Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as possible to complete kitchen drawer work.
Would a good blast with a hair dryer or hot air gun make any significant difference to the drying time which i understand is normally 24 hours.
I find general purpose pva is dry enough to hold itself in an hour, but not= strongly. Wood type PVAs are much faster. Heat would dry it quicker, but I= 'm not sure how you'd get the heat into the joint. Often other fixings, eve= n if weak, are adequate until the glue dries.
NT
But thats not a glue that dries that fast.
On balsa I would say it was handleable in less than an hour - had some strength.
Get some titebond3. You can take the job out of clamps inside an hour to set aside to dry fully and use your clamps again speeding up the work. Bob
Everbuild D4 is also good from Toolstation - claims 10 minutes drying time(?)
I can't think why you'd need quick dry glue for kitchen drawers. Don't forget the old fashioned hot animal glue, that sets in seconds.
NT
Well it does but can warp the thing in my experience, it also seems to pong a lot as well.
Not sure its going to be that strong either.
Brian
If I were trying to glue as quickly as possible I would use a polyurethane glue, not PVA. Also has the advantage that PU does not wet the wood, whereas PVA is water based. Gettign experienced using PU is a bit of a challenge. First timers use too much and then it squirts out everywhere like shaving foam. Experience teaches you how little is needed.
Sold in various places, Screwfix own brand, Gorilla Glue, Ever Build, D4, LumberJack all much the same. It has the advantage of being gap filling and sets within 10 minutes.
Probably worth the trip out to Screwfix or Toolstation to buy some rather than pissing about with PVA if speed is of the essence.
Heat will help. Using a glue with good tacifiers in it like Titebond will work better as well.
Depending on exactly what you are glueing, many kitchen fitters cheat and use a medium viscosity CA glue and the accelerant spray. I find using that I can assemble coves and mitres etc and make them handleable inside a minute!
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Thanks. Spoke to technical advice telephone line at Bostic/Evostick (now the same company) and asked them about stopping it drying up and they said nothing could be done and knew nothing about putting in the fridge or freezer.
I asked them that with the sealant-gun tubes of the adhesive, can anything be done to stop it drying, and they said only put some cling film over the end before screwing on the nozzle and also some cling film under the nozzle screw tip.
Its strange they should mention cling film, since if you want to keep air/gas in (or out in this case) plastic they insert metal molecules into the plastic; which is why kid's helium balloon are silver and as are 'long-life' loaf bags in the supermarket. So silver bread bags would make more sense than cling film? Would they not know this? I'm also wondering if it best not to use the long nozzle at all on the gun tubes and just screw on a small cap straight on to the tube...less convenient but also less volume containing air ?
I'm not sure what prompted this, but if you want to keep PU adhesive after opening it, cling film as they say. The glue will form a plug in the nozzle. Either use a new nozzle or dig out the plug before re-use.
But you don't have to use sealant gun type cartridges and Gorilla Glue and the cheap Toolstation version of the same are sold in bottles that have an air-tight cap. They will stay liquid much longer than the sealant cartridges.
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IME to keep moisture & gases etc reliably in/out of film based containers you need a "layer" of (usually) Alu foil in the film's construction. This "real deal" (think astronaut food packs) is somewhat more expensive & a little harder to work with due to its rigidity.
The shiny metallised foils you mention are no good long term but they do look flash for the marketeers.
Kids helium balloons - the day/few days *after* the party - are usually flacid & don't float only having air left in them as the helium has escaped through the pores in the material.
Jim K
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IME to keep moisture & gases etc reliably in/out of film based containers you need a "layer" of (usually) Alu foil in the film's construction. This "real deal" (think astronaut food packs) is somewhat more expensive & a little harder to work with due to its rigidity.
The shiny metallised foils you mention are no good long term but they do look flash for the marketeers.
Kids helium balloons - the day/few days *after* the party - are usually flacid & don't float only having air left in them as the helium has escaped through the pores in the material.
Jim K
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So aluminium cooking foil might be the answer?
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