On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 07:52:09 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
The label on a battery doesn't mean ANYTHING, as far as which way it
faces, or which way it is installed. I know a battery distributor that
sells batteries under their own brand, as well as supplying them for
several other "private brands" and under the OEM name. They all come
in with no labels on them. They install their own private label, the
customer's private label, or the OEM label, depending where they are
going to be sold. The labels just go on. Sometimes one way, sometimes
the other - and in many cases no top label at all - just the side
I would NEVER go by label position to install a battery. ALWAYS go by
post location, and double check polarity before attempting to install.
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 07:52:09 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
Don't worry about it. It was good of you to go to so much trouble to
check out what you had said.
Did you see my other post about Firestone. Today went by quickly but
I'll call them next week.
When I say the cables on my current car move an inch or two, it's an
inch to the left or an inch to the right, total two inches.
I bought this great device, Priority Start, that monitors battery
voltage. Maybe there is a drain from the car alarm, or a glove box
left on, or the headlights, or something, and it disconnects the
battery when there is still enough juice to restart the car. All you
need do to reconnect the battery is turn on something that uses a
bunch of power. The dome light probably isn't enough but stepping on
the brake pedal usually is. And the car starts right up. The radio
stations are probably gone, and they say the engine control computer
loses its gathered data, but frankly, my cars have never seemed to run
differently without it. It was 80 dollars or a little more, but
well worth it.
On Friday, November 6, 2015 at 8:31:44 PM UTC-5, Micky wrote:
I don't think you'd see any performance difference after the ECU loses
it's mind, but I doubt you'd be able to get the vehicle inspected until all
of the monitors reset. That can be either via a few days of normal
driving or by performing a specific "drive cycle" which may reset
them more quickly.
NOT a good idea to install a reversed battery, even if the cables fit,
because very often the ground post is close to things that can easily
short to ground, while the "live" post is where it is safe. Turn it
arounf and the ground is well protected and the "live" is in close
proximity to the body or some other grounded structure --- NOT a good
I partially retract what I said. It also has "Adapter for JIS (Pencil
Post) Adapt your pencil post battery so SAE clamps will work securely.
But unless you had the same problem with both posts, I don't think you
have pencil post, whatever that is.
It is imperative he does not try to connect a larger cable connector to
a smaller battery post and vice versa. It is imperative he confirms the
negative cable is on the negative post and positive cable on the
positive post. If they are crossed, he WILL blow out his electrical
system at the least. That's a costly mistake for something which can be
avoided by paying attention.
I am most confident, that I havwe the correct (+) and (-) post
orientation/ connection. The Pos terminal does firt my Highlander, it
is only the Neg post where the "connection clamp" is over sized,
cannot securely clmap.
Of note, the factory installed clamp is a crimp fit, precluding an
option to easily connedt another, after maket clamp
On Sat, 07 Nov 2015 19:17:52 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Both Costco (where purchased) and the lame Interstate customer Service
have re-confirmed that I have purchsed the recommended unit.
I bought the Highlnader new, thus I know that I have the original
negative battery connecting strap/ securing clamp.
I was wondering if I cut a side open, on a short copper tube - then
put it over the negative post. With the increased diameter, the neg
clamp would securly compress. I am not sure if I might introduce other
problem(.)s, eg a galvanic reaction etc?
On Sunday, November 8, 2015 at 11:26:16 AM UTC-5, Rob email@example.com wrote:
Can you purchase the same *brand* as the battery you are trying to replace?
Did you put a set of calipers on the Neg post of both batteries? Wouldn't
it be interesting to find that they are the same width (and height) which
would take us back to the terminal.
When my wife drove a Taurus we had a few "dead battery" instances. I found
that the positive terminal would always be slightly loose each time the
battery died. It just wouldn't stay tight for some reason. I was chatting
with a mechanic who does side jobs and he said he'd replace the terminal
for $25, parts and labor. Mid winter, why would I say no? I went to his house, pulled into his garage and less than an hour later, the problem was solved.
Why do some people insist the OP use an adapter or bushing? That can
still lead to a spark and/or premature battery death. Simply purchase
the proper cable from an auto parts store. Direct contact is the best
connection. Problem solved.
On Monday, November 9, 2015 at 6:24:36 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How exactly a well tightened down terminal with a suitable filler
material inside is going to create a spark, IDK. If it were me,
I'd do that and sleep fine at night. He could replace the whole
cable, but even if you do it yourself, it could be a real pain in
the ass. People assume the other end is trivial to access. In
many cars today, it isn't.
I still can't fathom how this is happening. The video one, it had
some kind of metal cap interposer because *the connector was broken.*
I guess maybe if over time the connector is over tightened, the
lead will stretch until it's ruined. Maybe that's what happened
here. The other solution would be to cut off the old cable connector
and then put on a new one. How easy that would be to due, IDK.
In a vice, it would be easy. With the cable end not being held, IDK.
If using anything other than a battery shim, there's a potential for the
connection to fail from vibration and cause a spark. If using an actual
battery post shim, then it should be ok. Though, I would still replace
the cable if possible. Shim would be second option.
On Monday, November 9, 2015 at 5:02:22 PM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
Your car, your choice. I could sleep well at night with a piece of copper
tubing fashioned into a shim. Once it's tightened down, it's not going
anywhere. That is assuming the cable connector isn't already failing,
which it might be.
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