What size electrical junction box fits a 1-inch diameter cable anyway?

I agree...

Inspect the shaft bearing behind seal for rust. No rust, it should be fine for now. The seal leaks and corrodes the bearing from chlorine (motors squeal). Not real expensive.

Reply to
DD_BobK
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On all of the pumps I have worked on the ceramic seal actually seals to the impeller and the pump housing. The shaft is not sealed. They can be pretty nasty and still work OK. I have 3 pool pumps and a well pump that all have 5/8" shafts and use the same bearing (a sealed 6203). I went to an online bearing place and got 10 bearings for what one costs locally. I throw new bearings at any pump I rebuild now.

Reply to
gfretwell

I'm back from camping with the kids and will see if I can fix that leak on Monday.

The odd thing is that I don't see how simply removing the halves of the pump would make the seals leak; but something must be leaking.

Interestingly, I've never replaced the seals, so I'll look for a DIY on the net for the Sta-Rite Max-e-Glas II pumps.

Reply to
Danny D

It was my first conduit wiring job ever.

I designed it specifically to make it easy to remove the pumps when the covers are permanently rusted onto the motors (such that the wires can't be disconnected from the pumps).

For that, it works.

However, in (my now more experienced) hindsight, I'd just cut the conduit when the end caps rust on the conduit - since I'm no longer scared about conduit wiring.

And, when that happens, I'd just replace the entire cut conduit with a straight run right into the controller, which will be easier and even cheaper than adding the junction box. And more reliable.

I never said I didn't learn any lessons after having done a task.

Reply to
Danny D

Well, the motors had to be turned in circles in order to remove the 1/2 inch elbow since there was no way the connector was coming off otherwise.

But I *could* have just unbolted the motors at the square flange (and, in hindsight, that's what I *should* have done.

Removing the motors also made it easier to move the pumps about as I juggled the setup (although in hindsight, that wasn't worth the leak).

I'm googling for a Sta-Rite Max-e-Glas II seal replacement DIY, and I see some youtube videos, which I will check out before replacing the seal tomorrow (if I can find a seal in stock at the local pool supply stores).

I'm a bit confused though why both pumps would leak simply from opening them up, as I've opened them up before and didn't have this problem.

Reply to
Danny D

This is exactly what I would do in the future if/when the motor endcaps rust on so tightly that they can't be removed. In the past, I've been extremely frustrated with endcap bolts breaking, where I had to punch a hole in the rusted endcap just to remove the bolts.

I *was* scared of touching the conduit - but now that I've worked with it, it seems like the easiest of all the tasks - so - my fear of conduit was unwarranted.

There was no way to remove the 1/2 inch elbow without spinning the motor. Just impossible (without cutting it off or disconnecting the other end of the conduit).

Both of these tasks seemed unthinkable to me before I worked with the conduit; but now that I've worked with the conduit, my fear of disturbing it has been greatly lessened.

Even easier, I could have *unbolted* the motor from the pump. Then it would have been even easier to spin than a motor attached to the back half of the pump.

I agree, in hindsight, with you. Separating the halves of the pump created *more work* for me as I now have to find new seals and replace them. I'll be doing that tomorrow if I can find them in stock.

Cleaning the pump was done only because it was easy to do. It would have been just as easy to clean the whole pump as it was half the pump, so cleaning was not really a factor.

Reply to
Danny D

I have three pool pumps, one fountain pump, and two well pumps; so it behooves me to learn how to replace their bearings.

Looking at my old AO Smith QC1102 1.0x1.65SF HP motors (I have four to choose from) I see the bearings appear to be the same as yours.

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I'll google what these markings indicate: a. 6203V USA NSK b. 6203D 2145 CHINA KBC

Reply to
Danny D

Thanks for that pointer; that video shows exactly what my pump looks like, so that's a confidence booster.

They even sell the seal; the price seems to be $26 + $9 = $35

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Here's what they said in the video: a. Kill power b. Unscrew the big pump clamp knob c. Separate the two halves of the pump d. Remove the diffuser by removing 5 screws e. Remove the impeller by securing the shaft & unscrewing the impeller f. Remove the seal plate by unbolting the 4 bolts on the motor flange g. Remove the ceramic seal from seal plate by pushing it out h. Remove the spring-loaded seal by pulling it off the impeller shaft

I'll see if I can find some seals in stock at a reasonable price locally. Otherwise, I'll order them online & wait.

