I am needing advice and you guys are some of the smartest on the web.
As you know I have a 30x30 building with 10 foot ceilings. The
are 4 feet apart so I am not sure I can put a drywall ceiling. I plan
on drywalling the walls.
My thoughts are this, either a suspended ceiling with the 2x4 tile or
I thought of using the soffit material like that is used on the roof
of my porch. (The kind without vent holes). When I figured up the
for both they were very similar. (Not cheap).
We have suspended ceilings at work and when new they look good but
whenever there is a roof leak or something they get ugly looking
stains on the tiles and the tiles are not cheap. Also, I am a little
worried about the humidity messing with those tiles over time. Also,
when I read the literature, it said to plan on 20 hours of labor to
a suspended ceiling for a 9x14 room! Since I have to work myself, I
cant image how long it would take to do a 30x30.
So, I have gone back and forth on the issue. Do you guys see any
problem with soffit material? My thought is to use 1x4s nailed on
bottom of the trusses about every 2-4 feet to help minimize sagging.
Will the soffit still sag? Will it be possible to keep the rows of
soffit straight and how do I go about doing that. (With a chalk
Above whatever type ceiling I use will be clear plastic vapor barrier
with unfaced r-30 fiberglass insulation.
One caveat is I can see sometime in the future needing to get in the
ceiling to run wire or whatever. Hopefully someday to run a central
heat/air unit but that may be a long time from now.
Also, on another note, we have had torrential rains last night. I had
drops of water on the center of the floor. I crawled in the ceiling
and the best I can tell is it is blowing in from the top ridge cap
that is on the center of the roof. I assume this is used for
Anyhow I really appreciate your help!
I put up interior "liner" metal pole barn siding. They make something
they call "liner" which is a little cheaper because it doesn't have 3
coats of paint. Only 2. They will cut it to whatever length you want
to the inch. No tapeing, no painting. Easily installed and looks great
for a garage. No need for furring strips either. 2 man job at best.
Just put it up. Can be hosed off if needed. I also put it on the
sides, which needed a few furring strips because I hung it vertically.
If you need to get into the attic part, just unscrew one section.
The ridge vent is to allow any moisture from building up. Occasionally
when the winds are blowing the rain, you may get a few drops. Only you
can determine what is excessive.
In the beginning I priced the metal for the walls and ceilign and it
was expensive. I never just priced the ceiling but I have 10 outlets
in my ceiling that control my 10 plug in shop lights. Not sure how I
would get around that with metal.
It's a shop/garage, right? Go look at your local auto repair shop and
you will metal panels, and CONDUIT! Trying to wire a shop like a house
is simply futile. Your insulation will lay on the metal panels
perfectly, and the conduit will sit snug to the ceiling. Plan it right
and you could add compressed air lines or other utilities along the
same routes and have a nice inspector pleasing industrial look. Your
trusses are likely more than adequate for metal panels.
Don't use that as an excuse to not do it right. Replacing the romex
with conduit will save you a bunch of labor and meet code now and in
the future. Have a chat witha pro electrician or code inspector to
get some insights into the advantages. Conduit is far easier to
install and modify for a shop, and safer by far. Too many people look
at conduit and panic, but even in rehab work my subs will mix conduit
and romex in places where each has a unique advantage. For example,
instead of nailing boards between 4' OC trusses for romex they will
put up a couple of boxes and run conduit, no support needed. Looks
To cut the outlets, you drill a hole in each corner, score with a
utility knife and bend back and forth a couple times, quick and easy
The metal weighs less than drywall and won't sag over a 4' span.
Just think, no tapeing, no painting, no tape coming loose later. One
What's your next excuse? :-)
I put up a 40' x 24' garage this summer, and insulated/drywalled the
back 16' for a workshop (so, 24' x 16'). It was a pole-barn style
building, with 4' trusses, but I was still able to drywall the
ceiling. We (my BIL, who is a general contractor, helped) ran 2x4s
flat every 16" crosswise to the trusses, and hung the drywall parallel
with the trusses. This seems to have worked pretty well so far, as
there's no cracking in the ceiling.
We also had 10' walls but my BIL ordered nothing but 8' sheets, and we
did all the sheets long ways along the walls. In retrospect, the
cutting involved with 10' sheets would have been better (after
dropping the inch and a half for the 2x4s, plus 5/8" for the ceiling
drywall, we were less than 10' to the floor). I did three layers of
mud, although I used the paper tape and the first two layers were more
"filler", with only the last one for smoothing. I was aiming for
"nice" but not "professional" - you can see problems up close, but
after painting, it looks ok from the center of the room.
One more thing. I believe you said it was built using the "pole barn"
method. If so, and you used solid 4x4 or 6x6, they will warp causing
cracks in the drywall. Metal will not show any signs of the poles
Hank <~~~~not the smartest
This is studd walls on top of a concrete slab. @ feet on center. 2x4
trusses 4 feet apart. The truss manufacture says no drywall or osb
ceiling due to the weight. Apparently they were designed for a "pole
barn" style. (No interrior ceiling). The lightest thing I could think
of was soffit or suspended.
Could you add your own ceiling joists "between" the trusses to support a
drywall ceiling? Assuming you won't be storing anything in the attic, all
you need is enough strength to support the drywall.
2x10's at 16" OC should work for a 30' span, though you might have a hard
time finding 30' lumber (a lumber yard might be able to special order and
deliver). Wood I-joists might be easier to find in those lengths, and you
might be able to use a smaller size (check with the I-joist manufacturer).
Of course, the extra framing might add another $500-800 to the project, so
you would have to decide how important a ceiling is. :)
Just a thought...
Of course they would say that. Ok, to overcome that: cut 1/2" plywood
into 3-1/2" wide strips 8' long. Glue and screw them on the sides of
the trusses. Then run a 2x4 from the center of the truss to the top.
That will increase their load capacity by about 10 times.
I know you won't do this, but it is one way to do it.
Hank <~~~~thinks there is a solution to every problem
Correct, your new joists would be supporting the weight of the drywall
ceiling, not the roof trusses. In fact, if you added a joist next to the
truss, you wouldn't even have to attach the drywall to the trusses. The
trusses wouldn't play any part in the ceiling structure, and consequently
wouldn't affect the load ratings of the truss.
Adding ceiling joists would also give you something to attach insulation
to, which you would really appreciate if you have to work out there in the
In any case, adding ceiling joists would be more of a cost issue than a
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