Internal Doors

What on earth did you measure the door thickness with!!!!??? You've got it down to thousandths of a millimetre!!

Hmm, down to one micron, sounds like laser interferometry?

I suspect the variation through paint and knocks will be significant :-)

The standard 35mm doors will be too thick :)

Bearing in mind th original doors date to before metrication, I converted 1+3/8 inches to millimetres.

I always seem to manage to offend people (my wife tells me).

It's a talent. :)

No, just an opportunity to pull a leg.

avoid the MDF frame ones they are a pig to rebate locks into ....

You possibly need a router and jig for a neat job.

One suspects that the accuracy of the thickness measurement is affected by the rugosity of the surface involved in the measurement...;-)

I am cheap and used a chisel ....

I had to look up rugosity:

Rugosity, f?, is a measure of small-scale variations of amplitude in the height of a surface, {\displaystyle f_{\text{r}} =A_{\text{r}}/A_{\text{g}}} where A? is the real surface area and Ag is the geometric surface area

I am still non-the-wiser. :(

Alan

it's easy!

Lets pretend that you measured the thickness of the door with a micrometer that had a spindle/anvil of say 3mm in diameter,

Assume the peaks and troughs of the surface roughness are spaced apart about the same distance as the peak heights. The micrometer's spindle or anvil is very much larger than this, so it will average out the roughness and you'll get a sensibly constant reading of the door thickness wherever you measure it (all other things being equal).

If the spindle/anvil of your micrometer happens to have the surface area of a pin-head, you'll get a variation of the readings due to the surface roughness (the rugosity), as these peaks and troughs have the same dimensions as the pin head - on one measurement you'll hit a peak, on another you'll hit a trough.

Having just replaced seven of my 1988-installed honeycomb doors I can tell you that there are dozens of websites that will give you all the information you need about sizes and styles. I ordered from

and one which must be constantly honed, but well worth it.

And if he cuts a standard 'modern' imperial sized door down from 78 inches to 1960mm he might go through the minimal timber edging at top and bottom.

And remember what happened to Jimbo, who bought a cheapo door from B&Q that was edged with flimsy, whippy mdf.

The 50-YO doors might be filled with 'egg boxes'but they will have a lot more proper timber around the edges. Choose replacements carefully !

Doors that are not metric-size are still effectively imperial sized, but just converted to metric !

Normal internal doors are still 2'6" wide and 6'6" tall. Normal front doors are 2'9" wide and 6'6" wide. However in the catalogues of the likes of Jeld Wen they will state 762mm by 1981mm for a 30x78 inch door.

You can get fire doors that skinny these days though.

The OP might want to consider the 'solid core' variants which are heavier so more sound-proof without going the whole hog of a fire door.

Isn't is the amount of material needed to be removed from a door after fitting new fitted carpets ?.

They'll be standard 6'6" x 2'6" doors but with a bit chopped off the bottom and/or top to fit the frames/flooring.

You can still buy doors of that size, but the dimensions may be shown in metric. In chopping the best part of an inch off the height, you may end up removing the whole of the solid wood bit at the bottom. If this happens, remove a bit of the honeycomb, strip the facing off the removed wood and glue it back inside what is left if the door.

What sort of boiler have you got? Modern sealed boilers will work quite happily inside wall-mounted kitchen cupboards and don't need any fancy fire-proofing. What sort of boiler was originally installed in your cupboard?