Riser block for Delta 28-276

[danbo]

I have a Delta 28-276 bandsaw, which I'm hoping to do a little (read enough to pay for the cost of throwing away 1/2" of planer shavings on about 40 bf of maple) re-sawing. Of course, as everyone else who has ambitiously looked to do so with a 14" saw, the limitation of the 6" is frustrating. So, I was planning on getting a riser block and a

105" blade to do some 9" maple re-sawing. But, in looking at the Delta riser block kit, it's almost $120. I see the Jet/Powermatic and other generic ones for around half of that. Currently, the Jet one is on sale close to me and I was wondering if (since they all look very similar) it would fit the Delta or not? If anyone has any experience/ advice using a non-Delta riser with the Delta saw, I'd appreciate it.

thanks,

danbo

[Toller]

Can't answer your question, but before you do anything, have you tried resawing 6" maple? Figure 9" will be twice as difficult. Still want to do it?

[marc rosen]

Hello danbo, Following in Toller's footsteps it would be wise to attempt sawing the

6 inch material first. I added a riser to my Delta 14 inch and noticed how underpowered it was with the original motor (i/2 hp, about 1989 vintage) Yours has a 3/4 hp which should be an improvement but I did not get satisfactory results until I added a 1.5 hp. Unless you plan future resawing endeavors it may be better to hire someone to do the cutting for you- I'm certain it would cost a lot less for someone to resaw this if you had to pay to get it done. Marc

[Jim Behning]

[danbo]

The lack of power is something that's kept me second guessing, and I don't think I'm going to be getting into a lot of resawing at this time, so now I'm more confused than ever :-(

I guess I could resaw 5 inch boards and then glue them up - they're for drawer sides/backs, but I've never edge glued anything less than

3/4" - can it be done with 1/2 boards - with or without biscuits? Seems like they'd be mighty prone to buckle, unless I sandwich them, or ??

- danbo

[Pat Barber]

You must be making some pretty big drawers. I would glue the 3/4" boards up and plane them to size. I know it's a little wasteful, but sometimes it's the only way to get solid stock that wide. You can glue up 1/2" stock but you want that to be your finished size, so you need to start larger and plane down to the size you want.

I make most of my drawers from plywood with solid wood fr> The lack of power is something that's kept me second guessing, and I

[Leuf]

I've edge glued 1/4" boards. 1/2" won't be much different than 3/4"

Keep in mind though that if you take 1/4" off one side of a 3/4" board it's going to cup on you unless it has even moisture content all the way through the board.

-Leuf

[Patriarch]

Leuf wrote in news: [e-mail]:

It isn't just the moisture content. Growth rings, grain patterns, etc., all contribute. And wider = worse for this application.

Baltic birch plywood, or similar. I buy it prefinished, in 8' lengths, at the pro plywood supplier, for drawer stock. Good stuff!

Patriarch

[Woodhead]

Power is a problem, but if you are patient and don't force the material a 14" Delta can resaw 12' cherry or oak. I do it often.

The results are worth it when you have a great piece of material!

[Jim Behning]

I resawed some oak just for fun. I got three pices about 1/4" after a little clean up in the planer. So far with no gluing they seem to be stable. I have ripped oak lumber that bowed pretty bad though. It is kind of fun resawing. I put a 4 inch port on my bottom cover attached to my Jet dust collector. That seems to keep dust out of my face.

[cselby]

Besides the riser, there is a return blade guard , a longer upper guide rod/bar/pipe and a longer upper guide bar blade cover. While the riser may very well fit (using some calcutated adjusting) the remaining stuff may not.

If you can, open the box of parts at the store and measure the return blade guard mountings and the size/type of upper guide bar. Or check to make sure you can return the kit, then buy it, lay it all out in front of the saw and make your decision to try and fit it on.

Sure would look goofy if the return blade guard was exposing the blade and you just barely managed to brush up against it even when not running the saw.

Pete

[danbo]

Well, thanks for all the input. After reading all the responses, I think I'll delay my purchase of a setup for resawing, save some of my maple stock and go with the baltic birch plywood for the drawers. Hopefully, it will cost me less than the resawing setup would.

- danbo

[marc rosen]

Hey danbo, Just curious, where do you live? Are there any woodworking clubs- turners included - near you? Any decent large scale dealler with resawing capabilities? Marc

[Raul Caro]

replying to danbo, Raul Caro wrote: Danbo, I have made large drawers and have always used 1/2" baltic birch, it works great and is much more stable that sliced pcs. from solid stock. Solid stock tends to warp and crack, which is the last thing you want with drawers. Also, I use a solid front in whatever wood type I want usually maple or walnut in 3/4" stock. good luck.... Raul