I have 4 foot spaced trusses. I am thinking of using white metal
siding like what is on the outsid eof my building inside for the roof.
(29 guage). What do you think? I will have to figure out how to lift
them up by myself and what would be the best way to protrude my
ceilign outlets. (I have 10 of them in the ceilign for my plug in shop
Would you use metal like this on the walls too? I would think it might
make it harder to heat/cool I dont know.
I used metal in my garage/shop. I love it. I did it in 14' pieces so
that a friend and I could lift it to screw it in. Once you get a
couple screws in, no problem with it hanging. My wife and I did the
walls. They are 10' high. Easy. Cutting out for the lights and such
takes a little time, but well worth it. You can order the metal in
lengths in 1 inch increments. I overlapped mine, but if you rent a
drywall lift, you could do it yourself and wouldn't have to overlap,
but it may be more critical when cutting out for lights and plugs.
The big benefits is you don't have to finish it, never paint it and
washes off easily. If damage occurs, just replace one panel in about
This will work fine. it's done a lot in my area. AND blow insulation
on top. As for the outlets, well take the boxes off the wire, drill
holes , poke the wire through, the mount the boxes on the metal and
reconnect the outlets.
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If you're talking about the walls.........you'll have to run
horizontal furring strips if you want the metal ridges go vertical
(like pole barns) which will look better and the ridges in the metal
won't collect dust. Depending on how high your walls are, you probably
won't need more than 3 horizontal furring strips running around the
It would be easier to flush-mount the outlets. That way you can place
them in-between the ridges. If you don't flush mount them, you'll have
to cut out the ridges which is a pain in the ass and wont' look right
You should be able to run the ceiling without furring strips without
any problem and will look good too. Again, flush mounting is easier
for lights and outlets.
My ceiling has blown in insulation and the walls have batts. No
increase in sound volume that I can detect, but I am going deaf
What about my electrical panel that is currently flush mounted between
I thought about either doing the walls in drywall or metal. The roof
definietly metal. How would the walls meet the ceiling? Do you have
For the ceiling.........
I hung the ceiling first. Then I installed "J" channel for the wall
metal to slide up-into. This will trim out the ceiling and also the
top of the walls. Looks good. You can buy metal J channel or you can
use vinyl. Vinyl is a little tighter, but works and looks just fine. I
used vinyl because I got it for free.
If the walls are standard 4" 2x4 on 8" block, you can buy whatis
called "Rat Guard" for the bottom. It is the same stuff they use on
barns and sold at the same place you get your Metal.
Electrical Panel..........again, just trim around the panel with J
J channel is your friend. :-)
I don't have any pics. I guess I could take some if you really need
them. I would need your email address.
Hank <~~~thinks metal is the only way to go
My panel is already mounted between studds. It has been inspected and
everything electrical done. I hat to do a new box just to surface
I guess I can surface mount the electrical outlets and switches.
You can always frame in around it with either J channel or wood trim
or something. If all the wires are coming into the box from the top,
just unscrew it and move it up and out. I am sure there is a simple
way to do it.
yes, just use handy boxes and surface mount them with sheet metal screws
and then put on metal cover plates. make sure you ground the box.
if you put insulation on top, i don't think you'll notice any noise
difference. If you don't, it may make some noise if you make a big
enough noise to make the metal rattle.
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On Friday, April 23, 2010 4:20:34 PM UTC-4, stryped wrote:
is it part of a attached garage, to home?
if so it must be fireproof, so a garage fire is contained to the garage and exhaust gasses cant migrate into living spaces.
if its a detached garage these items wouldnt matter so much
I would install wood strapping perpendicular to the bottom of the trusses,
then install regular drywall. It should be less expensive, easier to
install (cutting around outlet boxes and whatnot), and easier to repair if
You can rent a drywall lift to raise the sheets tight against the ceiling
so you can screw them to the strapping.
I would also take the time to install wiring and insulation if you haven't
done so already. It's a small cost and effort now, but it would be a big
job if you need to do it later.
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