How to trim widows with arch (semi-circle) top?

We have one window in the center of our second story that is different than all the rest, and I cannot figure out how we should trim it. (We're using vinyl siding.) Here's a link to our front elevation, but please understand that the semi-circle window on top is a true semi-circle, which is not accurately depicted in the drawing. Here's a link:

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All of our rectangular double-hung windows will have 1x4 (1x3.5) flat siding. It's actually a white vinyl Rollex product with a built-in J channel. And we're using sage green "double 4" style vinyl siding.

For this arched window in the center, I know we won't be able to exactly match the other windows, so I figure the best look will be to set the center window off from the rest with trim that is slightly more ornate. I assume some sort of Fypon trim pieces should be used, but I'm not sure exactly what. A lot of that Fypon stuff looks a little too Colonial for my tastes, and we're trying to make this look like a farmhouse-type of style. And it's complicated by the fact that the trim needs to have some sort of J channel since we're using vinyl siding. Ideally the trim would have J channel built in to cover up the edges of the vinyl siding, but I suppose we could add Rollex's white flexible J channel around the trim.

Any ideas of where to go for some examples or how-tos? Suprisingly Fypon's site/catalog are not that helpful due to a lack of close-up high-res photos and limited examples in the "gallery."

If I had my way, I'd use the same Rollex 1x3.5 vinyl trim on the bottom and sides of the square part of the window ensemble, and then do something more ornate on the round part that is at least as thick as the Rollex so that the Rollex can die into the top trim. (The Rollex trim is hollow, so having the top trim hang over is probably necessary for shedding water.) And maybe there could be some kind of end cap between the top arch trim and the Rollex trim. But I don't know what. I wish there was an expert on the subject who is very familiar with the Fypon products that I could just pay to design something, but nobody seems to have that expertise.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, John

Reply to
Sasquatch
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"Sasquatch"> wrote

Duh. You're a spammer that is out of his element. If you want to learn how to trim windows get your fat ass out in the field and learn how to do it first hand and quit making yourself look like a pathetic, whiney loser on the internet already. sheesh.

Or go ask your purchased w**re, the so called *designer* of your hideous monstrosity.

Reply to
Don

Fypon makes decorative arch moldings, check their online catalog in the window trim section. I'm sure there are many other companies that do. I would have expected your architect to specify a product if he designed it into the plans. They can also custom make moldings using their stock items as a starting point. You will need to coordinate one of their arch moldings with the window size to use them, perhaps having the factory machine a custom inside radius to match your window if required.

Fypon machines easily. I used their fluted pilasters alongside my front door, and routed a 3/4" x 5/8" channel along the outside edges to accept the siding directly without any J channel, it makes a world of difference. I route all the door trim I install to accept the siding, I try to never use J channel, it is ugly.

If you find one of their arch moldings to be suitable, the factory should be able to trim the radius and route a recess around the outer edge (providing there is enough stock at that point) if you don't want to do it on site.

-- Dennis

Reply to
DT

"DT"> wrote

Therein lies Veith's dilema. He bought a cheap *stock* plan, then he hired a coupla horz to work it through the system and ever since he's been whining about his shortcomings. Every few days he comes around here begging the professionals to bail him out and when they offer sound advice he insults them. He's a despicable person through and through. Rico saw through his cheap fascade almost immediately, some of us took a little longer to recognize him for what he is. Within 6 months after the house is completed his wife is going to kick him to the curb and make him pay for the house. LOL

Reply to
Don

I agree. I hate J channel. I don't mind the stuff that matches the color of the siding and is used along gables and soffits, but to put it around window trim is definitely something to avoid. I think we're definitely going to figure out a Fypon ensemble that is thick enough on the outer edge to router away a 5/8" or 3/4" notch. Thanks for the advice. The questions is *which* fypon pieces will look best.

Thanks, John

Reply to
Sasquatch

Figure it out yourself. Your 'architect' should be doing this, unless you pissed him off. I've had clients like that, especially ones that show up with a stock plan to be modified. "Look, most of the work has already been done". Reworking a stock plan usually takes longer than starting from scratch, and is a lot less fun. EDS

Reply to
eds

"eds"> wrote

Correct. But the cheapskates don't realize this until after the things done. They underestimate the effort required to assemble a quality set of drawings and believe a $600 set of stockplans will be their stairway to heaven. In the end they have spent several times as much trying to get everything to come out alright and the net result is a botched building that looks like an aborted zygote.

The Pella windows I installed in my office/workshop yesterday already had the siding channels built in to them, cause I ordered them that way. But then again, I'm one of those worthless, expensive design professionals that doesn't know what I'm talking about cause I've made 4000 usenet posts since 1994. I bet I've made a fair amount of spelling errors and no doubt I've been called Hitler a time or two too. LOL

Reply to
Don

That is a question for whoever is responsible for the design.

Reply to
Michael Bulatovich

You were the 13,000 one in that post, and actually you have a fair bit more than that. :O

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Do you mean the person who is responsible for actually designing it, or the person who is responsible for approving the design?

