Dado repair... good idea.

[woodchucker]

I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them from spinning into each other.

I took out my engraver and just kept putting lines in a star burst from the arbor out, but actually brought them from out to the arbor hole.

They lock nicely and don't slide, each face probably added less than 2

10 thous so it's all good.

Just a tip brought to you by the woodchucker.. who is buried under snow.. 12-16 expected here today. I usually get the top end as we are in the mountains, but I am in a valley in the hills... so it just dumps here. I must have heard hundred times from the wife... do you have gas for the snow blower... :-(

[Leon]

Good tip

FWIW I have a Forrest DadoKing dado set. I love the set but like you my set will spin some times, some times not.

Here is what I have determined. Mine spin if I don't use the washer between the outer blade and the net. The friction between the nut and the outer blade causes the blade to reposition when I tighten the nut.

When cutting a narrower dado and using the out side washer I get no spinning when tightening the nut.

[woodchucker]

is your spinning a result of wax or lube? or just steel to steel?

NET???

[Dan Kozar]

Jeff,

I have used Dri Cote with no slipping problems for years. And have had good luck with Top Cote on cast iron surfaces. However, I seem to recall that they have changed their names, but should be easy to find in the catalogs.

[woodchucker]

Thanks, but I already did the engraving. Seems like the knurling (a form of) will do the trick. If I run into another situation I'll consider them. Between all the stuff out there, it's hard to remember which does what. Boeshield, topcote, dri cote, and others.

[krw]

Bostick bought DriCote and renamed it BladeCote (TopCote is now GlideCote). They're the "same thing" ("scare quotes" because some believe they changed the formula). They seem to be much more available these days, though if you buy on the Internet, watch the shipping costs!

[-MIKE-]

I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I actually used it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks because the dry cold was really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those listening in bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be slippery. It can be found at any sporting good store with an archery section.

[Leon]

Actually Bostick bought Topcote from Empire back in the 80'- 90's and recently renamed it. I suppose there was a non compete clause as Empire only started competing again 10+ years ago.

[Leon]

Steel to steel, and mostly only the outer blade against the nut when tightening.

[woodchucker]

FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7. DriCote, blade cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.

[-MIKE-]

The stuff I use is about 4 bucks out the door...

Those aren't accurate price comparisons, for what it's worth. The volume/weight/whatever of the bow string wax is all wax. With those canned products that volume also includes the propellants and carriers for the actual lube or coating. I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

[Larry Blanchard]

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact opposite of what is wanted in this case.

[woodchucker]

I always thought the weight was actual product and not propellant. That would seem to be a bad way of telling the consumer how much they are getting if they included propellant.

[-MIKE-]

Exactly. I don't get his post at all.

[krw]

Boeshield is not at all slippery. That's why I'm going to try switching to GlideCote (TopCote).

[woodchucker]

I was merely referring to the advice given by others on products.

How easy would it be to spread and buff out the bow wax? Seem like bees wax, as bees wax always seems sticky in raw form.

[-MIKE-]

Seems like? I don't think "seems like" is relevant to this discussion.

You don't buff it out. It's pretty darn easy to rub that tube up and down my sticks a few times. You could do the same thing to the side of a saw blade in about ten seconds. No need to spread or buff. It would only need to be in contact with a small percentage of the blades, anyway. He's trying to stop the blades from slipping. This is an uncommon problem and it would take very little *added* friction to solve it.

The real point, however, is that this isn't a lube. He wanted something to prevent rust that wasn't a lubricant. This is the only product of all of those that meets those requirements.

[-MIKE-]

Perhaps not the propellant, I don't know. But it wouldn't surprise me if the stated amount on the can was all ingredients. There are other carriers in there that allow the lube to be sprayed which evaporate away.

[clare]

You would need to spread it if you want full coverage to prevent rust

- which was, let's face it, the FIRST thing he was trying to accomplish. A few strokes of the wax stick is NOT going to prevent the blade from rusting.

[clare]

The can says "net weight" - which includes the wax, the solvent, and the propellant. Inside the can all 3 are liquid, and after shaking they are pretty well mixed (in solution),