bandsaw blade for resawing

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I recently got a grizzly G0555 with the riser block and am trying to figure out what blade to get for resawing. It appears from looking over the past postings here that people generally recommend either the Timberwolf or the Woodslicer.
Now the recent Fine Woodworking article gave the Timberwolf fairly poor ratings. It gave the Woodslicer very good ratings. And another blade that nobody talks about, a blade made by Delta, also got good ratings.
This leave me fairly puzzled. Another concern is that I noticed a claim made in this group that the Woodslicer needs high tension, which is hard on a wimpy saw like the G0555. (Is it worth upgrading the spring with the Iturra?) Maybe the "low tension" feature is worth something if it takes the strain off the saw. And furthermore, I read somewhere that the lifespan of the Woodslicer blade is very very short. Like it cuts great when new but after 30 minutes it doesn't cut so well any more. The FWW review didn't consider blade wear.
That of course raises the question of whether the Supercut Carbide impregnated blade is a good choice (though Lee Valley doesn't sell 105" blades for some reason). Or even straight carbide. I found an article praising the Lenox Pro-Master III carbide, wherein it was claimed that the this blade could do stuff that other blades couldn't. http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/8_23mattband.html People do talk about these blades liking high tension, which again seems like a potential issue for a wimpy saw.
Does anybody have any insights into this?
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On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 02:35:12 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@cox.net (Adrian Mariano) wrote:
Excellent questions I am waiting for the "experts" reply. By the way did you encounter any problems after you installed the riser block?

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On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 02:35:12 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@cox.net (Adrian Mariano) wrote:

when I got my saw (18" parks) I bought some timberwolf blades for it. today I took off the hardwood resaw one, vowing never to put it back on, and replaced it with a lennox carbide one. the timberwolf blade was welded crooked. it made a rythmic thumping noise while running and often threw sparks off of the guides.
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Wondering why you didn't return [and continued to use] an obviously defective blade....
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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condescending tripe! I doubt the poster appreciates your rude comment. Besides, you are gonna need the time you use to rudely answer posts to deal with me now.
dave
Doug Miller wrote:

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On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 14:50:05 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

I didn't mount that blade until I had had it a while and had lost the reciept.
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Call customer service at Suffolk -- I'll bet they will replace it, even without a receipt. From your description, it seems pretty clear that it's a manufacturing defect, and they should stand behind it, regardless of when or where you bought it.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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Yep, they did and will. Evidence is only the blade itself. Had a bad one once.

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On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 17:10:47 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

Yeah it happened to me too, the replacement wasn't that good either so I'm now looking for another blade. By the way the man on the Suffolk wasn't too happy and demanded that I keep the bad blade for returned... they have not asked for it yet!
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On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 17:10:47 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

perhaps they would. I'm not enthusiastic about doing that, for a couple of reasons.
first is the experience I had ordering the blade. the guy on the phone was if not quite rude certainly not very helpful. He seemed to be a little put out to have to deal with my insignificant little order of 3 blades and a set of new poly tires for an 18" bandsaw. there are plenty of other vendors of bandsaw blades out there. I think I'll try a different one next time.
secondly, if they send me another blade I'll have to use it for a while too. A replacement from them might be better- or not. there are plenty of brands of bandsaw blades out there. I think I'll try a different one next time. in fact I have. the blade on there now is a Lennox carbide tipped blade that makes a very nice cut.
    Bridger
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snipped-for-privacy@thanks.com wrote:

Almost my experience exactly. I think we must have talked to the same guy.
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snipped-for-privacy@cox.net (Adrian Mariano) wrote in message

Only a really poor saw can't achieve high tension. Many saws can only do it on a fairly narrow blade, for it's not the tension we really care about, it's the tensile force / area. Most "retail" saws can only do it though by putting their wimpy springs close to the "locked solid" state, and that's a really bad thing.

Yes
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Anybody have a website/phone number for Iturra?? I also have the G0555 and would like to upgrade the spring
TIA! Eric
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Wookie) writes:

The phone number is 888 722 7078. They have a catalog (which hasn't come yet). Supposedly they sell everything associated with band saaws. It must be a small operation. The first couple times I called the line was busy. But I did eventually get through and talk to somebody. There does not appear to be a web site.
I asked him about blades. He said they sell lenox blades in carbon steel, bimetal, and carbide. He said the only difference between these blades was the longevity. They also sell a "woodslicer type" blade which is allegedly obtained from the same source as the Highland Hardware blade but it costs $20 instead of $30 for the 105" length. This blade is carbon steel, but according to the Iturra guy it gives a smoother finish than the other blades.
The Iturra guy also told me that the Grizzley G0555 saw apparently exists in different incarnations with a different spring length, so you need to measure your spring before you call.
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When I called to order a few years ago I asked about this and the lady sighed and said roughly "I know, I know!".
On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 21:48:01 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@cox.net (Adrian Mariano) wrote:

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That's when you follow up with "Tell you what, let's work an exchange. I'll build you a site and teach you how to use it, in exchange for goods."
Oh wait, that's how _I_ follow up, sometimes.
Dave "...when I have too much spare time..." Hinz
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It's been noted that one should be careful what one asks for as one might get it.

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snipped-for-privacy@codesmiths.com (Andy Dingley) writes:

I think the claim was not that saws could not achieve the high tension but rather that it caused wear on bearings or other parts of the machine.
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I use the Suffolk blades, and they work fine for me on a Delta. I've had one replaced in the last ten years for a weld problem. Tougher stuff like carbide will last much better on abrasive exotics, no doubt.
My concern, given experience with a couple of 14" Grizzlies, is with the saw, not the blade. Apparently they're a mixed lot. Be sure to check _everything_ every time you make a change. Oh yes, I like a pivot, not a full fence for resawing, and ceramic guides.

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George notes:

Me, too, except I currently am using brass guides. Not too bad, if you can accept the faster wear. Cheap. Buy bar brass in the proper size at almost any metal shop and cut them yourself.
Charlie Self "The test and the use of man's education is that he finds pleasure in the exercise of his mind." Jacques Barzun
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