Don't have clamps big enough...

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I need to make a 76" table top, 16" wide out of plywood, with "breadboard" ends. My biggest clamps are 72", and it is tough to justify buying bigger clamps for one project.
There will be drawers under the center of the table; so I could screw a cleat into the center of the table and clamp from the cleat to the end with 4' clamps. I could even do both ends at the same time, so the clamps are opposing each other, rather than just pulling on the cleat. (I suppose I could also make the ends 6" and glue one on normally first, and then use the cleat for the second.)
Any comments on this? Will being slightly off axis make much difference? Any other suggestion on how to clamp 78"?
Obviously I could use veneer edging tape, but will not look so great.
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I just put two clamps together to make one long one.
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email) http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)
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Can you attach multiple pipe clamps together end to end with $.99 couplers?
Barry
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If you are using old style pipe clamps, you can turn the ends 90 degrees to clamp both ends like you suggest, with no problems. Otherwise, you could try using scrap boards (2x4's or whatever) with cleats on each end. Between the cleats and the breadboard, tap in wedges to tighten everything up until the glue dries. I've used both methods before, and they seem to work equally well.
Good luck, Rob
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Rob West wrote:

"breadboard"
bigger
screw a

end
clamps
first, and

difference?
great.
degrees to

could
Between
until
I believe you can also buy just the heads and feet of a sash clamp and then provide your own shaft of suitable length to make any length clamp you want.
FoggyTown
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Or you could just get a longer pipe.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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I recently made a table with breadboard ends and didn't even need clamps. I put three pins (1/4" dowels) in each end. What I did was drill the holes for pins in the end-cap piece first, then slightly offset (1/64" - 1/32") the holes in the tenon. That way when you pound in the pins, it will draw the two pieces together. When I did it the joint was very tight and simply didn't need any clamps.
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with
the
Longer pipes?
--

-Mike-
snipped-for-privacy@alltel.net
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Pipe clamps.
Pipe clamps, and a bunch of three- and four-foot pipes (that's a good handy size). And a few pipe couplers so you can combine sections to make seven- or eight-foot clamps.
It's cheaper (a LOT cheaper) to buy ten-foot sections of pipe at a home center, than to buy two four-foot sections. And they'll cut and thread them at no charge, too. I'd suggest buying five, ten-foot pieces. Have one of them cut 5 & 5, two cut 6 & 4, and two cut 4, 3 & 3. This will give you four each of 3- and 4-foot clamps, and two each of 5- and 6-foot clamps. With appropriate couplers, you can build clamps of almost any size you want.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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wrote:

"breadboard"
bigger
handy
them
them
each
.... provided that that they can also thread all those pipe ends for you too, or you have the faculties to do it yourself.
Dave
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[snip]
[snip]
Didja see the part where I said that the home centers would cut *and* thread the pipes at no charge? It's certainly true at Lowe's and Home Depot, anyway. I've had it done both places. Matter of fact, I have *never* encountered any hardware store, home center, or plumbing supply house that would cut pipe to length but *not* thread it. Some won't thread it for *free*, but IME every place that cuts it will also thread it.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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When I had it done for my glorious $2.99 HF 1/2" pipe clamps, it was a local single business, cheaper than any borg or other single business, both cutting and threading was done on the same machine for free. Only the cost of the pipe.
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not sure if you can justify the cost for a couple of these, but you might and they would do the job very well:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)04852126/sr=1 -19/ref=sr_1_19/002-5496868-6654455?v=glance&s=hi
or
http://tinyurl.com/6yjrs
Mike

with
the
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On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 15:23:46 GMT, "Mike in Mystic"

Penn State has "comparable" clamps for about 1/2 that price: http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PSI&Category_Code=CLEC
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Has anyone actually used these? I am a bit concerned about how "non-marring" they really are, since the plywood won't allow much sanding.
Thanks
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just use a couple short bar clamps to hold a strip of 1/4" masonite or something along the top and bottom edges of the table end where you will use the clamps. This would keep the clamping parts off the table surface. I haven't actually used these types of clamps, though, but remembered them and they seemed like what you need. Igor's heads up about the PS version seems a cost-effective approach.
Mike

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I haven't used them either. I was just saying that if that type of clamp that Mike mentioned was of interest to you then PS sells one like it for less.
Here is another possible approach from PS for edge pressure, even though it is not the application they show. If you have bar clamps that can reach past the breadboard ends ...
http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PSI&Product_Code=S-PPP&Category_Code=CLPP
It's also much less expensive. My sense is that you might not be able to generate quite as much edge clamping pressure, but for the breadboard end how much force does one need? Anyway, it would seem to help you meet your marring concerns -- it would be the pads on your bar clamps (and their pressure) that would dictate. Then again, maybe this bar clamp approach could create more marring (dents) since you would need to tighten the bar clamps to grab onto the table top and bottom while the specially-designed edge clamps use a cam. I don't know. BTW, I haven't used these either -- yet. I did buy a set of 4 some time back when they had a clamp sale and I was close to the $100 free shipping deal they were offering. HTH. -- Igor
On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 20:39:17 GMT, "Mike in Mystic"

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toller wrote:

Build an inexpensive clamp. A cheap 2x4 stud with cleats 80" apart and a pair of wedges is effective, inexpensive, quick, and re-usable.
Want something fancier? Use a cleat on one end and a Lee Valley "Wonder Pup" or "Panel Clamp" on the other.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
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A longer board, cleats on both ends, and a couple of wedges. Why do you have to *buy* clamps when you can *make* them?
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Use the cheapest clamp ever. Get a length of rope, tie it in a loop and wrap it around your table. Tighten it by laying a stick across it and twist until you have the clamp pressure you need. Total cost? <$2.
Joe C.

with
the
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