(Belarc description of the system posted elsewhere.)
Your cheapest solution is a reconditioned obsolete office PC
(e.g. Lenovo/IBM M52) for $50 to $100 (without monitor.) These
usually come with Windows XP Professional preinstalled, 1 or 2
Mb RAM and a hard drive of 40 to 80 Gb. You can add another
500 Gb hard drive for another $50 which will copy over all your old drive
until you decide what to do with it, and increasing RAM to 4 Gb
will improve operating speed. (Newer drives connect SATA
rather than PATA. The DIM 2350 lacks SATA connections but
the M52 has both types.)
If WinXP suits your needs and hardware, there is no need to
buy a newer Operating System until future software or hardware
obliges you to. Standard antivirus protection (e.g. Malwarebytes)
will keep you safe even after MS support for WinXP ends.
With Assembler, you're still looking at a huge increase over equivalent
Autocoder. You might get by with 32K vs. an original 8K but it's not
going to be easy.
Our 1401 Disk I/O routine was 500 bytes.
Depending on how much data is on the computer, one of the Thumb USB drives
may also work for less money.
I would not bet that the old keyboard and mouse can be used with a much
newer computer. More of the newer ones come with USB ports and his is
probably old enough to use the round connectors.
I just got in a computer BOX from ebay from $ 90 shipped . It has Win XP
Pro installed plus the COA on the box,a DVD RW 160 GB hard drive, 3 GB speed
and 1 GB of memory. Put in an order for 2 more DDR2 memory for about $ 12.
Had to go to the store to get a keyboard and mouse as the only spare ones I
had at home were the round plugs and that one needed the USB. I think that
computer was made in 2006 from the Dell site info.
I still like Outlook Express for the email I do.
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 17:00:24 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Better idea for changing out a suspect drive is to get a universal
USB Hard drive interface and a copy of HDClone or EASEuse backup.
Clone the old drive to the new drive, then pull the old drive and
install the new one. EASEuse allows you to easily change from, say, a
30MB to a terrabyte drive, or anything in between.
Then after the drive is installed, do a "repair istall" of XP if
required. VERY rare occaision that I actually have to re-install
Windows XP to get performance back. I have a few "tools of the trade"
that do a very good, if not excellent job of getting back lost
I know a lot of guys don't believe they work, but the "proof is in the
Most of them have never posted before and most of them don't come back.
They certainly aren't regulars here.
There's that. I will grudingly admit I've learned things from the responses
to these most likely troll posts. I wonder if someone is doing this to
increase click-thrus at some "scraping" website like Homeowner's Hub? More
likely it's one of the resident idiot trolls who gets their kicks from it.
At least trolls know where they can always get a good meal: AHR. )-:
You need to look harder on ebay as they come bigger than 128gb. I have a
512gb from there that unfortunately didn't work but I did get a full
refund. Last night I purchased a new 256gb on ebay for only $25! Like
most both were made in China but the 256gb was shipped from Missouri (I
have the tracking number).
| Planning for the end, I got out my backup drive,
| and put XP on it, with help from my computer
| The Windows update page doesn't function with XP.
| I left the backup drive in last night, and there
| were 133 auto updates waiting for me in the morning.
| Now I've got my next hard drive, for when this one
| grows old and fails.
Good idea. But one thing you might want to consider:
You could have a new computer by then. In my experience,
XP can deal with waking up in a new computer except
for one thing: Incompatible motherboard chipset drivers
can cause a bluescreen that's nearly impossible to recover
from. You might want to save a copy of your current
motherboard drivers, then boot that backup one more time,
uninstall the drivers on it, and then shut down. If you
then have to restart in a new PC it will install generic
drivers until you can finish setting it up. (All of this
assumes, of course, that you have XP Pro or some other
version that can still be activated after being installed
to a new computer. If you have OEM XP you probably
won't be able to run it on a second computer, as it will
be tied to the original motherboard.)
Microsoft seems to be more easy going about that hardware profile
thing. I have a number of COA stickers around here from various OEM
licenses and they gripe about the install but as soon as it tags
Microsoft, you reenter the 25 digit code and let it think about it.you
get a "thank you for registering your windoze" response.
Who know what will happen next week.
The video chip is the only real killer, so delete the video driver
from the new drive - leaving it as basic VGA. It then will boot on any
motherboard (in my experience) - might not have sound, or USB, or
Network - but it will boot so you can install the required drivers.
| The video chip is the only real killer, so delete the video driver
| from the new drive - leaving it as basic VGA. It then will boot on any
| motherboard (in my experience) -
I've never had any trouble booting with wrong
video drivers. It just dumps them if they don't work.
But it doesn't hurt to uninstall those, too.
Trust me - that has been tried. On the particular driver in question,
even safe mode will NOT boot. This is on video cards from about 6-10
years ago -about the age of machine we are talking about - and the
video driver was used on some Dell computers (as well as a host of
other brands, including "white box" customs. I've had to search for
operational old boards with the same chip to get the drive booted to
remove the driver - and even repaired a few boards to get the driver
off.. I have not run into one in the last 3 years - the last one was
my brother's shop operating machine (auto repair shop) - luckily I had
just ditched a handful of old computers at the insurance office - one
of which had the same motherboard as his (and a bad power supply,
flakey processor and bad ram from overheating due to bad power supply
fan) and was able to retrieve it. With his processor and ram we were
able to boot the drive and remove the driver - then installed the
drive in a new faster computer, where we then cloned the drive to a
new larger and faster hard drive. The main program was obsolete, and
the only way to re-install it was to buy the new version and pay to
have the data converted - that wasn't going to happen as he was
getting ready to retire and sell the business, so we had no option but
to get the old drive working on the new computer.
| Boot into Safe Mode to use the last known good configuration.
The last known good configuration is the one
from the old machine. But you can try it. Good
luck. On the other hand, if it doesn't work you
may have no other options, so why not just uninstall
the drivers before storing the backup? It's not a
lot of work.
Booting to safe mode *should* be fine for graphic
drivers. I've never had a case where I even needed
to do that. But one never knows. Clare@ seems to have
come across something funky. (Which wouldn't surprise
me on a Dell machine. I would never buy one of their
computers for that reason: They customize both hardware
and drivers unnecessarily, so that one is often dependent
on Dell parts and service.)
I think a big part of the problem is that Microsoft
has had a monopoly and could afford to adopt a
parochial attitude. Windows should be more adaptable
and less brittle in dealing with new hardware, but MS
like to imagine that's not relevant. They assume one
Windows license for every machine. So there's little
documentation or adaptation of the OS for being moved.
(Despite the fact that they charge about $100 extra
to millions of people for the Pro license that gives them
the legal right to move their "license" and OS to another
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