I went to a new car sales and service because I knew the service writer in
the department. I asked for a specific front-end guy (Steve) but did not ge
t him. I told them also that I was hearing a metallic "clank" in the front.
After half hour I was told they couldn't do the alignment because there was
a worn tie-rod on the driver's side and the inner CV joint was leaking gre
ase! The "tech" was explaining how the trans-axle and CV joints work (altho
ugh he didn't know what CV meant!). I told him "constant velocity" and that
the inner joint moves in and out and the outer moves up and down. I asked
to raise the car again...he pointed-out the grease, which appeared to be sp
rayed on the boot! I found no hole in the boot and no play in the tie-rod.
At this point he found I had a broken coil on the left strut...the only rea
l problem (and the noise I was hearing). Make-up a problem and not see the
most important one!
I took the car to my mechanic, who replaced both struts and found nothing w
rong with anything else.
I then had it 4-wheel aligned by another local that did a fine job without
issue. I had not used them prior...but intend to now!
On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 3:11:58 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:
n the department. I asked for a specific front-end guy (Steve) but did not
get him. I told them also that I was hearing a metallic "clank" in the fron
as a worn tie-rod on the driver's side and the inner CV joint was leaking g
rease! The "tech" was explaining how the trans-axle and CV joints work (alt
hough he didn't know what CV meant!). I told him "constant velocity" and th
at the inner joint moves in and out and the outer moves up and down. I aske
d to raise the car again...he pointed-out the grease, which appeared to be
sprayed on the boot! I found no hole in the boot and no play in the tie-rod
. At this point he found I had a broken coil on the left strut...the only r
eal problem (and the noise I was hearing). Make-up a problem and not see th
e most important one!
wrong with anything else.
t issue. I had not used them prior...but intend to now!
I took a car to a local tire-store chain to have the brakes looked at. It
was mid-winter and I was planning on finding out what the problem was
before deciding if I wanted to take care of it myself.
The tech comes out, stands next to the manager and says "You have a caliper
that's sticking. We need to replace it and we really should replace them
as a pair."
Me: "Are you sure it's the caliper and not just a sticky slider pin?"
Tech: "Oh, you can't replace the slider pin, you have to replace the
Me: (looking at the manager) "Is that true?"
Manager: (looking rather sheepish) Well...you see...umm...err...
Me: "I thought so. Please have *someone else* put the wheels back on my car
don't want him touching my car again."
Manager: "Yes sir, I'll take care of it myself."
Now, in the end, it did turn out to be the caliper, but the fact that the
tech lied right to my face about not being able to replace just the slider
pin was enough for me to walk out.
Some calipers use the slide as you call it - others use pins. Some
of the slides are solid metal held in with pins, and some are
"composite" wedges with rubber in them and "knobbies" on the end that
hold the sliders in..
We just called them caliper pins and caliper sliders in the trade - or
sliders and pins for the round ones, and slider wedges for the others.
the SAE likely has some fancy nomenclature for them.
The recommended twice a year servicing/lubricating generally prevents
them from sticking, and catches most sticky ones before they cause
serious damage. Checking/cleaning/lubricating as required spring and
fall can extend the life of disk brakes significantly.
On 4/8/2016 8:29 PM, email@example.com wrote:
My sister had a car where the brakes would not
release properly. She found that if she slammed
down on the brake pedal, some times they would
release. My thought was to take the caliper off,
brush, sand, and grease the heavy metal where the
caliper and the car slid back and forth.
Knowing her (total yuppie) she took the car to a
shop, and paid amazing buckets of money for a total
brake job and financial hosing.
On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 8:29:14 PM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I'm not sure what you mean by "Some of the slides are solid metal held in
with pins,..." It's probably just a matter of the terminology, but what do
mean when you say the slides are held in with pins?
I thought slides and pins were basically one and the same as shown here:
On Fri, 8 Apr 2016 19:30:25 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
Back in the seventies and eighties Toyota used little wedge shims
that fit between the caliper and the caliper frame to hold the caliper
in and allow the caliper to slide. They were held in place with little
"hairpins" that kept them from sliding out. One pin through each end
of each slider. There were other manufacturers that did the same, and
might still be.
here is a set from a renault:
Go to the second last full row from the bottom - in the middle of the
row., labelled "Wedge Caliper -Short- Renault 9/18 (Brake Pad 7261,
Middle of the sixth row down, labelled "Ford F-150
2001-2002/Expedition 2002, FMSI D702-7576 (2 pcs - 1 wheel) " is the
composite slider I mentioned. - used to be a common Ford design.
On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 11:05:56 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
OK, I see that you were talking about a totally different kind of slider
than I am used to. The Ford's, Mitsubishi's and Honda's I've worked on all
had slightly different versions of the "slider pins" that I pictured above.
Maybe you can explain why Honda uses these spring clips on the Element
but not on their Odysseys or Civics (at least not the model years I've
worked on). Only SWMBO's 03 Element has them. (Some Acura's have them too.)
I understand their purpose, but I don't understand why only some models use
them. If they are such a good idea, why aren't they used on all models?
It's a real pain to hold the pads on while trying to install the calipers.
On Fri, 8 Apr 2016 21:05:28 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
I'm saying the manufacturer cheaps out and doesn't install them
where the figure they are not needed. Myself? I'd install them if they
are avaialable to fit the vehicle whether they were initially
installed or not.
On my '74 Corvette, for example, the pads can be changed simply by removing the clip, sliding out the pin and pulling the
pads all without the need to remove the caliper. The only real pain was getting the car in the air because the actual pad
replacement was a piece of cake.
On Sat, 09 Apr 2016 14:16:00 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Except, later, when I replaced the rotors I also replaced the calipers with stainless steel versions because the bores were
corroded and leaking past the seals. I guess that's what you get when you only put on a few miles a year. It's still fun to
light up the tires every once in a while. :-)
I've seen a few go that way - but more where the steel end on the
flex hose rusted and swelled, pinching off the hose in the fitting.
Made the brakes slow to apply - and then stay on virtually forever.
Only way to get the car into the shop after the tow truck dropped it
off in one case was to open the bleeder screws untill I found the one
that was stuck.
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