Brad nailer - 18 ga. big enough?

I used all those 18Ga toys they supply with every pneumatic compressor and roll of toilet paper. They work great for stapling sheeting down but for baseboards and casings you need something that doesn't just hold until the glue dries. That takes some length on the fastener into real wood framing studs, not caulking to hold the baseboard on. With a 3/4" baseboard and 1/2" drywall on a slight angle you need one and a half inches of brad or pin to reach the framing. Now if you are OK with 1/4" of smooth pin holding you baseboard into a rough piece of spruce framing, twisting as it dries out than all you need is 1.75" pins and heads are required as there is no pulling ability anyway.

Get the 16Ga Paslode, as suggested by Robatoy and use it for 18Ga pretend nails until the glue dries. You will have a nailer for trimming rooms and actually holding thing together, also.

Next somebody can explain how they held 5.1/2" crown moulding up with the

"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote

I have a box nail gun - board - does up to 3 1/2" (IIRC) headed nail. They are the coil nailers and are often used in roofing. (sheet works).

tWith the guns I have, the coil guns used for roofing generally use larger headed nails, and therefore a wider spacing in the coil. I have coil framing nailers, and coil roofing nailers, and a wide crown roofing stapler.

The last one has been sitting since I got the coil roofing nailer. I wouldn't use a roofing staple on a doghouse. They set to an inaccurate depth, far too often, or back out. That is my experience with them, at least. That was with a roof sheathing consisting of random width SPF 1 by material. They are better in OSB or plywood, but when they hit a rafter or truss, they will often not set as deep as is necessary, causing the roofing applier to crawl back on a roof to renail several shingles-for years to come. DAMHIKT! :-(

"Josepi" wrote in news:0L28o.60850$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe12.iad:

Ask the guy who built the wall over at Doug's place.

Puckdropper

Poor Steve. You just don't realize that -most- tools, including all your pricy name-branded schtuff, are made in China _anyway_, and are then priced 4x up for the name-brand. If you want to waste your money for a label, go right ahead. Some day you'll wise up. ;)

For daily/critical tools, I buy known better products, such as the Bosch and Makita impactors. For the rest, I buy decent tools for a lot less money and they work flawlessly for me.

You realize that all those items were boosted out of the back of someone's garage or truck the night before, don't you? Pawn shops are notorious for hot items, and the prices indicate that in your (LV, right?) area.

Price is only loosely correlated with good.

And if that's the case, he could buy 3 and sell them for $10 each (or donate them somewhere) when they slop out. He's still below the name-brand price tag. 3ea HF nailers and 3ea 5k boxes of nails cost less than a single Bostich or PC nailer.

It's what the Borg and Lowes here sell for dimensional lumber.

My old spring stapler does just fine, as does the HF pneumatic stapler. This thing is *WIMPY*.

Send me the $100, otherwise I'll put it in someone's garage sale and hope for $5. ;-) ...or the garbage, if I have to look at it too many more times.

Hey, _that_ is no systainer.

Thankee..Handy thing that. Maple ply, taped edges.

On Aug 8, 5:44=A0pm, Pistol_Pete wrote: I found the18 GA nail gun to be a bit light and went with the 15 GA for case work. But the 18 GA would work for tri - but those who do a lot of fine trim work would likely recommend the lighter GA pin nailer. No heads as I understand it so less putty/filler and sanding . . . If you can only afford the one, a good 18GA 'l do ya

OH, make SURE your guns have a DEPTH ADJUSTMENT!

Not for insulation - well, if the depth adjustment allows you to set on and not drive through the paper backing I suppose it would work. I use a hammer stapler T50's 3/16 deep for installing insulation in walls.

They work where nails work. I've used them everywhere I can imagine. I've ONLY used quarter-inch crown staples in a pneumatic gun. And, I suspect, that is the kind used by guns that shoot either brads or staples.

One caution, they can "blow a leg out" and surprise you - and, then, getting them out is tough.

I recently had my roof professionally replaced. They used the staplers with 3.5" staples to attach plywood sheeting only. A coiled roofing nailer was used for the shingles.

You talking about the OCD specialist in everybody's killfilter list?

Puckdropper

The packaging on the 50 year GAF shingles I put on my garage a couple of years back stated explicitly that the warranty was void if they were attached with staples.

Mine did too. Forget the brand but not GAF. Staples rip the shingles through too easily.

Even power nailers area problem with the two layer shingles. The impact past the edge of the second layer tend to rip through the upper layer where the hollow spot is. Warranty void again.

Who in the world are you responding to?

The OP did not ask about attaching base board to a wall. He wants to attach trim to a furniture. Again a finish nail gun on furniture may be your cup of tea along with distressed furniture, which is what you are going to get if you build furniture with a finish nail gun.

And I again ask why not go with a framing nailer and be done with it??

"Larry Jaques" wrote

Yabbut, Lar, there's no cachet value in those chea.....uh.........low pric.........uh......implements. I wear a disguise when I go to HF.

Max

Perhaps you need to reread the OP's questions and try to stay on the topic posted, instead of attempting a moronic overexageration distraction.

My recommendation stands.

The OP did not ask about attaching base board to a wall. He wants to attach trim to a furniture. Again a finish nail gun on furniture may be your cup of tea along with distressed furniture, which is what you are going to get if you build furniture with a finish nail gun.

And I again ask why not go with a framing nailer and be done with it??