WHAT? You mean that one blade did your entire Bridge of Sighs Bedroom Suite without being sharpened? ;) That's a good blade.
I finally upgraded from HF to a Freud blade for my circ saw and it really is an improvement. Well, was, until the blade height adjustment loosened and it started cutting the blacktop. She cuts a mite slower nowadays. I'll replace it some day soon.
-- Energy and persistence alter all things. --Benjamin Franklin
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 14:51:11 -0500, Leon
We should all be so lucky to be able to afford two table saws *and* have a large enough shop to be able to use them.
We just moved into a house with a 2000 ft^2 basement but there are a *lot* of toys I want to buy before even thinking about another table saw. Changing blades isn't all that tough. ;-)
With my saw stop I have that fence dialed in with just a few thou lean out on and I still get teeth marks on my rips with that blade or any thin kerf actually. I checked for run out and there is esentially none. I actually returned a glue line saying it was flawed and was just going to get my money back but the sad looking Woodcraft owner got me to agree to swap for another one. I went back the next day and bought a full kerf ripper and have glass like rips ever since. I guess I am just a softee. Still have the glue line but it has worked its way to the back of the stack on the blade nail next to the saw. =================================================================================================================================== I have been using a full kerf glue line rip for some time. Works great. They do make that blade in two thicknesses.
2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you hav e 2 table saw, that might change considerations.
similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer. If you believe that a "good" combo blade is only appropriate for basic cabinet work something was/is not right. I no longer own a jointer as I never used the one I had and I never over size a cut. I get what might be considered perfect cuts 98% of the time and sanding is most often not necessary other than to prep the cut surface to be consistent with the face surface for a consistent application of a stain or finish. Any tooth marks are pretty much non existent.
I sell my work too and it is pretty intricate. I don't tolerate sub par results from my equipment and don't use another machine to clean up what another has not left done properly.
Changing blade is not tough but changing set ups can be a PIA.
2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you have
(good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer.
sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc.
Out of curiousity have you ever tried a WWII Blade. Just curious if you've felt you were doing better with the other blades.
Mike M
2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you ha ve
similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer.
sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc.
IIRC he mentioned using a Forrest blade and IIRC Forrest does not make a rip blade. So my "guess" is that he has used a Forrest General cut blade, maybe not. If he was not happy with the results of a WWII "something" was not right.
On Thursday, October 11, 2012 9:26:03 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
1, 2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote: >> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProd= ucts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale= wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >= You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much b= etter with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always use= d a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on= the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cros= s cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they= are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less= than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I = doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But= as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a= combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting = with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you hav e 2 table saw= , that might change considerations. > > IMNSHO combo blades are only appror= iate for basic cabinet work or other similar (good enough is OK) jobs and n= ot the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only b= ecause the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up= the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer. If you believe that a "good"= combo blade is only appropriate for basic cabinet work something was/is no= t right. I no longer own a jointer as I never used the one I had and I neve= r over size a cut. I get what might be considered perfect cuts 98% of the t= ime and sanding is most often not necessary other than to prep the cut surf= ace to be consistent with the face surface for a consistent application of = a stain or finish. Any tooth marks are pretty much non existent. I sell my = work too and it is pretty intricate. I don't tolerate sub par results from = my equipment and don't use another machine to clean up what another has not= left done properly.I don't dispute your claim. Sounds like you have a well tuned instrument (s= aw) and good technique.
e: >> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, Octo= ber 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34= :10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting = with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went t= he ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did = fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each h= is own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarel= y use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do= cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and = just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cros= s cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The t= rick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blad= e. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross = cut blade. Now if you have >2 table saw, that might change considerations. =
similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am = usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually overs= ize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in th= e planer. > >I have one I throw on when making plywood boxes, etc. for arou= nd the shop or sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc. Out o= f curiousity have you ever tried a WWII Blade. Just curious if you've felt = you were doing better with the other blades. Mike M
Yes I have used Forests. Mostly loved them. I get pretty much the same resu= lts from full kerf Freuds but I do recall some fricking glass like smooth c= ross cuts with a Woodworker cross cut (maybe 60 tooth) blade. I have never = done side-by-side. I keep my blades sharp. Probably feels like Forests hold= an edge longer but I am usually buying a few blades at a time and like to = save a few bucks.
