I'm looking for the plans for a jig for fine tuning miter cuts after they have first been cut on the table saw. I saw,and can't remember where, a jig that used an iron from a plane. Does that sound familiar to anyone? Patt
Perhaps you're referring to a shooting board? Google that, and see if that's what you're looking for.
I just made a hand-power one. .750" plywood base about 16" x 16", .& 250" plywood screwed to it, shy ~2" on either side. A precision 1.25"x.75" strip screwd along top @ far edge from legs, and a strip on the underside for clamping to a bench vice. Then a 3x3 drill pattern through both plys for a mitre strip of .750" x 1.000" x ~13" long, attached with a wing nut into bolt held in grooves cut in bottom of .750" ply. A std. planer (whole thing, not-attached, arm operated) rides flat on the .750" ply, up against the .250" ply, on either side. The far edge strip is at 90 degrees, but also micro-adjustable with a flat bottomed hole, and lat bottoming screw in oversized C'Bored hole.
BTW, why is my No.4 Stanley plane flat (i.e right angled via. plane blade plane) on one side, but not on the other!?
Consider that if your jig does not allow for you to PRECISELY cut your pieces to an EXACT length, 45's for parallel pieces and picture frames will probably have gaps at the joint.
As important as having an exact 45 or other degree cut, is having parallel sides to be of exact equal length.
I put a couple of posts (bent) in "Newbie questions on use of table saw",
06/03/2006 6:39 PM you may want to see and also search group or net for term "miter sled", or "mitre sled", as I was taught. "sled" or message or subject "sled", & sender "bent". I know I described my mitXX sled, as well as my cross-cut sled somewhere in here.Hi Patt,
Why not just cut your miters accurately > I'm looking for the plans for a jig for fine tuning miter cuts after they
miter cut.
OK, fine. I'll re-state it:
Why not just do it right the first time? Why start out plann> That might not help if "fine tuning miter cuts", means to clean up the > miter cut.
LOL.. No Ed what I mean is what if "fine tuning" is meant to reflect a more crisp edge with out tear out. What if the blade on the TS makes a perfect
45 but with lots of tear out and he wants to use some thing like those Guillotine jobs that cut a crisp sharp edge. No amount of machine set up is going to prevent a problems with a blade that causes a lot of tear out. You know, some people run their TS ripped edge through the jointer afterwards to clean up the cut.Hi Leon,
Why do you think that the output of the TS will necessarily need clean-up? Heck, a good quality sharp blade will produce excellent results, free from tearout or any crushed fibers. And, it will cost less than one of those guillotine things. Ever seen the Forrest demo at the trade shows?
Aga> LOL.. No Ed what I mean is what if "fine tuning" is meant to reflect a more
Maybe it was the comment by the OP that he was looking for a jig for fine tuning miter cuts after they have first been cut on the table saw. That really could mean anything, the comment was non specific. IF he does not have a good blade the cuts can be cleaned up with a jig and a plane blade. If his miter gauge is not reliably repeatable your tool will come in handy.
Forrest demo's? I do my own Forrest demo most every day. ;~)
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