Does anyone have any experience with Gorilla glue? I'm repair an
antique and need to glue some blocks on the bottom of it for the
casters. I only want to use glue because that's what was used
originally and I want to keep it as original as possible. Just
wondering if the glue will hold or is there a better alternative.
Yes and it (like all of the polyurethanes) sucks for the purpose...
I foams and while it will certainly hold (although tests in FWW and
elsewhere show that it isn't as strong as good ol' yellow glue) the only
reason to use it would be for a location that needs the waterproof
It certainly doesn't fit on keeping an antique "as original as possible".
Depending on how antique an antique this is and whether it was machine-
or hand-manufactured, the likely candidates would be hide glue or one of
the early manufactured glues if factory-produced.
For repair and conservation work, folks tend to use the hide glues as
they can be removed if necessary for further restoration or repair in
If you're really concerned to that level of detail, that would be my
recommendation. If you're seriously thinking of using Gorilla glue,
though, that doesn't sound like the case so just get some yellow
carpenters glue and use that. Make the area to be glued clean and dry
and a glue block can be fitted simply by rubbing it in place until the
glue "sticks" and it will hold w/ a bond as strong as the wood or
stronger if clean and surfaces fit smoothly.
My experience has been that the Gorilla Glue is stronger than any wood
to which I have applied it. Its strong stuff. The moisture ressance after
cure is helpful.
I've had equally good experience with aliphatic resin glues and I suspect
Gorilla Glue is just a variation on one of these.
Even Elmer's carpenters glue is equally strong if moisture after cure is
not an ssue,
and if the possble unsightly glue puddles with the Elmers are not an
Careful working habits will avoid most of those problems, which can also
with the Gorilla Glue, too, if you are sloppy.
Gorilla glue is a polyurethane...
Somewhat surprisingly, in the glue test FWW did a couple of months ago,
the polyurethane came in at an average strength of 58% of that of the
Type I pva which was the strongest. That said, most of the joint
failures tested with all glues were either wood or wood/glue combined
failures with only a small fraction of the loose-fitting joints being
100% glue failure. But, of those which were, the polyurethane was the
Cleanup of the water soluble glues is much simpler than the
polyurethanes which need acetone or another solvent and the foaming
characteristic is a major detriment to their use in my book for anything
not absolutely requiring the waterproof (as opposed to water resistant)
Actually, once the "poly u" glues set, the only way to remove the stuff is
by mechanical means (scraping, sanding). If you don't use the acetone
within a few minutes of getting it on your fingers it will have to be peeled
On Sep 15, 10:38 am, "JimmyDahGeek@DON'T_SPAM_ME_gmail.com"
Not that it relates to your intended usage, but here's my experience
with it. I used it on several items made from pressure treated wood,
said items sat outside on the ground. All the glued joints came apart
within a year. Don't know if the problem was the glue, the PT wood, or
the ground contact, but it sure didn't work like I expected.
Hard to say w/ no more information as to how the joints were
constructed, loadings, etc., but my guess would be that unless the
mating surfaces were prepared to expose fresh wood and unless the
material was either kiln-dried initially or allowed to dry before
assembly the treatment would be the prime culprit. However, the actual
strength of the polyurethane glue in the FWW test was, as noted, quite a
bit less than for any of the others in their physical strength tests and
most particularly where the joints were made specifically to be somewhat
loose to test the "gap-filling" ability. In that case, rather than
having only about 60% on average of the strength of the top-rated PVA,
it was only about 25-30% in a direct comparison of similar joint
construction and woods.
To get a good joint, both surfaces have to be flat and smooth. And it would
be nice to be able to clamp them after application.
I am guessing that the bottom of your legs are not flat, and you probably
can't clamp either.
On the other hand, this sounds like a pretty low stress situation, so a
great joint isn't necessary.
Gorilla glue will fill gaps and does not need to be clamped. However it
will not be very strong under those circumstances. But, it might well work
for your purpose. Unfortunately it also foams out the side of the joint,
and the foam is hard to get off without sanding. That might make it
I would use epoxy. It fills gaps, doesn't need to be clamped, and doesn't
foam. It is expensive.
You didnt mention if the place you're gluing the blocks to had been
previously finished. Neither gorilla glue nor yellow glue will stick
well to a finished surface. They both need a clean, raw, wood to wood
contact to work well. If thats what you have, I'd use yellow glue
before I'd consider gorilla glue.
It is a curious sounding item.....a table? How old? If it is a very
old piece, it might have been glued with some form of hide glue. Wood
glue would be my choice without knowing more. I can't imagine an
antique, even though not bearing much weight, having casters that fit
into a piece held only with glue. Sure it's not an add-on?
On Sep 15, 11:38 am, "JimmyDahGeek@DON'T_SPAM_ME_gmail.com"
The glue will hold . Sand the bottom and wet the surfaces (damp)
before using the glue. It must be clamped as the glue will foam. Once
hard. cut and sand the foam off and stain /fimish the area.
The glue is very agressive but is a excellemt product. Other products
will work as well. You did not indicate the type of antique you are
gluing to and how it will be used with teh casters.
As others point out, it is a polyurethane which foams on curing. In my
experience, polyurethanes do not have the stability of older glues and
degrade over time. I personally would not use it on an item that I would
want to keep around for a long time.
Crosslinked, or cured resins are not soluble in solvents but may be
plasticized, or absorb enough solvent to soften and be able to be
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