2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you have
similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer.
sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc.
I have a WW and a WWII for the RAS and the TS. I love 'em both, but I have found that a good rip blade on the TS helps immensely when ripping redwood. It is much faster and doesn't build up resin nearly as fast as the WWII.
I rip a load of 8' 2x6 redwood and plough out a 1" x 7/8" centered groove (with a dado stack) on 8' 2.5" wide lengths every month to supply hand railings for metal RV deck/stairs for a RV accessory manufacturer. I route a 1/2" radius on all four edges. He cuts to length and finishes as orders come in.
Pays green fees...
On Thursday, October 11, 2012 7:01:27 PM UTC-7, CW wrote:
snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com... On Thursday, October 11, 2012 7:18:28 AM UTC-7, = Swingman wrote: > On 10/11/2012 12:34 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On We= dnesday, October > 10, 2012 4:54:36 PM UTC-7, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:= >> I'm just a > hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much= budget > constrained. For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carb= ide > Finishing 40 Tooth Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too= > badly. Rockler currently has: Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut =
make? Speculation is encouraged. Thx, Will > > You will find that ripping =
Any serious WWkr with a TS should at least have a rip and cross cut blade.= > I use Freud blades quite a bit. I think maybe a more expensive version, =
ical projects crosscuts (combination blade, but still cuts sterling > cross= cuts), and a Freud Glue-Line-Rip for all critical project rips to > dimensi= on after jointing. --
I should try that. I usually pick up blades at local Woodcraft. I like to s= upport the guy but his inventory is pretty weak. Usually never has the blad= es I want. Offers to order them but why bother. I just go home and order it= myself online if it is something O can wait for. Never saw the full kerf g= lue line there.
Angle grinder.
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:45:51 -0400, " snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz"
Given (reasonable) aspirations for a workshop, I'd want a shop big enough to house several machines the size of a decent Felder table saw. It would have to be capable of handing entire 8' sheets of ply and completely outfitted with a power feeder.
Punch a couple of numbers into a computer screen and then watch it happen.
This one would do. :)
my saw stop I have that fence dialed in with just a few thou lean out on and I still get teeth marks on my rips with that blade or any thin kerf actually.
Although I do own one special purpose thin kerf, as a general rule I don't use thin kerf blades ... the Freud blade I was referring to is
1/8" kerf, Glue-Line-Rip.
On 10/12/2012 12:01 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote: >> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or gener al purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you hav e 2 table saw, that might change considerations. > > IMNSHO combo blades are only approriate for basic cabinet work or other similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer. If you believe that a "good" combo blade is only appropriate for basic cabinet work something was/is not right. I no longer own a jointer as I never used the one I had and I never over size a cut. I get what might be considered perfect cuts 98% of the time and sanding is most often not necessary other than to prep the cut surface to be consistent with the face surface for a consistent application of a stain or finish. Any tooth marks are pretty much non existent. I sell my work too and it is pretty intricate. I don't tolerate sub par results from my equipment and don't use another machine to clean up what another has not left done properly.and good technique.
Well I do only use a 40 tooth general blade which might make the big difference and I seldom rip material thicker than 3/4" thick, another big factor.
On Fri, 12 Oct 2012 08:38:24 -0500, Leon
I (think) I know what CNC can do, but my main woodworking desire is the easiest way to slice up veneered plywood. Cabinet making is my main focus with woodworking.
CNC is a whole other ball game.
I have the same blade, the LM74R010. They do make a thin kerf version, LM75R010, but with the thinner plate, I would not want to use it and I really doubt it would yield the same results no matter how perfect the table saw was set up.
I have noticed that you can still get burn marks on the fence side of the cut with the full kerf blade if you stall the feed rate anywhere in the cut. I think that's probably just the nature of the beast, however. I try to make sure I can get an uninterrupted feed for anything on which I need a "finished" surface.
I've never owned a Forrest blade but a year or two back I bought Freud's then new "Fusion" blade. I don't see how any other blade could cut any smoother. Can't yet testify to longevity - as a hobby woodworker it takes me a while to dull a blade.
My only quibble is that it's ATB and not ATBR.
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