RE: Squaring Rough Lumber

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This may be of interest to some of you.
Lew ---------------------------------- EIGHT STEPS TO SQUARING LUMBER
Courtesy of Cerritos College
Step Process Machine
1 Rough cut piece to length +1" Radial Arm Saw 2 Surface one face (Concave side down) Jointer 3 Surface to desired thickness Planer 4 Joint one edge Jointer 5 Rip to desired width + 1/32" Table Saw 6 Joint ripped edge Jointer 7 Square one end Chop Saw or Table Saw 8 Square other end to desired length Chop Saw or Table Saw
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On 6/14/2011 12:45 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

I do find that interesting, using improper steps to compensate for marginal equipment or technique I guess.
I recall many years ago, many many years ago ;~) one would get into a heap of trouble in shop class if you returned to the jointer to try to establish the board width with the jointer. Board edges could become nonparallel without a fixed indexing surface like the a rip fence.
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On 6/14/2011 7:00 AM, Leon wrote:

I agree that step 6 should be unnecessary with a sharp table saw blade set at 90 degrees, although a single pass with a well setup jointer AND proper technique, shouldn't hurt anything ... AAMOF, I occasionally do it when prepping boards for flat panel glue-ups.
The fly in the ointment is that a well setup jointer and proper technique are not givens in the age of GoogleXpertise, versus learning from an experienced teacher in a shop environment.
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On 6/14/2011 7:29 AM, Swingman wrote:

Agreed! I use'ta occasionally make a trip back to the jointer too. ;~) What ever works or straightens out a problem, no pun intended.
I was at odds with the fact that a college published the technically improper steps. Not surprised mind you.
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I find it interesting that no one mentioned hand jointing after. If I am joining up a panel, I will hand joint after ripping, so that the middle is sprung a little. That way the ends when they shrink won't gap. So joint after yes... but hand joint to be sure.
On 6/14/2011 8:46 AM, Leon wrote:

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"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
This may be of interest to some of you.
Lew ---------------------------------- EIGHT STEPS TO SQUARING LUMBER
Courtesy of Cerritos College
Step Process Machine
1 Rough cut piece to length +1" Radial Arm Saw 2 Surface one face (Concave side down) Jointer 3 Surface to desired thickness Planer 4 Joint one edge Jointer 5 Rip to desired width + 1/32" Table Saw 6 Joint ripped edge Jointer 7 Square one end Chop Saw or Table Saw 8 Square other end to desired length Chop Saw or Table Saw
=========Thanks for that, being new to jointing and just purchased one still in the box.
Doesn't the concave surface present problems to "fix" the first side?
Is there a technique to not making a rocking horse?
--
Eric



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"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
This may be of interest to some of you.
Lew ---------------------------------- EIGHT STEPS TO SQUARING LUMBER
Courtesy of Cerritos College
Step Process Machine
1 Rough cut piece to length +1" Radial Arm Saw 2 Surface one face (Concave side down) Jointer 3 Surface to desired thickness Planer 4 Joint one edge Jointer 5 Rip to desired width + 1/32" Table Saw 6 Joint ripped edge Jointer 7 Square one end Chop Saw or Table Saw 8 Square other end to desired length Chop Saw or Table Saw
=========Thanks for that, being new to jointing and just purchased one still in the box.
Doesn't the concave surface present problems to "fix" the first side?
Is there a technique to not making a rocking horse?
--
Eric



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1 Concave side down through thickness planer. 2 Turn board over and run through thickness planer. 3 Run lengthwise on table saw. 4 Flip board and run lengthwise on other edge. 5 Square ends on chop saw.
Am I missing something here? WW
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On 6/14/11 11:37 AM, WW wrote:

AFAIK, the reason you don't start on the planer is because it does nothing to correct any bow or twist along the board's length. The jointer doesn't just remove cupping, it removes the bow and twist from the length of a board. Once you've produced one wide edge that is perfectly flat, that is the reference edge for the planer.
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"WW" wrote in message

====== Key word there is "Thickness" planer
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Eric


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WW wrote:
...

And unless the board is awfully thick so it doesn't flex at all under the pressure of feed roller you still have a (somewhat) cupped board when done...
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On 6/14/11 7:50 PM, CW wrote:

You can take out a cup. I've done that all the time. You can't take out a bow or twist.
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wrote:

Maybe we're considering bows and warps of 0.500" or more nd you're talking about a measly 0.004" or something...
-- "The history of temperature change over time is related to the shape of the continents, the shape of the sea floor, the pulling apart of the crust, the stitching back together of the crust, the opening and closing of sea ways, changes in the Earth's orbit, changes in solar energy, supernoval eruptions, comet dust, impacts by comets and asteroids, volcanic activity, bacteria, soil formation, sedimentation, ocean currents, and the chemistry of air. If we humans, in a fit of ego, think we can change these normal planetary processes, then we need stronger medication." --Ian Plimer _Heaven and Earth: Global Warming, the Missing Science_
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Larry Jaques wrote:

...
Well, one can only remove cupping to the extent either the material is sufficiently strong to counteract the feed roller down force or is supported on a wedge/sled; otherwise the material is flattened, goes under the cutterhead and then returns to the former shape when the pressure is removed (w/ some reduction in the amount of material in the high places).
One can only remove bow or twist to the point of having a continuous plane of reference of the material to the cutterhead which again will move and rotate as the twist goes under the pressure roller unless the material is constrained.
It's only simply geometry...
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On 6/15/11 12:39 AM, CW wrote:

I'm hearing some quote from My Cousin Vinnie about Jack and him magic bean stalk means. :-)
Since this group is supposed to be about sharing of ideas and learning and all that, I think it would great of you to share the wisdom of your technique for this process with us lowly ignorant masses. A video would be great.
Otherwise, I'm calling bull$h!t. :-)
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An explanation wouldn't it. You would have to see it. The last movie camera I had was a super 8 and will probably be the last one I ever own. No use for it.

Fine with me. Your opinion means less to me than the electrons it takes to send this message.
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