On Tue, 21 May 2013 16:42:08 -0400, gfretwell wrote:
Funny you should mention that... as I called AO Smith technical
support today (800-262-6484) to nail down thru-bolt specifications.
It turns out these bolts are, just as you suggested, #8x32, of
varying lengths depending on the length of the motor itself.
Specifically, they are "8x32 UNC rolled thread" (whatever that means),
of 0.272" in diameter, with only the last 1 inch threaded, and with
a 1/4 inch hex head.
In case someone else needs it, here are the lengths for my motors:
AO Smith QC1102 1.65HP(net) 09.38" long thru bolts (P/N 606202-071)
AO Smith U27-881 1.65HP(net) 10.25" long thru bolts
AO Smith U27-884 2.20HP(net) 10.25" long thru bolts
AO Smith SQ1152 2.20HP(net) 10.75" long thru bolts
Googling for the AO Smith part number 606202-071, I find they're
$4 each at http://www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352042244.htm
$3.30 each at http://www.poolproducts.com/SPP/productr.asp?pf_idR70-45
$2.57 each at http://www.aqua-man.com/row_num.asp?Ic 689
and they have a description of:
A.O. Smith Motor Thru-Bolt, 8-32 x 9-3/8" x 2" Thread
So, like Oren with the huckleberries, when you say #8 stainless steel
through bolts, I should come 'a runnin', cuz, you're on the money.
BTW, would there be any "galvanic" problem with stainless steel
threaded into aluminum?
Not enough to set up any significant galvanic corrosion from 18-8 or
304 SS and aluminum. (just a little white powder at the joint)
TefGel will prevent that.
316 won't be a problem at all even in salt water.
I can show you pictures of a 40 year old salt water pontoon boat to
show you both.
On 5/22/2013 11:45 AM, email@example.com wrote:
well, i can't show you pictures, but my boat had steel bolts through an
Al tube, and i had to drill the bolt out, leaving an oversized eaten
away hole. this is a boat that is used 95% in fresh water, sits in my
yard in the AZ desert (low humidity), and sees salt water maybe once/year.
i use something for dissimilar metals every time i change out something now.
On Wed, 22 May 2013 12:00:56 -0700, chaniarts wrote:
Certainly the soft steel bolts stick like they're welded onto
the aluminum of the motor! Proof is in the pictures prior.
So, would standard gray automotive anti-seize paste work
to prevent this with the steel on aluminum?
On Tue, 21 May 2013 23:45:04 -0400, gfretwell wrote:
Googling, for how TefGel differs from my basic automotive anti-seize,
this explains the action of Ultra Safety Systems TefGel between
aluminum and stainless steel:
Tefgel is apparently half PTFE with zero petroleum solvents to
evaporate and no silicone or lanolin.
Apparently it works simply by filling voids, that stay filled,
so that no electrolytes can touch the dissimilar metals.
Apparently the standard gray anti-seize contains "lanolin",
at least according to this web site:
That would explain why you guys, who have more experience than I
(I have none) suggest TefGel over the standard automotive stuff.
If tefgel works on SS+AL, wouldn't it also work on the original
plain old steel bolts into the aluminum motor housing?
On Tue, 21 May 2013 16:42:08 -0400, gfretwell wrote:
One correction. We only need a 1/4" #8x32 nut on one side.
BTW, if anyone needs to know, calling AO Smith technical support
turns out not to be an easy endeavor, until you try it once.
Googling, you'll find 800-433-2545 listed as the best number,
but that turns out to be a division that was sold to
waterheaterparts.com, and not the motor division.
They'll tell you that AO Smith technical support is at
800-527-1953, which it is, but not for motors. That company
is now called hotwater.com.
Finally, that number above will tell you the *real* technical
support number for A.O. Smith motors, which is 800-262-6484.
This is a company called "Regal", who has a division called
"Century" (centuryelectricmotor.com) which owns the AO Smith
I understand that most people leave pool pumps and even shallow well
pumps out in the weather but they will last many times longer if you
can put them inside. My spa pumps are 25 years old and still going
strong (in the garage)
I ended up building a car port sort of thing over my pool equipment
and it is doing a lot better now.
Weather will kill these things pretty quick;y.
If I lived up there in the frozen north my pumps would be cord and
plug connected with unions on the pipes so I could take them inside
when I closed the pool.
On Mon, 20 May 2013 21:50:26 -0400, gfretwell wrote:
I understand. And agree.
I've never built a shed, but that's exactly what I need.
I would add some room to store the chemicals and equipment also.
If I ever got industrious, it would even have a warm shower.
I'm not sure if the heater requires special ventilation though.
I'm back from camping with the kids and will see if I can fix that leak
The odd thing is that I don't see how simply removing the halves of the
pump would make the seals leak; but something must be leaking.
Interestingly, I've never replaced the seals, so I'll look for a DIY on
the net for the Sta-Rite Max-e-Glas II pumps.
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