Well, you're the one who keeps claiming to square lumber perfectly without a jointer, but refuses to say how, so I'm sure you're the expert on bullshit here.
Problem's obviously on your end. I've been using the same ID for a *long* time. So who's the bozo?
Well, you're the one who keeps claiming to square lumber perfectly without a jointer, but refuses to say how, so I'm sure you're the expert on bullshit here.
Problem's obviously on your end. I've been using the same ID for a *long* time. So who's the bozo?
Buy perfectly flat wood to begin with, instead of "crappy" wood. Run flat perfect wood through the planer, and end up with perfectly flat planed wood...
Seems simple enough, and I doubt anyone would say this technique won't work.
Most if not all know the planer is not the tool to straighten non-perfect, crappy wood. The correct tool is the jointer, hand or motorized or you could buy a $30,000 cnc machine like Robocop has. Planer ain't it, whether you can make do with it or not.
I recently, in an uncontrolled spending spree, bought a Wixie angle gauge. I checked my table saw blade and fence, jointer fence, band saw table and every one, which I always set up with my dads very, very old and well used combination/tri square, were either 89.9° or 90.1°. I reset them to exactly 90.0° which was so minimal (1/10th of a degree) as to be meaningless in my opinion. I then read the package and the Wixie is accurate to .1 degree, so I'm thinking there is even money on who was right, but at least I know my set up skills over the past 40 years is just as accurate as the fancy Wixie digital age gauge. My table saw fence was exactly 90°
Perhaps I'm misunderstanding your accuracy table, and for sure I'm not a machinist so when working with wood, 1/32 is as close as my eyes let me measure with any degree of accuracy.
Furthermore, I also recently bought a digital caliber at HF. It works great except it is way too accurate for me. Everything is like
87/124ths or similar, and I'm more interested in 11/16ths. I'd really like one that you could adjust the accuracy to what you need, and I always have trouble looking for an 87/124ths drill bit:-)
Obviously, it depends on the length between to two points of reference.
1/32" difference on the width of a 5' board? Please.
1/32" difference in thickness of a 1/4" thick piece of molding 5" long? Most of us could see that, but I'm still with you.
You just need to get your drill bits from harbor freight, too! Last time I got harbor freight bits, there was an 87/124ths bit and lots of other xx/124th bits. :-)
Ah, but you're forgetting the "regularization" of verbs promoted by the publishing industry :-). I still wince when I hear things like "pleaded" instead of "pled" and the like.
P.S. My Pan spell checker even says pled is not a word! Nor is sawn.
Oddly enough, we use the word "sawn" but primarily as an adjective: quarter-sawn, rough-sawn, plain-sawn, etc. The past tense of "saw" is usually "sawed" in American English.
I'm not talking about measuring dimensions. I'm talking about relative proportions. [...]
You misunderstand.
Suppose you've constructed a frame of some sort -- say a cabinet carcase -- and you want to make sure it's square. Measuring the diagonals is an easy way to check for square. If one diagonal is, say, 20", and the other is 20.1" (one-tenth part in twenty, or one part in 200), that carcase will be visibly not square. If it's out by one part in 100, e.g. one diagonal 19.9" and the other 20.1", it will be not merely visibly, but *obviously*, out of square.
It is past participle of the word 'saw', just like the past participle of the word 'blow' is 'blown'. Blow the house down. The wind blew the house down. The house was blown down, not blowed down.
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