I need about 22 of them. 32" wide, 14" exposed to weather, thickness
1/8-3/16" (the vertical groove pattern accounts for the varying
thickness). If I can find a fiber-cement replacement 32" wide, they
would be okay if the pattern matches what I have.
Going to be tough, probably -- the asbestos replacements would have to
be salvaged from somewhere and matching an old pattern closely is
Would probably help to post a picture somewhere of what you've got.
Depending on where you are, the salvage/restoration kind of folks may
be best bet for the old stuff although not sure anybody is trying (or
even allowed?) to salvage the asbestos siding...
Also depending on what you actually have, I have a supply of the
asbestos siding shingles I've salvaged from various outbuildings and
saved for repair or perhaps re-use. I could spare roughly that many
but these are only 16" wide, not 32". Don't recall the overlap/
exposure, I'd guess it's about the same...
Shipping them is going to be your problem. I wonder what percent will
break in transit. And say they are concrete tiles, not asbestos, or
the shipper will freak out.
I agree that salvage is the best option. I think the OP should look
for falling down buildings and ask the owners. Or ask a siding
contractor to "acquire" some.
I just posted a photo in alt.binaries.test. Subject: Sample asbestos
shingle. Time 1:28, 5/8/2007. I should have mentioned that all the
shingles needing replacement are in the bottom course. (Careless lawn
maintenance people and landscapers.) They are mainly chipped, like you
see in the photo at the left bottom corner.
I live in central N.J.
I recommend that you run a piece of 1x4 along the bottom. That's my
standard solution for clients who don't like the cost of replacing siding.
If the wood is properly primed, caulked, and painted, it will last for
years, though not as long as cementitious shingles. When if fails, it's
easy to replace. Use cedar with the smooth side out for longer life.
Sounds like a great idea, especially since the damaged ones are the
inconspicuous ones along the sides and back of the house and do not face
the street or entry. Do you bevel the top, to improve water runoff, or
just rely on the bead of caulk? I'd have to predrill the asbestos
shingles every so often, right?
Could a J-channel that's normally used at the bottom of a vinyl siding
job serve the same purpose? One problem might be color if I tried
painting vinyl, but factory white would be acceptable. Yes, I know of
vinyl's shortcomings: brittleness over time, fading, etc.
I've never seen it beveled, but it wouldn't hurt.
As a second thought, use HardiTrim and it will never rot.
I suspect that making the J-channel look right would be difficult. It
might be obviously something just stapled on.
Yes, I'd pre-drill the asbestos shingles -- no sense breaking them more.
As an alternative, you can put them on with construction adhesive. You
might HAVE to do it that way if there's no wood behind the shingle where
you need the fastener.
Here I go following up to my own post.
I mentioned this to my dad over the weekend. He has a house with asbestos
His solution: Remove the chipped shingle, turn it over, drill new holes,
and nail it back on. The chipped edge will be hidden by the course above.
How to get it out w/o breaking it entirely is the trick??? Plus, how
to renail it unless do so below the line of the course above?
I'd surely like to know the way in which he accomplished this. I have
several buildings of the type and salvaged a large number from the old
barn when we restored it (no longer running the corrals directly
against that side of the barn so reverted to the original wood siding
the shingles were put on to protect) and would love to use some of
them to repair the existing but hadn't figured out a practical way to
do it w/o essentially starting over.
Of course, the "turn them upside down" trick doesn't work for the wavy
bottom pattern which these are, but I have plenty of new ones to use
for the repairs...
I've never had the fortune to work on a slate roof. I have a pretty
good idea how it is done on new work, but no real clue how one would
manage to repair/replace an existing one??? (Which, I gather would at
least be somewhat similar in that it is an overlapping, hidden
fastener, brittle material which is why the comparison).
The general technique is that you slide a skinny thing
under the slate to cut the nails holding it in,
and while the slate is out, you insert a hook
between (Or, if necessary, through) the slates that
will be under the new one the hook grabs the lower edge
of the new peice, and the slates/shingles around
it keep it from shifting sideways.
OK, step one I can get, thanks... Now --
What magic makes the hook the right length for the bottom of the new
tile to be in line w/ the proper course yet allow the new tile to be
under the course above? (Inquiring minds want to know....) :)
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