Hmmmm. If the plane's dull and your foot's not on the lower step, maybe.
Or maybe you have to be my mass to do the the trick?
"patriarch firstname.lastname@example.orgDOTnet>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
No, I don't think putting any amount of weight on the lower step will
help. The frame just isn't rigid against side-to-side racking. The
step might be stable, but the top will be waving about. It's a bit
more rigid front-to-back, so they are usable for sawing.
A Workmate is also too short for many planing jobs.
Like, get the sole flat, sharpen the blade, and so forth. The best method is go to
a junk business and try to find a thick piece of glass, large enough for the size of
two sheets of sandpaper. Buy four grits, 80, 220, 400, 800, and buy a can of 3M
Super 77 at any hardware or crafts store. Also try and find a cheap honing guide
to hold chisels and plane blades (an actual "must").
Layout newspaper, sandpaper face down and spray the back lightly* and even, then
lay it on the glass square and flat. Cover the glass with the sandpaper. You can use
flat marble too, I have both but I use the marble for chisels only because the glass
has much more integrity for flatness, doesn't matter as much for chisels. The glass
should be at least 1/2" thick but it is somewhat expensive to buy new. Junk shop.
Disassemble the plane and clean all parts thoroughly without wrecking the finish,
dry it all thoroughly as well or it will rust easily.
Start with 80 grit until the whole sole is flat, then remove rough grit marks
progressively with finer grits. Once the sandpaper is spent, clogged, useless, peel
it off and use paint thinner and paper towels to clean the surface, and apply new
sandpaper when dry. If adhesive is left dry on the surface and new paper is applied
it will result in an uneven surface of hills and valleys.
Sand the sole of the plane body without applying too much pressure in favor of
any specific area of the sole, do this until the whole sole is shiny. One way to see
when it is all totally flat, use an ink marker and scribble across the sole, as it
the ink will disappear. Also do the same for the outside_sides of the plane body,
the reason is to square the sole to the sides. For this purpose you will need a
so you can test it from time to time with a lamp to shine through.
You can do the same for the face of the "frog", sanding around the "nib" that
is part of the "Y" Adjusting Lever, see graphic of plane parts:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm it sticks out from the face of
the frog. Don't sand on it. But, you can do this job lightly until there is no
unevenness of the face.
After all that work, sharpen the blade using the scary sharp method with the surface,
sandpaper and the honing guide. Start with 220 grit until a new bevel is just*
ground on, then go to 400 and then 800, you could as far as 1200 so that cutting
edge becomes like glass. Don't grind too fast and hard, or uneven or you'll ruin the
squareness of the cutting edge to the sides, vital! If that edge_to_sides is already
of_square you'll need to use a file_to_square_it, right straight on that cutting edge,
then do the honing. When I have found that, I hold the blade down and the off an
edge of the work area and file away. It doesn't take long, a vise would help good but
use wood. Also test with a square.
Reassemble and enjoy planing, no matter what company made the damn thing!
When planing, find the grain of the wood where it travels in direction upwards
and follow it that way, don't go against the grain. When setting the blade it must
stick out of the mouth just_BARELY, and not skewed to either side.
If you want good chisels to learn with, I suggest Stanley 200 series, great
quality and really low prices. Wooden mallet. Enjoy!
edge is convex, or rounded outwards like a scrub plane blade. I hold down the whole
with my left hand an then, straight into the cutting edge, I file it flat_to_square.
So that all
three sides are squared. Sides to cutting edge and cutting edge to sides. Does that
now? Let me know.
For new planes, give Steve Knight a peek: www.KnightToolworks.com
or go hunting on Ebay, where most of my metal planes originated.
Old Stanley planes go for $20 or less on good days.
Also, I managed to get a cheaparse Indian import plane (like HF's
$9.99 junker) to cut like a dream for a few feet. Once I had learned
how to properly ScarySharpen(tm) the blade AND how to set it very
fine, so it took less of a bite in the wood, it worked much, much
better. I soon found out that I -used- to think of as "sharp" was
actually more like "dull as nails."
My test for sharpness: Set the iron on my thumbnail vertically.
Using no downward pressure, I try to move the iron up my nail toward
the thumb. It should scrape a fine shaving, and i should have felt
it cut gently into the nail as I let it down. (Once you have really
thin thumbnails, move on to other fingernails.)
m / \
o ================ iron
v | |
| | | thumb
| | |
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Hello again Sam,
I've got a old Bailey plane that I found down in my dad's basement,
all covered in rust. I couldn't get the thing to work no matter what
I did, even though I read every article I could find, and spent hour
after hour trying different things. I figured it was just a peice of
junk, and I wanted to toss it out and buy a new one. But then I took
a woodworking class (in your case, you may want to just find a teacher
or friend who knows how to do it) and the instructor showed me how to
set it up and use it properly in about 25 minutes. Now it works
great! Sometimes what you need isn't a new tool- it's just a helping
hand from someone who is in the same room with you to show you how it
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