making external framed and ledged doors internal!

There are a couple of points to consider, Paul. Normally external doors are, for obvious reasons, thicker than internal doors. Typically, 45mm vs

35mm. The rebate in a normal internal door frame is usually around the 38-40mm mark, so your doors may be too thick to fit flush in the hole. If the door stops (that part of the jamb and head which actually stops the door swinging right through) are "planted" ie simply nailed onto the jamb to form the rebate, then you may be able to pry them off and reduce them by 10mm in width and refit them.

If, however, as is usual, the door stops/rebates are actually machined from the solid jamb, then you are faced with the problem of trying to machine off another 10mm to fully house the door, a tricky job with the jamb in situ. You could shift most of it with a router, but you'd still be left with handsawing, chiselling/side-rebate planing the upper and lower corners where the router can't reach.

You could remove the architrave, remove and disassemble the door frame - t'ain't that hard - and do the routing much more conveniently, then refit the door frame and architrave. You'd probably have a fair bit of making good plaster and paintwork afterwards.

The other point is that ledged and braced doors are normally fitted with long strap or tee hinges, which may be a bit wide for a standard internal jamb with the architrave in the way. However, if you have your terminology correct and your doors are framed, ledged and, perhaps, braced, then you should be able to use standard butts as usual.

The rebate is your main snag. If you can overcome that, then all should be well.

If you're anywhere near Rutland, my fees are extremely reasonable....

Best of luck,

Frank

"paulsandham" wrote in message news:417fd46e$1 snipped-for-privacy@alt.athenanews.com...