Brad nailer - 18 ga. big enough?

[Pistol_Pete]

I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one, and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be building a bookcase/desk out of =BE=94 plywood (to be painted) and I'll be using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the backs of the bookcases (=BD=94 plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't =96 they will probably be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer, I will probably use 1 =BD=94 brads to attach the backs (with glue of course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier. I think =BE=94 or 5/8=94 brads of any diameter would be good for the trim but I question if 18 ga. x 1 =BD=94 would be big enough. The piece will be built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is the reason for using the =BD=94 plywood instead of =BC=94.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good for? Upholstery? Insulation?

[joeljcarver]

For trim, you'd be far better off with a 23-gauge pin nailer. I made the mistake at first of getting one that drove short pins and had to get a Grex that took 1 3/8" pins. I've also used it to attach face frames. (Of course you can use shorter pins with a larger capacity pin nailer.)

I've also seen staplers used on plywood casework that is going to be painted.

[whit3rd]

I like mine, have used it for lots of trim (mainly baseboard and carpentry trim). For furniture, the smaller pin drivers are sometimes preferred.

Good for MDF and other fiberboard products. It takes a lot of area (like the full crown of a staple) to hold in those weak materials without tearing out.

[Leon]

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer, I will probably use 1 ½? brads to attach the backs (with glue of course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier. I think ¾? or 5/8? brads of any diameter would be good for the trim but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½? would be big enough. The piece will be built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is the reason for using the ½? plywood instead of ¼?.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good for? Upholstery? Insulation?

A brad nailer will be good for the purposes you mentioned but no heavier of a job. Keep in mind that smaller gauge fastenerers, "brads" are more likely to deflect in the longer sizes, with harder woods and knots, and when shooting at an angle. The longest I ever shoot out of my brad nailer is

1.125". I do however thave the luxury of having a finish nailer if I need longer. I would not use a brad nailer for shelves, use it for light applications.

Concerning your question of attaching the 1/2" plywood 1.5" IMHO is way more than you need if you are going to glue also. If you shoot a 1" brad at a slight angle and go the same degree angle in the opposite direction every other nail you are going to lock every thing in nicely. Not much angle is needed, 2 or 3 degrees.

Concerning your method of hanging,,,, I would advise 1/4" in set 3/4". Immediately behind the 1/4" pywood at the top attach a 3/4" piece of wood the width of the cabinet. Attach to the wall through that material. You do not want to be hanging something to the wall by its pack panel alone.

There are few style staplers and they have more holding power than a brad but are unsightly. Use them where they will not be shown. It is common to attach backs with staples.

[Artemus]

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer, I will probably use 1 ½? brads to attach the backs (with glue of course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier. I think ¾? or 5/8? brads of any diameter would be good for the trim but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½? would be big enough. The piece will be built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is the reason for using the ½? plywood instead of ¼?.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good for? Upholstery? Insulation?

#1. A 23ga pin nailer will leave much smaller holes to fill in small trim pieces. They are mainly to hold things in place "until the glue dries" anyway.

#2. I bought a HF brad/stapler combo and took the POS back as it constantly jammed. I bought separate brad and staple pneumatic guns and haven't had a single jam with either. Staples are good for thin plywood as they provide much better tear out resistance. They're also good for fabric, cardboard, hardboard, screen, hardware cloth. Art

[Rich]

I like having the 16 and 18 gauge nailers. They sell these in combo's with the Air Compressors. Porter Cable comes to mind. I do a lot of trim, casement and cabinet work and I use these 2 nailers all the time, I'd be lost without them. Time is Money! Thought about a stapler but haven't really found an application where I'd use it. I don't do a lot with MDF most is ply hardwood and Poplar.

[Josepi]

Get a 16 Ga nailer. If you want to put baseboards on other heavy trim on you can shoot 2.5" nails with "T" heads and do a decent job and they won't fall off like the smooth 18 Ga. toys.

They will also shoot 18 gauge brads ("L" shaped heads) for smaller jobs until the glue dries.

I have about 6 of the 18 Ga. anilers. They give them a way with every compressor and accessorie package. The 16 Ga units you have to pay for as they actually work well.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer, I will probably use 1 ½? brads to attach the backs (with glue of course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier. I think ¾? or 5/8? brads of any diameter would be good for the trim but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½? would be big enough. The piece will be built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is the reason for using the ½? plywood instead of ¼?.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good for? Upholstery? Insulation?

[Larry W]

2 things: The combination stapler/nailers generally leave a larger "dimple" when used with brads than with the brad-only nailers. Not a big deal if they are only used in non-visible areas but more of a PITA if you are going to fill & finish over the brads.

Staples would be far superior to brads for attaching plywood backs to bookcases or cabinets (assuming again that the backs will be out of sight against a wall) It doesn't take much force for slight-head brads to pull right through plywood. If you are gluing the backs on it won't matter.

