I looked at many designs for miter saw tables. There are "wing"
extensions, rolling tables, commercial stands, fence hardware "kits",
a scrap of plywood, etc
The commercial foldup stands seem oriented to job site work. I want a
real work surface. So, after 1/2 completing my own version, I have some
miter saw extensions opinion questions. I've made solid base extensions
on an existing fixed table and then made two fence versions and I'm
still not happy.
The first fence version was relatively high from birch plywood, the
second was simply cut from extruded aluminum (about 1.5 inches high).
If the fence is high, you either leave a gap or cut it down near the saw
to account for the sliding fence. The aluminum is easy, tough and fit
nicely agaist the saw but will never have a sliding track.
You made it through my ramble, so here are some topics:
- Assuming you include some type of sliding length stop, is the fence
top, fence side or the base a better choice for a T slot or track?
There are some pricy folding stops out there with a track on the top.
- I don't want the add on fence to interfere with the tall sliding fence
on the actual saw. Should the extension fence simply be low and "under"
the saw sliding parts? You end up with less support for a tall piece
"away" from the saw. Or, should the whole add on fence slide too? A
gap seems just wrong. In other words, do you find vertical support away
from the actual saw of much value?
- I have a double bevel saw with six feet of wall and one side open to
dedicate. By "open" I mean a long space normally used as a walkway that
can not normally be blocked.
What is more practical: Two foot extensions on each side?
Four feet on the fixed side and some folding arm on the open side?
Put the whole thing on wheels with everything folding?
It seems that the more complex you go (wheels, folding or removable
parts, etc), the more you need to adjust - possibly in all three axes.
I have a picture of the two foot long aluminum version if anyone is
Thanks for any comments.