Wet car carpets an the waterproof membrane in car doors

After many false trails I have narrowed down the cause of wet carpets in our cars to rain leakage past the plastic membrane between the door trim panel and the door metalwork. I have to confess that for years I thought the membrane was for keeping out draughts, but I know see it forms a critical part of a cunning water drainage system. There is actually a shallow vertical channel pressed along the bottom of the door inner skin with a drain slot through the skin (see below in fixed font).

The idea is that any water running down the compartment side of the door inner skin is supposed to run along this channel to the drain slot/s thence to the door innards, and then finally drain out through a hole in the very bottom of the door. This lower drain hole is outside of the main door weather seal. Any water that runs down the surface next to the door trim will drip out on the interior side of the weather seal and finish up on the carpet. The plastic membrane forms completes the channel in the door skin, and without the membrane being glued to the door below the indented channel the whole scheme fails and wet carpets are the result.

Now the membrane is relatively delicate and has to be removed for several kinds of repair inside the door; e.g. central locking motors, electric window winders, door lock etc, so the original is stuck on with a tacky tape that allows several removal/refit operations while retaining a waterproof seal of membrane to the door skin.

So at last my question: What is this adhesive and where can I get some? It needs to stick permanently to the metal door skin and be tacky to plastic sheeting, and impervious to water. A double-sided tape would be ideal, but a caulk, or adhesive would also be suitable.

As you may guess the membranes in our cars have exhausted the tackiness and are now leaking, as evidenced by wet carpets and steamed up windows.

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Reply to
Phil
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[ re the long winded question about car door membranes ]

First off, what car is it, this might effect what should be used.

Second, if you don't mind having to replace the plastic each time you remove the membrane then use PU sealer, but don't get it any where you don't want to stick other wise you'll end up bonding it to the door frame.

Otherwise you could use spray on adhesive, which is a little more forgiving.

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

Duh... thought it would be informative for those that don't know why their carpets are wet - took me ages to eliminate everything else. Can't please everyone, I suppose.

Doubt it. One's a peugeot 206 x-reg, another is cavalier mk II saloon 88 vintage (but only 60K mls), and a Rover 216 box shape (1989, but only

33K mls). They all have essentially the same system and all leak the same way.

What's a PU sealer?

Can you suggest a make/source? Are they tacky.

-- Phil Replace NOSPAM with bigfoot to reply

Reply to
Phil

TBH I'd go for duct tape or similar, I've been told it's what the mechanics use at my Ford dealer... You can't often buy new membranes IME.

3M spray glue (bog standard type) won't glue door membranes to doors.
Reply to
Doki

I used duct tape previously when I thought the membrane was just to keep out draughts. It is sort-of OK, but you really want the plastic to be sealed right below the drain channel. Just sticking it down round the edges results in water gathering at the bottom of the membrane which will be 1"-2" below the drain hole. Not healthy for the door skin. I'm sure its a common bodge though; after all, I did it myself until I really HAD to figure out where the water was getting in.

It's easy enough to make a new membrane out of a sheet of polythene. Helps if you have the old one as a template though. Peugeot sell them for a ridiculous sum; think it was IRO 30-40 pounds.

Thanks - won't bother with that then. Being polythene-like, it will need something tacky to glue it.

Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at

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NOSPAM from address to email me

Reply to
Phil Addison

I'm intrigued. How is the membrane sealed? All the doors I've seen have fixings for the outer trim that couldn't be sealed. And holes for things like wires and door handles. I've always just considered it to be for the odd splash.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Yep. Duct tape is the way to go IMO. It's what I've always used without any problems, as long as you make sure the interior door skin is clean before sticking. Door skins can get surprisingly dusty. Enough to stop the duct tape sticking properly. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

Sorry but when you deal with these things almost daily....

Oh, right, no those models are more or less standard in their door weather proofing, but if they had been a newist Renualt then they don't use a membrane at all - the door pad is designed to be weather proof and they use a specail type of sealer to attach / seal the pad to the door frame.

Polyurethane sealer. Ask in any half decent motor factors, don't bother with places like halfwits, they will probably try and sealer you either silicon or mastic sealer.

Yes, it's an adhesive (!), you can get it at motor factors as well.

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

If they are using Duck tape then they are bodging....

Total boll*x, yes it will.

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

And is nothing but a bodge.

It's what I've always used without any

Oh do get a clue...

But he is not trying to stick the membrane to the door skin (I hope...), do try and get a clue. :~((

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

As an additional task whilst you're in there - buy some spray Waxoyl and liberally coat the door internal sheetwork (not anything where water runs, or mechanical). Works wonders on crap old cars where water *will* pool despite your best efforts - so should stave off rust indefinitely in a newer car...

Reply to
DocDelete

Thaught you'd left. Obviously our misfortune that you haven't. You always seem more interested in making scathing remarks about the posts of others, rather than offering constructive advice yourself. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

Seem like you can't use your newsreader either....

Oh do get a clue, stop trying to be a moron...

Well considering I replied first and with the correct answer and all you could do is offer a bodge and show just how clueless you are about cars even though you bull-shit your way whilst 'trying' to show that you know the first thing . As I said, get a clue.

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

As no one seems to know the proper answer, I am going to try double-sided lino tape. Shame Jerry could't be bothered to tell me what PU sealer is, or I could have considered that.

Thanks for all your inputs - it's nice to know I'm not alone in not knowing what to use.

-- Phil Replace NOSPAM with bigfoot to reply

Reply to
Phil

I have, perhaps your news server hasn't received the message (yet), so I'll repost what I said in that reply.

"Polyurethane sealer. Ask in any half decent motor factors, don't bother with places like halfwits, they will probably try and sealer you either silicon or mastic sealer."

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

Nope, it hasn't turned up in either group so far.

What form is it - spray, caulk, glue, tape, or what? Is it tacky?

-- Phil Replace NOSPAM with bigfoot to reply

Reply to
Phil

Hi,

In a pinch try Boss White, plumbers mait, glazing putty etc. If getting a seam sealer make sure it's non setting mastic, otherwise it could be the complete opposite! A local bodyshop might sell you a tube or tell you where it can be bought.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

The drivers side carpet used to become sodden on an old Vauxhall Astra my brother owned. We tried everything to work out where all this water was coming from - siliconed around the windcsreen, took up the carpet etc. to no avail. In the end it was just some mud/dirt lodged along the A-pillar near the hinges. The water which should have been draining down onto the sill was being diverted into the cabin.

Reply to
StealthUK

Use it via a caulking gun, and yes it is sticky.

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

What utter tosh ! :~(

That might have been correct 25 years ago....

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

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