snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
I disagree; search for my post several years ago about "The Ultimate Taper Sled".
No planing needed with a good table saw blade either.
But trivially easy to accomplish with a properly-designed taper sled for the table saw. Much safer, too.
dpb wrote in news:n0dhlm$jnf$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
That depends on the construction of the taper sled. If you cut your tapers top-to-bottom, with the blade entering the side of the leg and exiting from the end, some blade deflection at the beginning of the cut is almost inevitable, leaving cuts that need some cleanup. That's one of the main reasons I designed and built what I called "TUTS - The Ultimate Taper Sled" (you may remember my post about that several years ago). That sled cuts tapers from the bottom up, with the blade entering the end of the leg and exiting from the side. There's no detectable blade deflection, and what little cleanup needs to be done can be accomplished in under a minute with a card scraper.
Swingman wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Even in that circumstance, I think I'd opt for roughing it on the band saw, followed by cleanup on the jointer, rather than doing the entire job on the jointer.
Tried that, went back to the ful lmonte jointer method on stock too thick to cut on the table saw.
Simply took too much time to get all legs to be exact replicas. Might be me just being anal, but I look closely at things like that and it bugs me no end to not see precisely dimensioned parts.
Much rather use one of my two tapering sleds, but simply can't cut 4" square leg stock on them, and those damned aluminum taper jigs are simply too treacherous ... waaaaay more so than the jointer method.
Not many people do it, was surprised to see it even mentioned here.
As usual, YMMV ...
Europeans have been using a jointer to taper parts for longer than dodo and his video have been around.
Hell, you have to have decent jointer chops to use a jointer and NOT taper a part, that's why you typically joint one face FIRST, and plane the other parallel. ;)
Absolutely, Thick legs/stock can be done on most any jointer, but in the example, the stock was not very big.
I started going from the bottom up, when I could not figure out why the taper was at an angle at the top. I don't remember if it was the rec or alt binaries where someone recommended bottom up.
My sled was capable either way. To me it seemed I was cutting against the grain with this method, but the cuts were now square. And it has not been a problem.
So I'll second your recommendation of cut from the bottom up. It solved my problem.
On 10/23/2015 12:53 PM, -MIKE- wrote: I have several shop-made shoe blocks of differing sizes/lengths,
I almost always prefer birdsmouth sticks, particularly on the table saw. I have zero problems applying pressure in two directions at the same time. IMO (and considerable experience) Birdmouths are very safe, hard to get hurt using them.
On the table saw, if the piece is large enough for a shoe block, I generally just use my hand. If it's too small for my hand, I prefer to use two birdsmouth, although in the last few years I have been using a piece of 2x with a handle. I feel very comfortable using two birds on the jointer when the piece is too small for a shoe type.
I see nothing particularly dangerous with his methods, although I never did it, I think it looks like a great method, not sure about a 3/8" cut on my jointer, unless I had a segmented spiral cutter head, which I really wish I had on my jointer.
Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but I use my jointer all the time, more than just for the planer, it is a very nice tool to have, and is about mandatory if you use a planer, or do much work with rough cut lumber.
Top of the list tool, probably not, nor is a planer, but they both are needed in a cabinet shop.
Amen to that. Near impossible to pull off. I quit trying long ago. Same with snipe on a planer. I quit trying and simply add snipe to the cut off list when possible.
Ditto! Of the many ways to make a rabbet, this has to be the least favorite. I did it exactly once for the same reason as you, just way too much hassle for the the wrong tool to do the job. Well, it might be better than using a motor-less rabbeting plane... yuck.
i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself
A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to me, unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do, please point me towards your supplier :-).
I have both, but my jointer is small and not much good for lengths over
4 feet. I usually buy lumber that is at least flat on one side, though.A planer is also very useful for flattening joined panels. When making panels wider than my planer (13"), I will often only glue-up sections narrower than that, plane each one perfectly flat, then join those panels together for the final width. That leaves you with 1 or 2 glue joints to scrape even instead of a dozen or more.
For the last few years, I've used the drum sander[*] in place of the planer for almost everything the planer was formerly used for; particularly for panels as well as for making one face coplaner with the other face. If I need to remove more than .125", I'll often drag out the Jet 15" planer, but more often than not I'll resaw thicker stock rather than discarding (composting) piles of shavings.
[*] Performax 22-44.
I often use my planer but got rid of my jointer about 5 years ago. Certainly good to have if you surface rough cut lumber but I simply did not use mine.
Flat wood. I go through the lumber that I buy to make sure I get relatively flat wood. Past that If you buy S4S lumber that is not flat a jointer is not going to do you any good either unless you are OK with less than 3/4" thick. Selling my work I find that there is simply not enough savings to mill the wood to final thickness and I go with S4S to begin with. I only use my planer if I buy S2S or need less than 3/4" thick material.
Yeah! My Performax 22-44 sees lots of action too. If I can resaw the sander gets the work. If I need more than half the thickness of the stock the planer gets the work out.
I would love a wide sander like that! The woodworking shows had a vendor called Stockroom Supply that sold flatness sander kits for much cheaper than an industrial model. I still may get one of those.
Swingman wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
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