Reply to
Danny D

6203 is the important part. That is the size of the bearing You also want "sealed" bearings, not "shielded" bearings in a pump and don't lose the "slinger" that washer between the pump and motor that seems to have no purpose. It takes water migrating down the shaft and "slings" it away before it gets to the bearing. Other than that, the only trick is getting the bearing off the shaft. A bearing puller is a great thing to have. A piece of 1/2" schedule 40 pipe seems to be a good driver to put it back. You want to be sure the driver only pushes on the inner race.
Reply to
gfretwell

Hi Bob,

That was just a joke about the nyms, since Oren is able to discern a lot of unintended things from a single photo.

It's funny you say that though, because you're only caustic to the ones from me. You're perfectly reasonable in the rest of the nyms. No big deal, as I don't actually plan on changing nyms, having stopped that privacy practice about a year ago.

I'm positive that, if I had wanted to change nyms, you'd never be the wiser; but again, I have no plans for that as it's not really an effective privacy measure anyway.

< / off topic discussion >
Reply to
Danny D

They have the seals at my pool store but they are cheaper if you go to a bearing supply house or order from a supplier on the net once you get the industry standard number. I wrote the seal number on the pump so I can have one before I take the pump apart..

Reply to
gfretwell

DDD-

Be my guest....change away.. we'll see if you can effectively morph and if I can detect...

You're changing in the past didn't seem all that effect.

It just amusement for me at this point.

cheers

Reply to
DD_BobK

Unfortunately, that otherwise nice video skipped a few critical steps.

Googling, I found an annoying set of videos from

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which intimates you can't secure the shaft without removing both the capacitor and stationary switch:
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Also, they add a silicone seal sealer, which isn't covered elsewhere, but their videos are annoying as hell and difficult to piece together without an index.

Reply to
Danny D

Two things:

1 - Do you actually have to take the whole end off the end of the motor, which I assume means removing the 4 very long motor bolts? I haven't done a pool motor, but the typical motors I've worked with, they had a small cover plate over the wiring connections that was easy to remove. Especially if you put some grease on the screws before assembly.

2 - If you hook it up direct, you can leave some extra slack in the conduit and some extra wire at the controller box, so that if you need to cut it off at the motor to remove, you will have enough conduit and wire left so you can reconnect without redoing it. have enough conduit

Reply to
trader4

Aye Karumba! I didn't realize until now that you split it by taking the pump apart instead of just seperating the motor from the pump! I knew you went on to screw around with the pump, but I thought that was after you had taken the motor off the pump. I would never take a pump apart that didn't need servicing, unless I had no other choice.

It's not the cleaning. It's that using an acid bath might be the cause of the pump now leaking. I sure woudn't be quick to use acid on a pump that was working just fine.

Reply to
trader4

The original pics show an elbow with a nut where the conduit connected to it, ie it's not the new type where the fitting screws into the conduit. So, why exacly was there no way to get that elbow off the end of the conduit without rotating the motor? Loosen the nut, pull and work it side to side until it comes off. If it won't come off, take a propane torch and gently apply a little heat to the outside of the conduit.

Reply to
trader4

That's a good point that the industry standard number is key quality and pricing for the pump seal & motor bearings.

Googling, I find a 6203 bearing for $3; but I'm not sure if there is more standard-size info needed than just the "6203":

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The AO Smith part number is 604005-001 for a double sealed high thrust bearing with ID 0.6693" & OD 1.5750" & W 0.470"

I also find the pump seal standard number is "PS-201".

And the seal plate o-ring is "U9-228A", which I can't yet find the official size for - but which I can measure and then pick up at McMaster Carr.

The diffuser o-ring seems to be a "2-U9-374" based on this:

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For o-rings, I find this nice "o-ring store":

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I'm still a bit confused about 'standard' part numbers; but I'm taking your advice by finding out what they are first.

Reply to
Danny D

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If you have a real bearing store and you are here on a slow day the counter guy can tell you everything you need to know about bearings. I think VXB is the company I bought my last batch from.

Reply to
gfretwell

You must take the endcap off the motor, but it's two short steel bolts (about an inch long).

If you don't take the endcap off the motor, you can't unscrew the ground wire (which is bolted down); nor can you unclip the two power wires (as they're clipped on).

I understand; but there is no cover plate on these motors. In addition, the bolts are soft rustable steel; and they sit outside. Makes no sense to me that they're not stainless steel bolts.

I understand. Makes sense.

I saw a video while I was looking for motor rebuilding where they drill out the bolt heads - which would be the first thing to try.

Reply to
Danny D

Why not replace them with SS? And I'd put some grease on them.

Reply to
trader4

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