Just got a bandsaw

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Auburn (Opelika).
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On 7/15/2011 11:59 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

I dont in particular care for Boeshield. I have a 12 year old can with most of it full. Originally I used it on my TS top but found that it had to be wiped/cleaned off before use. I found it to be more of a preservative than "top slicker upper". Topcote seems to be the only thing that I am aware of that goes on easy and needs no other attention. I seldom wipe the surface off as instructed on the can.
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When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading this group ;). I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the "heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat). It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.
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On 7/17/2011 2:04 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool store I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems they made the right decision for me...
--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
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On 7/17/2011 5:40 PM, Jack Stein wrote:

And if you like TopCote you might love Empire TopSaver. They originally produced TopCote and have in recent years started making a similar product again. I used Empire Top Saver, or what ever they called it, back in the early 80's. It as a superior top slicker upper and as a side benefit, one which they did not claim, it prevented rust. Now they make the rust prevention claim.
I personally TopCote now, it is about 2/3's the cost of the Empire product.
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On 7/17/2011 6:52 PM, Leon wrote:

I don't use my tools as much as I once did, but it seems to me that Top Cote works about the same as the 3M stuff I used in the 70's and 80's, but does not seem as durable.(subject to aged memory) When I used my tools every day, it lasted about 6 months.(also subject to aged memory)
TopCote seems a bit less, and I use my tools far less. Still, I bought two cans a few years ago, and still have some left in one can, and a whole can untouched. Takes me all of 10 seconds to recoat my table saw, my biggest table, so I'm more than happy with TopCote. I paid 9.99 a can when I bought it.
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Jack
A clear conscience is usually the sign of a bad memory.
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Pretty much the opposite of my experience (Woodcraft only carried T-9). OTOH, there was almost a consensus here, at the time, that Boeshield was better at protecting metal. Boeing apparently thought so, too.
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On 7/17/2011 8:48 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Boeshield is good at protecting metal, as long as you don't wipe it off. Unfortunately in a humid environment you have to wipe it all off or IMHO it feels grabby. Wipe it all off and it is no longer going to protect. I suppode in a less humid environment it works out better for some.
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I waited about five minutes before wiping it off. It must protect the iron because it's not rusted. ;-)
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On 7/18/2011 5:10 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Is it still tacky? I wiped mine off till it was no longer tacky, had rust the next morning.
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No, it was never really "tacky". The wood didn't slide as well as I'd expected after I first used it. I don't leave it on nearly as long now and it's much better. No rust, but there is a discoloration where apparently sweat has gotten to it.
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On 7/17/11 1:04 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

I retreated my bandsaw table the other day to try to get the results you guys are talking about and you are both correct. What is on there now is definitely slightly tacky and is way less slick than the bare cast iron top.
What I have been using that doesn't need any other effort than spraying is Superlube Dri-Film. But I suspect this product may have silicone, which is supposed to be a no-no for wood contact.
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-MIKE-

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On 7/18/11 2:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Apparently it does not contain silicone. I'm going to try this on the saw top..... which I'm beginning to recollect I may have already done and posted about a while back. Memory's the first to go, they say.
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-MIKE-

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I picked up a wood slicer blade and the wood turner's blade from Highland. What a difference these blades make. I had the one from the riser kit on for a little while (to make sure everything worked before buying blades), and it had a definite lead and sawed poorly out of the box. The Woodslicer and Wood Turner's blade have no discernable lead and cut through the wood quite easily.
I had forgotten to adjust the upper guides with the wood slicer on, and it still cut perfectly.
Thanks for the tip.
Puckdropper
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On 7/12/2011 3:28 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

I would suggest installing ceramic guides over roller bearing guides.
For serious resawing I use a 1.25" blade with 1.2 TPI. Fewer teeth is the main focus.

That is generally all you have to do with the better HD band saws. Smaller, less rigid saws tend to have to be treaked more.
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@swbelldotnet says...

Releasing blade tension when not in use is not "tweaking". And "the better HD band saws" do need the blade tension and guides adjusted when you change blade widths. If you have to adjust them for every cut something is wrong.
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On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:

Did any one say anything about not releasing the blade tension? No, only you. It is not at all unusual for the cheaper built BS's to have to be tweaked "during" a cutting operation.
Did any one say you have to tweak for every cut? No only you. I said the smaller less ridgid saws tend to have to be tweaked more.
Many BS's are not sturdy enough to hold the upper wheel tilt setting through out a cutting operation. Yes their frames bend from the blade tension. Read that as a 20-30+ minute cutting operation. Basically many cheaper BS's are not built strongly enough to hold their settings.
And FYI upper end HD band saw's DO NOT necessarily need to have the guides adjusted when going from a narrower blade, adjusted for that blade, to a wider blade. In fact the upper end HD BS's can easily run with out guides at all. Yes they hold their tracking that well. Further I almost never have to readjust my upper wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" blade to a 1.25" wide blade and or back again. Try that on a just about any Home Depot grade BS. Blade tension on HD BS's is much much less of a necessary adjustment, the blade tends to cut as well at one blade tension setting as another setting for the same blade. So when you have been running the saw for 20-30= minutes or during a resawing operation and the blade becomes longer because of the heat build up retensioning and upper wheel tilt adjustment during the operation is not generally needed.
So to requote the OP's paragraph,
>>>I had used one back in high school, but it was usually just a turn >>>it on and make a cut operation. There was no thought given to blade >>>tension, guide adjustment other than height, etc.
This is exactly what I do with my HD BS. I don't worry about blades cooling off, getting hot, readjusting, etc. I tension the blade at the beginning of the day and release the tension at the end of the day.
So why don't you purchase a HD series MiniMax, Laguna or similar BS and compare it to "YOUR" BS and see which one you want to use more and get back to us with your findings.
Feeding concluded.
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wrote:

Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy. You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you don't see the crap they spew.
-- Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort. -- Franklin D. Roosevelt
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On 7/13/2011 9:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:

But the trouble with totally ignoring, some one, a newbe, might believe what they have to say.
So when he makes a false statement in regard to what I have said, he is going to be called on it and corrected.
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wrote:

If you had him filtered, you wouldn't have seen it and it wouldn't have bothered you. And newbies learn the hard way that they shouldn't listen to the trolls, so what's the harm. PHAFH.
-- Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort. -- Franklin D. Roosevelt
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