Suggestions please - Stuck 1m drill bit

[Roger]

The message from John Stumbles contains these words:

Oops. Now how did I manage to miss that?

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

ooh! handbags at dawn. :-)

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

[Rumble]

Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) said the following on 02/12/2005 13:45:

Any particular reason why you don't go and hire a bigger Hilti?

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

Been tried. The bit stays put and the user's arm gets broken by the recoil. :-)

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

Interesting thought. It probably is a matter of getting enough leverage. After all, the drill has to be harder than the wall.

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

Not a good option due to the resulting additional damage to the wall and the unprofessional appearance of such a job.

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

I have an axle slide hammer and it seems like a good idea. However, I need a way to securely couple it to the drill shaft.

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

Because that's where the hole needs to be!

Haven't seen it, but a few inches I would guess.

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

It's a thought, but the plaster could take a bashing unless the load is well spread.

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

It was tried on site.

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

I will look into that. I would guess the wall is solid though.

[Grunff]

When I did it, I clamped a pair of molegrips on the drill shaft, then hooked the sliding hammer hook onto the molegrip jaws.

[Roger]

The message from "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)" contains these words:

Having already proved remarkably unobservant perhaps I should keep quiet on this one but ISTM that trying to twist it out has a high probability of ultimately sheering it off. Getting a secure hold and pulling it out is almost guaranteed to pull it out without breaking it. The twofold problems with that of course are getting the secure hold in the first place and then applying sufficient force to pull it out. Someone has already suggested wedges. An alternative could be a metal claw hammer with the fulcrum very close to a drill or a wrecking bar used in the same manner. Some protection to the surface could be provided by a solid pad under the fulcum.

[Tony Williams]

Repetitive taps forwards then backwards is likely to be the best way to loosen the drill bit.

[Jeff]

What size is the bit ?

Regards jeff

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

Agreed, but how to couple it to the axle mounting plate on my slide hammer is the new question.

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

10mm by 1m SDS

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

Interesting idea, but will the SDS splines not be case hardened?

[Cicero]

================= You might try putting a thread on the protruding end of the bit. You would then be able to run a nut down to provide anchorage for either the slide hammer or a crowbar / wrecking bar.

Cic.

[Chris Bacon]

What a good idea! If there's only a little of the drill protuding, there might not be enough room for a slide hammer - the nut could be used to lever on, or to actually wind down on a space to pull the bit. I'd wondered about welding up a lug to lever, but this idea might be more acceptable.

You might, if careful, run another drill in alongside to free the first, but....

Perhaps consider an alternative route for what you're putting in?

A while ago, I used to frequently drill 8' deep holes in granite, when a drill got stuck, it was often because it had gone through a rift or joint like this:

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