at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me
they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator
who has used a wobble dado
the cut could not have come out very good
You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or professional cuts
and fit? The corners won't be as square because of the way it cuts.
Another opinion here
Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.
I have used a wobble dado many times.
It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.
From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom
dados. If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados
the wobble dado will suffice for rough work.
Don't use if for furniture.
On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 4:43:28 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
I want both.
Wobble and stack both do good sidewalls; I prefer router cuts to get
flat bottoms, though. Routed dado cuts can be stopped more easily, too.
That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.
If all you want is a dado to guide some slide-in inserts, wobble is fine.
It doesn't require you to keep track of a lot of washers and chippers, such
as are missing from my several part-sets of stacked dado blades...
On 1/19/2017 12:00 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I was thinking as close to the narrowest setting.
I don't want to get into a pissing contest with you here but consider
this and let me know if I am missing something.
Regardless of grind if the blade is straight up and down,the narrowest
setting and perpendicular to the work it will make the narrowest cut.
As you widen the wobble the blade does not protrude as far up as with
the perpendicular setting "on the outsides of the cut". The teeth at
the center of the blade still cuts deep and the tips of the blade, near
the outer edge of the cut, do not cut as deeply. Easier to visualize
using a pendulum and or a plum bob that just touches the surface and
when you swing it away it no longer touches the surface.
The ones that came with my Forrest Dado set are rubber magnetic and one
have gotten away after hundreds of uses.
OK I think I can see how that can happen now. Not just the angle of grind
on the teeth for a flat cut at a given width but also the teeth that remain
near the center of a 3/4" cut are actually ground shorter in length than
the outer cutting teeth.
That would also cause a high spot in the middle of narrower grooves or
The one I had was pretty old and not made that way, the wider the dado the
more cup I got in the middle of the grove or dado.
On Thursday, January 19, 2017 at 8:40:21 AM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
[about wobble-blade dados]
For a Craftsman 720.3261, 720.3262, or 720.3263, aka "93261" the instruction sheet
indicates flat bottom for 3/4" width in the as-delivered condition.
Presumably, if you send a wobble set to a sharpening service, you can specify
a flat cut at any width you choose.
The 'W' shape kerf indicated for narrower cuts than 3/4" is fairly easy to rework with
a sharp chisel, of course.
I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be handled in a
couple of ways...
1. Ignore it.
2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that purpose.
But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of the
dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish with one pass of
a router bit for final width and depth.
On 1/19/17 12:02 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
True, in some cases and as usually it just depends on what you're doing.
While router bits are great for making, clean, precise, square cuts,
they are not particularly well suited for hogging out a bunch of material.
As people will do with rough cutting down plywood into smaller sections,
then doing the precise cutting on the TS, I've done the opposite on a
few projects that made it more efficient for me. You hog out the bulk
of material on the TS, quickly and with little effort. They you clean
it up with a precise cut using the router.
Maybe one day I'll spend the cash for an excellent set of dado blade
that do, in fact, produce a perfectly straight and square bottom withOUT
bat ears and I won't feel the need to clean the cut up with the router.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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