycling box. There are also 9V, AA, AAA, C & D sizes in that to be recycled box.
That makes it about 10 battery types I think we most need to replace cr2025 (3v lithium) cr2032 (3v lithium) ag10 (1.5v alkaline) ag13 (1.55v silver oxide) AA (1.5v alkaline) AAA (1.5v alkaline) C (1.5v alkaline) D (1.5v alkaline)
9V (9v alkaline)Making things a bit harder as you said the AG10 goes by a bunch of names (SG10, 390, 189, LR113, SR1130, SR1130, V389, LR54, LR1130) as does the AG13(357, LR44, A76, SR44, 303, EXP76, LR1144, SR44S).
I'm not sure why so many names but they're all the same I think.
I go through 2 #312 batteries about every 4 days so I can hear what's going on. Add the 2016 to the list as well -
I prefer the 4 digit designation. That is the actual dimension in MM. (CR2032 is a "C" (the system, Lithium battery with an Organic electrolyte and a Manganese dioxide anode), "R"ound 20mm in diameter and 3.2mm thick) Those proprietary model numbers are pretty useless without a cheat sheet.
I use AAA in quite a few things, flashlights, headlamps, remotes, and so forth. The GPS takes AA. I used to use rechargeables but I got lazy. D's are for the Grundig shortwave and a couple of old Maglites. C is the odd one out. I just had to get 4 for a 1000 lumen flashlight.
There is a weird one in the rangefinder that seldom needs replacing so I don't keep one on hand either.
Depends on what sort of devices you've got, eh what?
My rule on AAA is different I think since they usually cost about the same as AA but deliver half the power. So I avoid AA "if I can."
The "if I can" part is that I don't buy anything that uses AAA batteries that didn't need to be designed for AAA batteries. Things like clocks, headlamps, hand held flashlights (not tiny penlights of course), etc.
I understand that AAA is useful "sometimes" like when they need higher voltage in a small size (but that's also what 9V batteries are for, as a 9V battery is just a set of six AAAA batteries strung along in series inside).
It turns out that very few things are so small that they must have AAA.
I also have plenty of rechargeables (some even nicad batteries from the olden days) and corresponding chargers for them but the voltage is slightly lower for most rechargeables and rechargeable batteries don't seem to last as long in low current situations (but rechargeables usually put out high current when that's what we need due to their low internal resistance).
Like you I can't completely avoid C sized batteries but I still try to.
My logic on C is the same as my logic on AAA which is they cost about the same as do D but at less than the capacity of D so I avoid buying any device that is designed to use C that instead could have been designed to use D.
In practice it's easier to avoid AAA than it is to avoid C in my experience but I still try to avoid C in favor of D as a matter of principle.
Like you I have some devices which seldom need their battery to be replaced.
I have a couple of those 18" diameter lacrosse wall clocks that use a single AA battery which seems to lasts just about forever (something like a year or more) even as it constantly calls in to a GPS time station to automatically set the time. I don't know how it works so long on that single AA especially since it has a seconds hand which is always moving but it's like magic.
Overall I think we need to keep about 10 different types of batteries on stock where I generally try to get the standard sizes in bulk when they're on sale but I have to order the button sizes and sometimes I need to add a few things to get the order to be high enough for free shipping.
That's kind of why I was asking also so that I could keep a list of the standard button sizes to order when I need to get to the free shipping.
I don't know which are the non proprietary numbers for the AG10 & AG13.
If I assume the LR numbers are the non proproprietary ones is the AG10 non proprietary number the LR1130 & the AG13 the LR1144?
Given many have 4 digits how can I tell which is the non proprietary number?
The clocks don't "call in". The US government broadcasts a continuous time signal which the clock listens to.
Not all the same - CR is Lithium / manganese dioxide, SR is silver / silver Oxide, and LR is Alkaline / manganese Dioxide. MR and NR were Mercury Zinc batteries and are no longer made / sold. An S onthe end indicates sodiumHydroxide electrolyte - a P would be PottasiumHydroxide. A W suffix would be a high drain, and an SW a slow drain - like a quartz watch battery application. Depending on the application one or the other may outlast the others by as much as a factor of 10.
Generally speaking aaa is significantly more expensive on both a per unit and per power unit basis. - and try finding aaa batteries in some parts of the world!!! Then there is the aaa battery - what a pain to finf them, and OUCH!!! at the price!. $11.00 for 2 on Amazon - and as much as $9.50 a piece retail.
Some are - others are a stack of buttons
There are those little kinda half aaa 12 volters - A23 or LR23A in garage door openers and remote doorbell buttons. They come in 2 packs and by the time the installed one is dead, so is the "spare"
A relative of mind with kids discovered that... once you have children, you find plenty of toys and other items that yes, use C cells...
The standard for the button batteries is LR or CR or whatever and 4 digits - the first letter designates the chemistry, the R stands for rounf, the 20 in a 2016 means 20mm diameter and the 16 means 1.5mm thick - so a 2025 is 20X2.5, an 2032 is 20X3.2 and a 1612 is 16X1.2mm The "buttons" have standard type numbers - like AG 10 and 12 - where an AG12 is thicker than an AG10
The heavy hitters here are the AA and AAA. I buy them in the big pack at Costco.
Huh. We don't even think about that when we buy stuff. Other features are much more important than the type of battery the gadget takes.
I have a kitchen timer that takes a button battery (or two, if memory serves). It's a pain to change. I wish the thing had a AAA or AA battery.
Cindy Hamilton
On Tue, 16 Mar 2021 14:31:24 -0400, Clare Snyder posted for all of us to digest...
That has been my experience in buying and stocking batteries. I bought a bunch of Cr123 for my flashlights. I am on my last box. I'm glad they have a shelf life of 10 years. I think they last longer than me...
The CR2032 are used in many products so they are a go. I think all the different designations stand for their chemistry, but I am probably wrong. I needed an LR44 and ended up with an AG13. One of my jobs at the school district was to check the batteries and operation of the AED's. When I was in rehab I looked at the inspections on the AED's and they were performed everyday. (At least that was on the tag). One time it was noted twice the same day so I asked the question that I knew the answer to; they used it one someone.
On Tue, 16 Mar 2021 14:21:22 -0400, Clare Snyder posted for all of us to digest...
Thanks, I thought it might be the chemistry.
I was referring to the IEC standard. The LR1130 is a "standard" size An Alkaline 1.5v Round battery 11MM in diameter and 3MM thick. AG13 is just a number that means something to the manufacturer. It may have a market connotation but it doesn't tell you anything about the battery.
I'd disagree on headlamps. I have a couple of Petzl Tikkinas that take 3 AAAs. I also have an old Black Diamond from before LEDs had much output that has two LEDs and a krypton bulb that takes 3 AAs. The battery box sits at the back of your head, and there is an additional strap going over the top of your head to hold the whole rig up.
I do have some small flashlights that take 3 AAAs that were $20 for 3 at CostCo. I keep them handy for power outages which are infrequent.
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