Gorilla Glue

Is there a good, quick, solvent for removing all traces of Gorilla Glue from objects it has been mistakenly covered with ?

Jim Hawkins

Reply to
Jim Hawkins
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bAZ

Reply to
Baz

Angle grinder, IOW

michael adams

...

Reply to
michael adams

Thanks, Baz. Acetone it is.

Jim Hawkins

Reply to
Jim Hawkins

nope ..... an over application on wood is easy enough to remove with a sharp chisel ... if it has been smeared, then mechanical removal, and it will have soaked into grain.

On your hands, once dust and dirt have touched it ... only way to remove is scrubbing brush, soap & hard work.

Reply to
Rick Hughes

When wet, expanding foam cleaner (basically acetone). Available in half litre aerosols from TS/SF etc.

Reply to
John Rumm

I was half expecting that to be an Arthur Brown video.

Reply to
Andy Burns

Back in the early 80s, I made a batch of instrument necks by sandwiching a pre-cut aluminium blank between two pieces of timber, using epoxy. (Apart from the sonic effects, I was interested to find out if it was quicker to hand-carve a profile down to a predetermined pattern than to keep measuring as I went along) AFAIK the ones out in the "wild" are still going strong and the couple I have kicking around the house certainly are.

I understood that the problem with gluing aluminium was the oxide coating that formed on the surface so my approach was to glue the wood surfaces then use an abrasive on the aluminium faces immediately before clamping it all together.

By the way, I am aware of the failure of epoxy/aluminium joints in WWII aircraft but I suspect they were subject to way more stress than my guitar and mandolin necks.

Nick

Reply to
Nick Odell

No pores.

Bill

Reply to
Bill Wright

But the Gorilla has paws instead

Reply to
Bob Minchin

I thought that expanding foam and gorilla glue were much the same thing. No?

Reply to
Windmill

My initial 'tests' were unintentional - some glue oozed onto the aluminium without being noticed. But it was easy to remove, which suggested that the plan to use it later on Al would be a mistake.

The advertising blurb says otherwise!

Reply to
Windmill

That could be the clue to correct gluing. You certainly have to use some method of gettting through the oxide when attempting a solder joint.

Reply to
Windmill

Thanks. Have to look for that next time I get the chance.

Reply to
Windmill

2 part epoxy is best, polyuretane is no good as it cant soak into any grain in the metal.
Reply to
Rick Hughes

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