Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in one
pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?
It's going to depend on the saw. I would doubt it for most of them.
It's not that difficult to get a decent cut in two passes if the saw
is set up square. I can get pretty durn close with a hand circular
saw if I take my time. Besides you're working with a 6x6 which is by
no means going to be perfect in any other direction.
No. First off, a miter saw does not reciprocate, it rotates, and no
saw provides a perfectly smooth cut unless you have a rather loose
definition of perfectly.
Make a miter box out of some scrap plywood and use a plain old vanilla
hand saw, and clean it up with a sharp hand plane. It won't kill you,
you won't mess up the beam, and it's good exercise.
I can't imagine how ANY 12" blade would cut a 5 1/2 or 6" cut. If you
have a washer holding the blade on, the very MOST you could ever get is
5 1/2" and that is if you could cut all the way to the washer and that's
remove the "not" from my address to email
Do you mean a non-sliding miter saw?
I've never heard of a reciprocating miter saw, so I'm pretty confident
in stating that *all* miter saws are non-reciprocating.
In fact, a reciprocating miter saw sounds really scary!
Besides, you'd be amazed at what a belt sander can do to clean up any
ridges left from a cut made from multiple sides.
Thanks for the nice replies.... I made a mistake in using the word
non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... one chap caught that....
What is the next size, after 12 inch ? Does it go to 14, or larger ?
BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 beams, so could cut down on work if we
had a saw that can cut in one pass.
Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains. Will build
"squares" out of beams, and stake them in the ground with rebar. Will nail
beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails. For the
project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about buying a basic
drill press to drill pilot holes first.
Oren, I cannot decipher what this sentence means ??? Can you rephrase it
please ? I would like to know the point you are making...
thanks again to all replies !!
Not a task where cuts and bore holes have to be "perfect".
Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut
with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. Perhaps most folks would, but I
don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.
And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy...
it has to do with speed and manpower. I have MANY steps thurs many holes
to drill for these steps.... I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.
James, I am not aware of any drill press capable of 10" quill
stroke. I think you will definitely be in the portable drill
market. The big decision will be whether to work with a ship
auger or speed bores with extension.
You might consider using a reciprocating saw for the timber cuts
if you do not find a chainsaw acceptable.
Keep the whole world singing . . .
Agreed. He is making this WAY more complicated than it needs to be. Even
if he had a giant chop saw and wide-mouth drill press, I suspect that
after hoisting and supporting the first half-dozen timbers to cut and
drill them, he would be looking for another solution. An electrician's
drill with and auger or long spade bit, and a small chainsaw, is what we
used back in the stone age. A speed square and an old screwdriver, to
scribe the cut lines, helps. Fit one end, mark the other end, shove a
brick under it to keep the blade out of the dirt, and cut. Once timber
is in place, drill the slightly undersize hole through the first timber
into the second, and pound in the rebar peg with a BFH.
Only time we did fancy smooth cuts and used threaded rod or bolts, was
for the pretty stuff up on the deck, which wasn't made from landscape
Yes, a Sawzall or clone would work and produce a prettier cut, but it
would be a lot slower than a chainsaw. (The framing crews decking out
the roofs on the apartments I worked on as a kid, used a chainsaw to cut
off the wild ends on the decking. 3 stories up, strolling along with no
safety harness. Those guys were all young and immortal, but I never saw
What you need is a Milwaukee Hole Hawg and a ship auger of the
appropriate size. Unfortunately, Milwaukee self feed bits don't come
is the smaller sizes you need.
Look over the bits and such in the section of plumbers and
electricians specialties at your box store.
I think you're assuming a couple of things about chainsaws and their
use that are affecting your opinion. I have seen tile jobs that
sucked - doesn't mean that I think all tile jobs suck. Most people
are not looking for joinery-quality cuts when they whip out a
chainsaw. They're looking for down and dirty, and probably have a
worn chain, so it's no surprise that what you saw was down and dirty -
yours doesn't have to be. Invest the money in the correct tool.
or, if you want slower so you can enjoy the experience on the hillside
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
BTW, you are simply kidding yourself about the cut ends of the ties.
Unless you're popping for the $ for cedar, you're going to be getting
PT 6x6s and they'll have splits, checks, and big knots. Even if your
cuts were perfect the whole job would still look like it was made from
lumber with splits, checks, and big knots. You're mentally gilding
the lily before you start which is a perfect recipe for a big
letdown. I advise you to adjust your thinking.
Again - you're simply kidding yourself. Lugging a drill press up and
down and on top of whatever needs to be drilled is pointless in your
application. The ties are drilled in place and you don't need a
perfectly perpendicular hole, you need a straight hole that's
relatively perpendicular. Any heavy duty D-handled 1/2" drill will do
the job. Use an extension for the drill bit so you don't have to bend
over to drill the holes. The weight of the drill will feed the bit -
you just have to keep it from rotating.
I still think you should do it with hand tools. They build moral
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