Block the sumbitch on the cnc table, level to top with multiple passes
of a wide bit and then cut a rectangle to the required size. Take the
sumbitch off flip good side down and pass it through the planer. Done.
On Tuesday, June 14, 2011 9:37:53 AM UTC-7, WW wrote:
The planer doesn't leave the board unstressed
during the flattening process, so there's some spring-back
as the board exits.
The steps (3) and (4), though, seem better than a jointer
if you are going for an edge glue joint later; sanding the
surface after a dull jointer pass is harder than sanding the
surface after a dull tablesaw pass. Handplane jointing
is ready for glue, but power jointers can (especially when
dull) compress the fibers badly.
The way I do it too. Never found a need for a jointer. Can't see ever having
the need for one unless (1) I was doing production work. (2) I was buying
realy crap lumber.
Productiobn work I don't do. Crappy lumber I don't buy. Now, how long will
it take for someone to get on here and tell me that my method won't work and
I guess it depends on your definition of "work".
Ten or fifteen years ago, I formulated these rules of thumb based on actual
measurements and observations:
1. If something is out of square/plumb/level/parallel by one part in 100, it's
immediately obvious to a casual, untrained observer. IOW, 99% accuracy is
*not* good enough.
2. If it's out by one part in 200, it will be readily visible to anyone who's
looking for flaws.
3. If it's out by one part in 400, it's visible to a particularly discerning
4. If it's out by one part in 800, it's not visible, but can be found by
5. If it's out by one part in 1600, see rule 4, but use precision instruments.
If you don't use a jointer -- or some equivalent method such as a good jointer
plane, a planer sled, a jointing jig for a router, etc. -- you're *not* going
to get any better than Rule 2.
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