:> >I have here a planer/thicknesser. The top is an Aluminium bed with a:> >slot running across it at right angles, through which blades protrude:> >which rotate at high speed. I pass timber along the bed and the blades:> >remove wood, flatening the timber - hopefully! That's a planer.:> In the USA, we call that a jointer.
: Reading this group for quite a while now, I had always assumed the term
: referred to some some sort of machine for cutting various joints in
: wood. That's what the name suggests.
:> And the wood that we use for cabinetmaking, we call "lumber". "Timber",:> here, means standing trees which will eventually become lumber.:> "Timber" is also used, less frequently, to refer to very large wooden:> beams.
: "(n) wood suitable for building or carpentry whether growing or
: cut, a beam or large piece of wood in a framework, as of a house, ship &c"
: "(n) Furniture stored away out of use: anything cumbersome or
: Yes, I have become accustomed to the (mis-)use of these words round here.
If you had read the full page at the OED from which you got that definition,
you'd have seen the first specific North American definition, listed as
" 3. N. Amer. Timber sawn into rough planks or otherwise roughly prepared for
(Oxford English Dictionary)"
Juat out of curiosity, is "lumber" still used in the sense that
you're using it (definition 1 of OED)? Or are you being contrary?
-- Andy BArss
You'd be missing about 7/8 of the thickness of the board by then, I'd
Maybe a skosh, but not a whole lotta. One would have to secure the
board in its twisted lovliness to a stiff substrate and then run it
through the planer to take twist out. If it were square, do it 4 times
to get a more decent facsimile of a straight board. IOW, it wouldn't
be easy, CW.
What's your method?
"The history of temperature change over time is related to
the shape of the continents, the shape of the sea floor,
the pulling apart of the crust, the stitching back together
of the crust, the opening and closing of sea ways, changes
in the Earth's orbit, changes in solar energy, supernoval
eruptions, comet dust, impacts by comets and asteroids,
volcanic activity, bacteria, soil formation, sedimentation,
ocean currents, and the chemistry of air. If we humans, in
a fit of ego, think we can change these normal planetary
processes, then we need stronger medication."
_Heaven and Earth: Global Warming, the Missing Science_
As I said in a previous post, there was going to be someone out there that
tells me what I have been doing for years doesn't work. Having been a
professional machinist and tool maker for the past 25 years, have the
concept of flat, paralel and square are pretty well down. Yes, it works. If
it doesn't work for you, you aren't doing it right.
I believe we may just have a misunderstanding concerning terminology.
A planer will correct cupping, just fine.
It won't correct bow or twist on any board longer than, probably 2 feet.
It's just not possible on a normal planer that most woodworkers have in
"Having been a professional machinist and tool maker for the past 25
years," perhaps you've been using a planer with some super long bed and
two sets of rollers or something.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Let me see if I got this technique right:
Buy perfectly flat wood to begin with, instead of "crappy" wood.
Run flat perfect wood through the planer, and end up with perfectly flat
Seems simple enough, and I doubt anyone would say this technique won't work.
Most if not all know the planer is not the tool to straighten
non-perfect, crappy wood. The correct tool is the jointer, hand or
motorized or you could buy a $30,000 cnc machine like Robocop has.
Planer ain't it, whether you can make do with it or not.
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
A jointer's purpose is to make one face/edge of your stock _flat_.
A planers job is to make the opposite face of a jointed board parallel to
the jointed/flat face ... The results of this sequences is a board of even
thickness throughout it's length.
If you run a bowed board through a planer without first removing the bow on
a jointer, then flip if over and run it through again, the result may not
be a board of even thickness throughout it's length.
One of the reason for this is the planer has rollers which feeds the stock
through the planer that exerts a downward pressure while doing so, but
without removing the bow.
The sequence for correctly dimensioning stock using a jointer, planer, and
table saw is very precise and makes sense once you think about it.
When jointing badly bowed stock, the key is to cut it into smaller lengths,
which has the effect of removing a given bow in a longer length.
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