[HeyBub]

Yeah, it's big enough. Once you start using it, you'll wonder how you did without it. You can use it for installing baseboard trim and quarter-round. The brads seem to have microscopic serrations to prevent them from coming out - they are harder to remove than a plain nail.

Think about the head on a staple it is MUCH larger than the head on a finishing nail or brad. You'd use it where you need a gigantic head for cardboard, veneers, thin plywood, paper, cloth, etc.

[Steve B]

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer, I will probably use 1 ½? brads to attach the backs (with glue of course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier. I think ¾? or 5/8? brads of any diameter would be good for the trim but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½? would be big enough. The piece will be built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is the reason for using the ½? plywood instead of ¼?.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good for? Upholstery? Insulation?

It goes like this: Once you get one, you will find out that one does not go all things. Depending on what other things you do, you will probably end up with several. Each will do a specific duty, and do it to perfection, but the other will either be overpowered or wimpy. It is difficult to advise you what you need, because there are so many variables. You'll find out. The good thing is that they are not very expensive at pawn shops and yard sales, and even if you want to splurge at retail, they do such a good quality of work that you will wonder how you ever got along without one. You may have one that is only good for one very very specific task. That's the difference between a hacker and a craftsman. Using just the right tool.

Steve

visit my blog at

[Steve B]

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be thankful.

Steve

visit my blog at

[Larry Jaques]

For tiny trim pieces, use a 23ga pin nailer. For everything else, the

18ga is fine. I'm not a fan of the thicker 15ga nailers because they split trim and for heavy duty fastening, I like either headed nails or screws (my preference.)

pinner $18 stapler/nailer $20 (I've owned one for 8 troublefree years now and had a plain brad nailer for 5 before that.)

I use a 1/2" crown stapler for upholstery, and occasionally the 1/4" crown for screening and metal fabric fastening.

1/2" crown $20 (5 troublefree years now)

[Larry Jaques]

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont' want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.

[Steve B]

If you like shit, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that. Some day you'll work up to quality tools.

Steve

visit my blog at

[allen476]

brand 18ga. brad nailer and 1/4" crown stapler that I picked up on clearance when Woodworkers Supply went out of business. The only problem I have ever had with either of them is that the brads sometimes jam when loading partial strips. Otherwise they have served

10+ years without a complaint.

Sometimes it isn't the tool, it is what you are using with it. I only use Porter-Cable or Bostich brads, staples, or pins.

Allen

[J. Clarke]

If you're making your living with a nailer then perhaps there's some noticeable difference between the expensive brands and Harbor Freight, but for the average hobbyist or homeowner Harbor Freight air tools work fine.

Do you actually own a Harbor Freight nailer or are you trying to justify your own overspending?

[Steve B]

I have several HF products, and they are marginal because they don't last as long as brand names. They work, but they don't last, or the mechanisms become sloppy. As for overspending, I have bought new or almost new brand names at a local pawn shop for less than HF wants for theirs. Last thing I bought was a like new Karcher 2650OH 6hp Honda power washer for $50 with 50' of hose and five tips. HEAVY Rockwell 12" table saw $40. Craftsman 1.5 hp router, table, and set of 40 bits, $60. Skil 2 wheel bench grinder $15. All better than any HF comparable. BTW, I got a BRAND new PC pancake compressor, and two nail guns, and a pin nailer, all NEW, for $125 for the set, speaking of nailers.

Overspend? Who, me? Naw.

I did splurge yesterday for a Torx folding set for $8.

Steve

visit my blog at

[StephenM]

I had one of these:

dod not like it because for two reasons:

1. Periodic jams
2. No plastic nose protector.

Number 2 is the real reason why I own a bostich now. When installing door or window casings, it would leave a slight divot on the molding from just depressing the nose to enable the firing mechanism.

To me, that was unacceptable. It's not an issue for the backs of a cabinet, but a big deal on interior trim.

-Steve

[RonB]

#1 I used an 18ga for several years before I bought a 15ga for heavier work. The 18 is a good, all around nailer for day to day shop work and holding things together until glue dries. Granted, 22ga is better for trim work but the 18ga can handle slightly heavier jobs too. If you are going to hang a lot of trim I would recommend a 15ga nailer.

#2 Staples are a nice add-on but I would opt for a good 18# nailer and then go for a cheapo stapler. In addition to my Porter Cable 18ga and Bostich 15ga I sprung for a 18ga nailer/stapler a few years ago at Harbor Freight. Not the same quality as the other two but it gets the job done, proven durable; and it cost $20 at one of their entry display sales.

RonB

[J. Clarke]

Is any of them an air nailer?

After how many cycles?

Whether a Craftsman router is better than Harbor Freight is debatable. But I don't see where you have the same tools from HF and another brand, so on what basis do you compare?

Yeah, clearly you're a cheapskate.