OT: Home Town Auto Service

I went to a new car sales and service because I knew the service writer in the department. I asked for a specific front-end guy (Steve) but did not ge t him. I told them also that I was hearing a metallic "clank" in the front. After half hour I was told they couldn't do the alignment because there was a worn tie-rod on the driver's side and the inner CV joint was leaking gre ase! The "tech" was explaining how the trans-axle and CV joints work (altho ugh he didn't know what CV meant!). I told him "constant velocity" and that the inner joint moves in and out and the outer moves up and down. I asked to raise the car again...he pointed-out the grease, which appeared to be sp rayed on the boot! I found no hole in the boot and no play in the tie-rod. At this point he found I had a broken coil on the left strut...the only rea l problem (and the noise I was hearing). Make-up a problem and not see the most important one! I took the car to my mechanic, who replaced both struts and found nothing w rong with anything else. I then had it 4-wheel aligned by another local that did a fine job without issue. I had not used them prior...but intend to now!

Reply to
bob_villain
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n the department. I asked for a specific front-end guy (Steve) but did not get him. I told them also that I was hearing a metallic "clank" in the fron t.

as a worn tie-rod on the driver's side and the inner CV joint was leaking g rease! The "tech" was explaining how the trans-axle and CV joints work (alt hough he didn't know what CV meant!). I told him "constant velocity" and th at the inner joint moves in and out and the outer moves up and down. I aske d to raise the car again...he pointed-out the grease, which appeared to be sprayed on the boot! I found no hole in the boot and no play in the tie-rod . At this point he found I had a broken coil on the left strut...the only r eal problem (and the noise I was hearing). Make-up a problem and not see th e most important one!

wrong with anything else.

t issue. I had not used them prior...but intend to now!

I took a car to a local tire-store chain to have the brakes looked at. It was mid-winter and I was planning on finding out what the problem was before deciding if I wanted to take care of it myself.

The tech comes out, stands next to the manager and says "You have a caliper that's sticking. We need to replace it and we really should replace them as a pair."

Me: "Are you sure it's the caliper and not just a sticky slider pin?"

Tech: "Oh, you can't replace the slider pin, you have to replace the entire caliper."

Me: (looking at the manager) "Is that true?"

Manager: (looking rather sheepish) Well...you see...umm...err...

Me: "I thought so. Please have *someone else* put the wheels back on my car . I don't want him touching my car again."

Manager: "Yes sir, I'll take care of it myself."

Now, in the end, it did turn out to be the caliper, but the fact that the tech lied right to my face about not being able to replace just the slider pin was enough for me to walk out.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I think you were right to walk out.

Some times brakes stick when the angled slide (Clare can provide the proper name) gets some rust on it.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Some calipers use the slide as you call it - others use pins. Some of the slides are solid metal held in with pins, and some are "composite" wedges with rubber in them and "knobbies" on the end that hold the sliders in..

We just called them caliper pins and caliper sliders in the trade - or sliders and pins for the round ones, and slider wedges for the others. the SAE likely has some fancy nomenclature for them.

The recommended twice a year servicing/lubricating generally prevents them from sticking, and catches most sticky ones before they cause serious damage. Checking/cleaning/lubricating as required spring and fall can extend the life of disk brakes significantly.

Reply to
clare

My sister had a car where the brakes would not release properly. She found that if she slammed down on the brake pedal, some times they would release. My thought was to take the caliper off, brush, sand, and grease the heavy metal where the caliper and the car slid back and forth.

Knowing her (total yuppie) she took the car to a shop, and paid amazing buckets of money for a total brake job and financial hosing.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I'm not sure what you mean by "Some of the slides are solid metal held in with pins,..." It's probably just a matter of the terminology, but what do mean when you say the slides are held in with pins?

I thought slides and pins were basically one and the same as shown here:

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

Back in the seventies and eighties Toyota used little wedge shims that fit between the caliper and the caliper frame to hold the caliper in and allow the caliper to slide. They were held in place with little "hairpins" that kept them from sliding out. One pin through each end of each slider. There were other manufacturers that did the same, and might still be.

here is a set from a renault:

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- Go to the second last full row from the bottom - in the middle of the row., labelled "Wedge Caliper -Short- Renault 9/18 (Brake Pad 7261,

005) "

Middle of the sixth row down, labelled "Ford F-150

2001-2002/Expedition 2002, FMSI D702-7576 (2 pcs - 1 wheel) " is the composite slider I mentioned. - used to be a common Ford design.
Reply to
clare

bad flexible brake lines can have interior detoriation where it acts like a check valve.

brakes go on and cant come off. i happened to me and a friends daughter......

Reply to
bob haller

OK, I see that you were talking about a totally different kind of slider than I am used to. The Ford's, Mitsubishi's and Honda's I've worked on all had slightly different versions of the "slider pins" that I pictured above.

Maybe you can explain why Honda uses these spring clips on the Element but not on their Odysseys or Civics (at least not the model years I've worked on). Only SWMBO's 03 Element has them. (Some Acura's have them too.)

I understand their purpose, but I don't understand why only some models use them. If they are such a good idea, why aren't they used on all models?

It's a real pain to hold the pads on while trying to install the calipers.

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Full Link:

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

Anti-Drag springs used where brake pad rubbing noise is a problem? Just a guess. Don't spend the extra 7 cents per wheel if not required.

Reply to
clare

I've seen a few go that way - but more where the steel end on the flex hose rusted and swelled, pinching off the hose in the fitting. Made the brakes slow to apply - and then stay on virtually forever. Only way to get the car into the shop after the tow truck dropped it off in one case was to open the bleeder screws untill I found the one that was stuck.

Reply to
clare

I can't say if they are required or not but they came on the vehicle and the pads, even non-OEM pads, have the holes for them.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I'm saying the manufacturer cheaps out and doesn't install them where the figure they are not needed. Myself? I'd install them if they are avaialable to fit the vehicle whether they were initially installed or not.

Reply to
clare

One replay on topic...nice work a-holes!

Reply to
bob_villain

The subject of your post was prefixed with "OT:". Doesn't that meant we can take it even more off-topic?

Reply to
Wallace

OT "means" you have the choice not to view it!

Reply to
bob_villain

What's a replay?

Let's go to the vídeo.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

So only you, Lord Villain, can post off-topic?

Reply to
Wallace

Also, not on topic for a home repair list.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Also, I noted untrimmed text. Old messages. Center posting. "inline" posting with one comment, and trailing text below the one center posted comment. Off topic for a home repair list.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

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