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12 years ago
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And unless the board is awfully thick so it doesn't flex at all under the pressure of feed roller you still have a (somewhat) cupped board when done...
Yeah, he's certainly not a Luddite, nor a follower of Lord Roy's. He's a Normite of the first degree.
-- To know the road ahead, ask those coming back. -- Chinese Proverb
The way I do it too. Never found a need for a jointer. Can't see ever having the need for one unless (1) I was doing production work. (2) I was buying realy crap lumber. Productiobn work I don't do. Crappy lumber I don't buy. Now, how long will it take for someone to get on here and tell me that my method won't work and can't work?
Yes it does.
Nope. Flat.
Correct ... but only on those high parts of the board that the knives hit does it effectively reduce the relative overall cup, bow or twist of the stock.
BUT, that doesn't necessarily have the desired effect of dimensioning a board to even thickness throughout its length.
Are you in the UK where a "planer" is the device that in the US is known as a "jointer" and the "thicknesser" is the device that in the US is known as a "planer"?
Because a US "planer" does little to correct bow or twist unless you construct a special sled to support the board in the bowed or twisted state.
You'd be missing about 7/8 of the thickness of the board by then, I'd guess.
Maybe a skosh, but not a whole lotta. One would have to secure the board in its twisted lovliness to a stiff substrate and then run it through the planer to take twist out. If it were square, do it 4 times to get a more decent facsimile of a straight board. IOW, it wouldn't be easy, CW.
What's your method?
-- "The history of temperature change over time is related to the shape of the continents, the shape of the sea floor, the pulling apart of the crust, the stitching back together of the crust, the opening and closing of sea ways, changes in the Earth's orbit, changes in solar energy, supernoval eruptions, comet dust, impacts by comets and asteroids, volcanic activity, bacteria, soil formation, sedimentation, ocean currents, and the chemistry of air. If we humans, in a fit of ego, think we can change these normal planetary processes, then we need stronger medication." --Ian Plimer _Heaven and Earth: Global Warming, the Missing Science_
------------------------------------ The above is part of an intro wood working course, WMT-101, I took last year.
I came away from that course with a true appreciation of the value of a well tuned jointer when squaring rough lumber.
Of course it probably didn't hurt that I learned how to properly use a jointer in that class.
Prior to that my technique was home schooled and my results showed it.
Lew
That set-up worked out great the other day when a local trophy shop asked me to put a flat side on a slab of maple burl.
Are you in the UK where a "planer" is the device that in the US is known as a "jointer" and the "thicknesser" is the device that in the US is known as a "planer"?
Because a US "planer" does little to correct bow or twist unless you construct a special sled to support the board in the bowed or twisted state.
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Or his tension rollers are shot and not working
The only way it would is if you were using some sort of a sled. Short of that, you may thinks it's correcting a bow or twist, but it's not.
You can take out a cup. I've done that all the time. You can't take out a bow or twist.
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:4df82310$0$21172 $c3e8da3$ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:
Could you elaborate a bit on that technique? My technique is pretty much home schooled as well, and I'd like to try to improve it.
Puckdropper
-------------------------------- "Puckdr> Could you elaborate a bit on that technique? My technique is pretty > much
------------------------------------ Most of it has do with the length of the bed.
Maintaining total support of the stock as it goes thru the cut process goes a long way toward good performance of the jointer.
If your present machine has short in/out beds, consider adding bed extensions that can be put in position during use.
I also am a believer in setting the cut depth to 1/32" and forget it.
Adequate push blocks with one having a hook cleat to insure positive control of the stock as it passes thru the jointer.
Those little plastic paddles covered with foam leave a lot to be desired IMHO.
Maintaining control of the stock keeps you warm and fuzzy.
Feeding the stock thru the jointer in a smooth continuous motion also keeps you warm and fuzzy.
HTH
Lew
As I said in a previous post, there was going to be someone out there that tells me what I have been doing for years doesn't work. Having been a professional machinist and tool maker for the past 25 years, have the concept of flat, paralel and square are pretty well down. Yes, it works. If it doesn't work for you, you aren't doing it right.
No, YOU probably can't but I do it all the time.
OK, tell us how to take twist out of a board using a planer without a sled.
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