This may be of interest to some of you.
Lew
---------------------------------- EIGHT STEPS TO SQUARING LUMBER
Courtesy of Cerritos College
Step Process Machine
1 Rough cut piece to length +1" Radial Arm Saw 2 Surface one face (Concave side down) Jointer 3 Surface to desired thickness Planer 4 Joint one edge Jointer 5 Rip to desired width + 1/32" Table Saw 6 Joint ripped edge Jointer 7 Square one end Chop Saw or Table Saw 8 Square other end to desired length Chop Saw or Table Saw
I do find that interesting, using improper steps to compensate for marginal equipment or technique I guess.
I recall many years ago, many many years ago ;~) one would get into a heap of trouble in shop class if you returned to the jointer to try to establish the board width with the jointer. Board edges could become nonparallel without a fixed indexing surface like the a rip fence.
I agree that step 6 should be unnecessary with a sharp table saw blade set at 90 degrees, although a single pass with a well setup jointer AND proper technique, shouldn't hurt anything ... AAMOF, I occasionally do it when prepping boards for flat panel glue-ups.
The fly in the ointment is that a well setup jointer and proper technique are not givens in the age of GoogleXpertise, versus learning from an experienced teacher in a shop environment.
Agreed! I use'ta occasionally make a trip back to the jointer too. ;~) What ever works or straightens out a problem, no pun intended.
I was at odds with the fact that a college published the technically improper steps. Not surprised mind you.
I find it interesting that no one mentioned hand jointing after. If I am joining up a panel, I will hand joint after ripping, so that the middle is sprung a little. That way the ends when they shrink won't gap. So joint after yes... but hand joint to be sure.
This may be of interest to some of you.
Lew
---------------------------------- EIGHT STEPS TO SQUARING LUMBER
Courtesy of Cerritos College
Step Process Machine
1 Rough cut piece to length +1" Radial Arm Saw 2 Surface one face (Concave side down) Jointer 3 Surface to desired thickness Planer 4 Joint one edge Jointer 5 Rip to desired width + 1/32" Table Saw 6 Joint ripped edge Jointer 7 Square one end Chop Saw or Table Saw 8 Square other end to desired length Chop Saw or Table Saw========== Thanks for that, being new to jointing and just purchased one still in the box.
Doesn't the concave surface present problems to "fix" the first side?
Is there a technique to not making a rocking horse?
This may be of interest to some of you.
Lew
---------------------------------- EIGHT STEPS TO SQUARING LUMBER
Courtesy of Cerritos College
Step Process Machine
1 Rough cut piece to length +1" Radial Arm Saw 2 Surface one face (Concave side down) Jointer 3 Surface to desired thickness Planer 4 Joint one edge Jointer 5 Rip to desired width + 1/32" Table Saw 6 Joint ripped edge Jointer 7 Square one end Chop Saw or Table Saw 8 Square other end to desired length Chop Saw or Table Saw========== Thanks for that, being new to jointing and just purchased one still in the box.
Doesn't the concave surface present problems to "fix" the first side?
Is there a technique to not making a rocking horse?
1 Concave side down through thickness planer. 2 Turn board over and run through thickness planer. 3 Run lengthwise on table saw. 4 Flip board and run lengthwise on other edge. 5 Square ends on chop saw.
Am I missing something here? WW
AFAIK, the reason you don't start on the planer is because it does nothing to correct any bow or twist along the board's length. The jointer doesn't just remove cupping, it removes the bow and twist from the length of a board. Once you've produced one wide edge that is perfectly flat, that is the reference edge for the planer.
Thanks Mike. I only do this on cupped boards. WW
A jointer's purpose is to make one face/edge of your stock _flat_.
A planers job is to make the opposite face of a jointed board parallel to the jointed/flat face ... The results of this sequences is a board of even thickness throughout it's length.
If you run a bowed board through a planer without first removing the bow on a jointer, then flip if over and run it through again, the result may not be a board of even thickness throughout it's length.
One of the reason for this is the planer has rollers which feeds the stock through the planer that exerts a downward pressure while doing so, but without removing the bow.
The sequence for correctly dimensioning stock using a jointer, planer, and table saw is very precise and makes sense once you think about it.
When jointing badly bowed stock, the key is to cut it into smaller lengths, which has the effect of removing a given bow in a longer length.
Block the sumbitch on the cnc table, level to top with multiple passes of a wide bit and then cut a rectangle to the required size. Take the sumbitch off flip good side down and pass it through the planer. Done.
Missing a lot. If the board has a twist from one end to the other the planer will deliver you a board that is thinner with the same twist.
Same sorta goes for the first cut on the TS.
You kinda have to, huh? If you're trying to get a 6' finished board from badly bowed 8' rough stock, you better be willing to work with a finish thickness of 2mm. :-)
(1) Shim the sumbitch on your home-made planer sled so it don't rock. (2) Run it through the planer. (3) Rinse & repeat No. 2 until flat.
Thanks Mike. I only do this on cupped boards. WW
=======
Key word there is "Thickness" planer
The planer doesn't leave the board unstressed during the flattening process, so there's some spring-back as the board exits. The steps (3) and (4), though, seem better than a jointer if you are going for an edge glue joint later; sanding the surface after a dull jointer pass is harder than sanding the surface after a dull tablesaw pass. Handplane jointing is ready for glue, but power jointers can (especially when dull) compress the fibers badly.
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