Epoxy, PVA, yellow, Gorilla Glue or something else?

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With all due respect, I don't agree. Epoxy is the choice for loose joints. Put too much clamping pressure on the wooktop glue-up and you squeeze out the epoxy and starve the joint and the epoxy fails where plain old PVA or Aliphatic Resin glue will do just fine. I love epoxy in loose mortise & tenon joints, but for a panel glue-up, give me plain old water based glue any time (aliphatic resin or PVA).

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Max Mahanke wrote:
> With all due respect, I don't agree.
If you disagree with the statement that epoxy is the best adhesive available, then we will have to agree to disagree.
> Epoxy is the choice for loose joints.
One of the benefits of filled epoxy is that it will fill gaps if properly applied, but not one of it's limitations.
> Put too much clamping pressure on the wooktop glue-up and you squeeze out > the epoxy and starve the joint and the epoxy fails where plain old PVA or > Aliphatic Resin glue will do just fine.
A little difficult to blame the tool if it is improperly applied.
> I love epoxy in loose mortise & > tenon joints, but for a panel glue-up, give me plain old water based glue > any time (aliphatic resin or PVA).
Do you need epoxy for probably 80% of all wood working applications?
Heavens NO, but if you need epoxy, there is no substitute except when working with white oak, then it is rescorcinol time.
My comments were aimed at addressing the epoxy cost issue.
The plans for the project called for epoxy.
Yes, epoxy is more expensive than other adhesives; however, as a percentage of the total cost of the project, it gets lot in the wash.
My point is that if you want to try to save money on a project, look to other areas other than the adhesive used.
Lew
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Hi Lew, That is good logic. Since the plans call for epoxy first, then PVA or yellow as alternatives with shorter working times, and because some of the guys suggested it, I went with the Titebond II. It was in the plan and I saved a bit of cashola. And because I'm using the Titebond, I'm gluing up smaller sections. I figgered I could run them through a planer to flatten them out and then assemble 'em. I like your idea to take it to a commercial top shop for them to sand it flat though. Now, do you mean a counter top place, or something else? Like I said in an earlier post, I'm a rookie at this stuff...having fun, but wanting to do it right. Thanks, Pete

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Pete Stolz wrote: > Hi Lew, > I like your idea to take it to a commercial > top shop for them to sand it flat though. Now, do you mean a counter top > place, or something else? Like I said in an earlier post, I'm a rookie at > this stuff...having fun, but wanting to do it right.
A commercial drum sanding shop. Need sombody with a 48", 3 belt machine.
A couple of passes and there done.
Try to work a deal where they run you piece thru when they are doing another job.
Will take longer but cost less.
Enjoy.
Lew
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Great thanks. I'll give that a shot.

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wrote:

David Marks would use "A long setting plastic resin glue."
Urea Formaldehyde (sp) glue. I've been looking for a local supplier in KY with no luck.
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On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 18:42:25 GMT, Modat22 wrote:

I got Unibond 800 from Vacupress, http://www.vacupress.com
--
Art


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Art Greenberg wrote:

dave
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On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 12:06:24 -0800, David wrote:

I believe that UF glue is a plastic resin glue.
--
Art


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