You know how it goes - if it comes out well, everyone wants credit. If it doesn't work, everyone wants to distance themselves from the responsibility.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Whatever. The people that interest themselves in that sort of thing also pry into the personal lives of their neighbors and in general just try to mind other peoples business. I have little use for such animals.

Reply to
Don

Yeah, I could have ordered my Weathershield Visions 2000 windows with built-in "brick moulding" and J channel, but the moulding is only 2 inches wide, not 3.5 inches like the rest of the windows, and it looks like ass. Whoever uses that crap has terrible taste.

- John

D> The Pella windows I installed in my office/workshop yesterday already had

Reply to
Sasquatch

"Whoever is responsible for the design" would be me, since it's my house. I've hired people to assist with various parts of the design process, but ultimately I'm responsible for it, and I'm the one that makes the decisions. Likewise, for this trim decision, I will seek advice from experts, including paid advice, but it will be my decision.

- John

Michael Bulatovich wrote:

Reply to
Sasquatch

What are you talking about, you hypocrite?!? You psychos are the ones who review *my* history of posts and follow my posting activity, harrassing me along the way, like some sort of stalkers. Sounds like you're trying to deflect or transfer your own behavior onto others, which is common for people who are ashamed of their behavior. And you should be. Sickos. Pathetic.

- John

D> "RicodJour"> wrote

Reply to
Sasquatch

They ya go again, acting like a ladyboy thats soiled himself. Go change your diaper and clean yourself up, loser. LOL

Reply to
Don

Veith is talking about *terrible taste*. Thats rich. Go clean yourself up ladyboy. LOL

Reply to
Don

I meant whoever designed it, not the person who hired him/her, or the one who approves their work. I don't know what it is about architecture that makes some people think that because they buy the design, that they are somehow responsible for it. In other markets the line between consumer and designer is still pretty distinct. If I buy an Aston Martin, it doesn't mean that I am responsible for it's design, unless I get into some heavy customization. (God forbid!) In such a case the final product is clearly a hybrid of sorts, and the responsibility for it is muddied. It's also likely to be a monstrosity, IMHO.

Specifying materials and their assembly is a big part of design. If you are the designer, then the specification of this and other details would be your job (responsibility). I understand being somewhat unsure about using one thing or approach versus another, and wanting to ask for a second opinion. That happens to me often, and that give and take is the basis of a working design studio. It's the thing I miss most about working solo. I still bounce stuff off my wife and my buddies, in these cases.

If you are the designer, asking strangers to pick a specific product from a vast catalogue, or from several catalogues, for an application is a bit different though. Isn't it? The starting point is too far back in the process.

IMHO the process you've sketched out cannot lead to a good design. It's too "Mr.-Potato-Head-by-committee", and will yield results in the usual contemporary vernacular range. If you want something special, someone who knows how to trim a circlehead window at least a couple of different ways should be responsible for the design from beginning to end. You can tell this sort of person from the pretenders by the quality of their drawings, and by their ability to draw in a number of different ways (Plan, section, elevation, perspective/volumetric). The pretenders will point, or wave their hands, but mostly talk. Their drawings are terrible, if they ever pick up a pen other than to sign checks.

Reply to
Michael Bulatovich

Uh-oh, now you did it. Veith is googlin your ass right now to see what kind of dirt he can dig up on you. LOL

Reply to
Don

I think you're confusing me with you, Don. And let's remember that all I did was click on your profile within this very Google Groups interface, check your number of posts, and skim a few to confirm that you're disruptive and anti-social as a rule. That's why Google Groups has a "profile" feature. You guys, on the other hand, read *all* of my past posts, follow me from group to group even when it is not relevant to you, and harrass me. So let's not transfer your anti-social behavior onto others, Don. You'll never get better that way. And try not to obsess over me like you do. I realize that I'm a fascinating individual, but it's not healthy. Get yourself a girlfriend. Or boyfriend, probably.

- John

D> Uh-oh, now you did it.

Reply to
Sasquatch

Good idea. Anyone who draws a circlehead should be able to trim it out.

Traditionals detailing has a vocabulary and a syntax that we in the modern-postmodern era have to study. Earlier generations of craftsmen knew this language better than today's, so it's not quite correct to say that people didn't spend money on design in those days. It's just that different people did it than today.

For example, when it comes to the porch, the first decision would be what kind of columns are we doing. That decision then steers the decision-making for the smaller elements. A full blown order with entablature deserves classical balusters, a simply-trimmed post does not. A quirky naive order would indicate a similar treatment for the smaller elements, while a rigorous classicism would prejudice the trim set differently. It's "all about context".

True enough. IMHO, the primary pitfall of pattern book solutions is that they can not respond to the particulars of a site or of a user. If every site and family was the same, one house design would be all we ever needed.

I look at the successes of other for that.

I know Fypon's stuff. In my jurisdiction, you would not require a guard for your porch by code. Given the fairly rustic look of the house, and only if the local codes and you family circumstance permit, I would forgo the guard, or go for a very low one (especially if the porch is deep enough to encourage furniture placement and socializing). I would definitely stay away from any Greco-roman balusters or profiles. I'd use humble pickets that don't 'out-do' the rest if the house.

Reply to
Michael Bulatovich

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