I'd disagree w/ a typical small taper on a TS..the bandsaw, yes; TS, "not so much". Not that it can't be but it's a lot more trouble as you _must_ have a tapering sled for the TS whereas it's simply a freehand operation on the BS.
This is true but I then, most likely, you have to clean that cut up. And FWIW once you have the tapering sled it is not much different than ripping a board.
...
There's no "climb cut" anywhere to be seen -- a stopped cut, yes, but it's into the cutter and is a normal operation on a jointer.
A climb cut is cutting with the material moving in the same direction as the rotating cutter; that would be feeding from the outfeed table towards the infeed and yes, if were suggesting that it would be a definite no-no; but it isn't.
As I pointed out above, I'd worry some about the 3/8" in hardwoods primarily just for quality of the cut and likelihood of tearout (particularly with something like red oak that'd be _a_bad_idea_(tm) ) but looks like he's got a chunk of softwood in the demo.
It seems to me that many of what were considered routine operations 50+ year ago have been lost with the lack of industrial education. The general use of the jointer as demonstrated is not out of the ordinary at all; the only thing at all questionable in my opinion is that healthy cut in "one swell foop" instead of a couple of passes.
I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...
Well, you'll have to cleanup the TS cut, too, in all likelihood... :) And, it's only a lick or two with a good plane.
-MIKE- wrote in news:n0bjlf$eb5$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
You're kind of missing the point. The advantage of a shoe type push block is it exerts it's force well forward of the trailing edge of the work - which is desirable when you want to keep the work flat, as on a table saw.
For this cut, tho, you don't want the force forward. You want all of the downward force right at the trailing edge of the work. You could do that with a shoe, but it's probably easier to focus all the force on that point with the birds-mouth.
John
I'm not missing any point and I know perfectly well how and why shoe blocks work. Exerting force forward of the trailing edge is *one* advantage of a shoe block, not the only or even most important advantage. A shoe block can and would put downward force where it's needed for the procedure in this video. I have several shop-made shoe blocks of differing sizes/lengths, all with can be made in the time it takes to locate an appropriately size garbage can for storing a birdmouth pushstick. :-)
I still say a shoe block is better this (and just about any other) procedure. You can even see how uneasy the guy is with the birdsmouth sticks. That's generally how it goes any time people try to do a procedure with two pushsticks, trying to apply pressure in two directions at one time.
On 10/23/2015 9:36 AM, dpb wrote: ...
In fact, I venture there is a sizable fraction who don't even understand what that little outcroppie thingie is there for at all...
Norm was never (that I saw) dangerous. Glen, is usually dangerous (from what I have seen).
Agreed. My tapering sled is also used to cleanup boards with no straight edge.
Really, you going to tape them together? Clamp them together??? I don't think so. Repeatable. So is my tablesaw.
I had to do a set of 3/4x3/4 rabbets on some 6' boards recently. I considered the jointer for a moment, then said "no way!". ended up using the tablesaw (two cuts with a regular blade).
I think I've used that rabbeting shelf once, just to see how it worked. Haven't dared use it since then.
That's what I was looking for when I found the video I asked about. I could imagine a jointer being convenient for repeated rabbets.
I'm surprised that the tapering method seems to be a known, semi-standard technique. That said, I doubt I'll be trying it.
The Jointer was the tool of the day back 50 or more years ago for tapers and stuff, and also for rabbits as in both cases they were very clean and precise cuts.
BTW the guard has to come off for rabbits, there is no other way.
But I was shocked at the 3/8 " cut he was making right out of the chute. I am surprised it didn't chock on it.
I taper a lot of things via the jointer, albeit generally not in that manner nor for things with that much taper; as said, I'd cut that to near a line w/ the bandsaw and then just clean it up w/ the jointer (or a hand plane depending on my mood and the particular piece :) ).
Mostly what I do is to start w/ a line and simply work to the line by starting in the middle and repeat...but as said, it'd be rare indeed to choose to take that much off on that steep an angle via the jointer alone...
For the doubters on the BS, there's an article in August FWW by Pekovich of very nice dresser where he tapered the legs their length. One illustration shows the taper cut in progress; you can see there'll be very little handwork left when he's done...
If the only tool you have is a hammer then every problem tends to be a nail. Nothing wrong with birds mouth push sticks any more than there is with shoe blocks, etc. The trick is to use the one most appropriate for the job or... maybe custom make one for the job at hand.
I would not use the birds mouth stick as the gent did in the video... at least not when I'm knocking 3/8" off of stock. I'd want much more control than those will provide. OTOH, if the taper was going to be subtle, like 3/8" total, depending on the type of stock I might be comfortable using the birds mouth.
I suspect that those of us who get in trouble - and all of us do at one time or another - fall into the trap of "I know this ain't the best setup but..." It's quite similar to "Hey, hold my beer and watch this!"
Unquestionably Confused wrote in news:562ace16$0$60241$c3e8da3$ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:
My point exactly. For that particular job, a push stick that focused all the force at the trailing end would be most appropriate. Which isn't to say another style wouldn't work, it's more of a "better" and "best" situation.
As for a custom part, and to Mike's point about the difficulty of using two push sticks, I think if I were going to use that technique I'd try to find a way to use featherboards rather than the second stick. Which might take a specially shaped featherboard, or some sort of riser block to put it in the right position.
John
Except as noted in my post, when the leg stock is too thick to cut on a
10" bladed table saw, compounded further by the use of a sled.That, and exact repeatability, is why I have occasionally used the jointer to tape extra thick legs.
Never ceases to amaze me that folks who have no clue, and who so obviously have no personal experience with regard to a woodworking procedure, will continue to expound hereabouts as if their wisdom in the matter is infinite and unquestionable.
My thought on customizing the push block for doing the tapered leg on the jointer was to make an "L-shaped" push block with the sides slightly less width than the leg itself with a hook or edge on the near end to firmly push. Made in this fashion I think it would provide adequate support to hold down and snug the workpiece to the fence and table. Again, just thinking aloud but that's what I'd do. (Think of those jigs used to machine small parts on a router table. The jig firmly attached (however) to the workpiece and the jig is way larger than the workpiece for good control and safety.
another thought is that a joiner is not at the top of the list of tools to get
i do not have a joiner and have no plans to get one but more importantly i have not needed one
so maybe he was asked to find a use for the joiner and do a video
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