wobble dado

The same way as you would do if making the entire cut with the router.

Well, one could certainly do that; however, IMO, routers are really meant to trim relatively small amounts of wood. And, IME, they work best in that manner. If one needs a bunch of 3/4 x 3/4 grooves in 6/4 oak, you could either hog out most - 11/16 x 11/16 for example - with a table saw in one pass and then make one light pass with the router to final size or you could make multiple basses with a 3/4" router bit, gradually increasing the depth. I find the former easier and better, YMMV.

Reply to
dadiOH
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[about wobble-blade dados]

For a Craftsman 720.3261, 720.3262, or 720.3263, aka "93261" the instruction sheet indicates flat bottom for 3/4" width in the as-delivered condition. Presumably, if you send a wobble set to a sharpening service, you can specify a flat cut at any width you choose.

The 'W' shape kerf indicated for narrower cuts than 3/4" is fairly easy to rework with a sharp chisel, of course.

Reply to
whit3rd

What you're missing is that the teeth aren't flat.

Ditto. They're available aftermarket, too.

Reply to
krw

Multiple passes?

It just seems that this is a lot of setup work.

Reply to
krw

I was looking for some easy trick that could use the setup already used for the dado, like Leon's top-bearing bit.

Reply to
krw

If it takes multiple passes, then that kind of proves it's not good for hogging out a lot of material, right?

Again, it always depends on the task/job and tools. In my case, where I'm dealing with a pretty good dado/rabbet that just needs the "bat ears" flattened out a pattern bit is a quick way to square out the bottom without any extra set-up.

But I also already have jigs made that set up to a cut-line with no measuring/marking of any kind, so any extra set-up time is negligible.

Reply to
-MIKE-

Of course. We all understand routers, here. However, it's only one setup. I worry about registration errors if I were to use two tools for one operation.

Reply to
krw

Often, when I do this, I'm hogging it out on the TS a little shy of the total dimension. Then the router cuts the final dimensions, usually barely taking any wood with it.

With my dado jig, the process is very fast.

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But like I said, I don't always go to both TS and router. There are situation and circumstances that make it a no-brainer for me to use both and there are times when one or the other is a much better option.

Reply to
-MIKE-

Whether you want to take a lot or not, the registration has to be perfect. ...or you will. ;-)

Very nice. Bunch of good ideas hiding in there. Thanks!

Reply to
krw

I don't recall the model, LOL but mine was a Craftsman that I bought in

1979. It had a very noticeable cupped bottom that got worse the wider the cut.
Reply to
Leon

Understood but their reach is constant. The wider the cut, the shallower the cut at the edges of the dado.

Mine never gave a flat bottom.

Reply to
Leon

Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface

I may be misunderstanding what you mean by registration. Let's say I need a 3/4" dado cut exactly between 23-1/4" and 24" from the end of a bookcase side. On the table saw, maybe I will only cut a

5/8 dado slot at 23-15/16" from the edge and a tad shy of full depth. When I route the final dado slot with the router, I set my guide to the 24" and cut. It makes a very clean edge on all three sides, only having to cut 1/16" all around. That's just an example.

It's really not different than rough cutting a sheet of plywood a little large, then cutting down to the final dimension on the TS. The rough cut is largely irrelevant and the critical measurement is only done once.

Thank you, it's been really good to me. Like many of my jigs, it was only intended to be a rough prototype that would serve as a template for a final version. But it works so well, I just stuck with it.

Reply to
-MIKE-

On 1/19/2017 11:18 PM, -MIKE- wrote: snip

Looks a lot like a design I came up with about 12~ 15 years ago. ;~)

Reply to
Leon

A good songwriter is a better thief. :-)

Who knows? Whoever I stole it from probably stole it the guy who stole it from the guy who stole it from the guy who stole it from the guy who stole it from you.

Reply to
-MIKE-

OK I think I can see how that can happen now. Not just the angle of grind on the teeth for a flat cut at a given width but also the teeth that remain near the center of a 3/4" cut are actually ground shorter in length than the outer cutting teeth.

That would also cause a high spot in the middle of narrower grooves or dados.

The one I had was pretty old and not made that way, the wider the dado the more cup I got in the middle of the grove or dado.

Reply to
Leon

LOL I saw the concept in a WW magazine many years ago. They simply clamped a= piece of wood on a cut line and used a sample piece to register another pi= ece to clamp. And you know why we built ours the way we did. :-)

Reply to
Leon

?It's only temporary...unless it works." ;-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

-MIKE- wrote in news:o5r2k0$9sq$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

[...]

Check out the Northwoods Dado-Master from Ridge Carbide Tools

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I've had mine for about 15 years now, and have been completely satisfied with it. I bought it at the Woodworking Show when both Forrest and Ridge were exhibiting, and compared test cuts from the two side-by-side. I couldn't see any point in the Forrest Dado King: why pay more money for lesser results? The Ridge dado set is two-thirds the price of the Forrest, and gives better cuts. The bottom is dead flat, and the bat ears are almost imperceptible without a magnifying glass, whereas the Forrest leaves tiny but still readily visible bat ears.

Reply to
Doug Miller

That's one I have bookmarked. I've hear great things about that set. Have to admit I'm not very happy to hear even those leave bat ears, though.

The dial-a-dado is the other set on my list. I think the convenience would be worth the extra money.

Reply to
-MIKE-

Ah! That's what I missed. I thought you were only cleaning up the bottoms with the router.

Yes, now I see. You're just using the saw as the rough cut, much like I use the track saw for the rough cut, cleaning it up with the table saw.

Reply to
krw

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