Is the float level right? (not overflowing and going down that center tube) If that is OK the other thing is to be sure the flapper in the bottom of the tank is sealing (no crud in seal, chain adjusted right etc) Some of these new toilets are pretty picky about that chain adjustment. The flapper may not drop right if it is wrong. Can you seat the flapper by hand and stop the drip?
I have a raised bungalow and the toilet in the basement tends to run constantly. (Sounds like its trying to self flush almost.) I replaced the tower in the tank thinking that the bottom seal was worn out, but it continued. Therefore I replaced the toilet with a Cadet 3 toilet from HD. It worked fine for maybe 6 months and has started to run constantly again. There is nothing blocking the seal and we don't use those tank deodorant/self-cleaning pucks. Any thoughts?
Does the float float? It is odd a new toilet would develop the same problem. Is the water going into the bowl or down the overflow?
There isn't that much that can go wrong. Flappers can start to disintegrate but that's after years, not 6 months.
What is the valve? One of the old style with the float on an arm? Is it binding on the tank wall? Is it adjusted to cutoff the flow before reaching the overflow? If a new style, is the float binding on the column?
The OP is talking about a new Cadet and it will have a Flowmaster in it as a general rule.
The old metal floats on a brass arm developed a pin hole; thus not float filled with water, just sit there an the valve never shuts off.
I've seen "sunken floats" in old carbs. They just flooded out :-)
A high performance exhaust system? I suppose that makes sense for a toilet.
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