You're right, I neglected to cover that. Ehem.... add another ten seconds to cover the whole blade.
Love this group... half guys who really are looking for advice and want to help others, and half guys who just love to bitch and moan and argue.
(BTW, who is selling saw blades that rust!?)
If he is talking about the same slipping I am it is between next chipper and the outer blade that is next to the arbor nut. In some cases you have to leave the washer off when the stack is too wide. If only the nut is applied to the outer blade the nut will often turn that blade when tightening. The outer washer is normally beveled on the nut side and there is less friction between it and the nut when tightening than there is when the nut is tightened up against the outer blade.
In a nut shell My outer blade slips against the chipper blade when I do not use the washer between the nut and the blade. I get no slipping when tightening when I use the washer.
I think what some don't realize is that wax it self is not slippery. Yes you wax your TS top to make it slick. BUT you have to buff off the excess before it becomes slick. It feels slick after buffing because the tiny imperfections in the metal have been filled and they no longer grab as much as when they were not filled. Same goes with waxing your car's paint. Surfers waxed their boards but do not wipe off the wax because they wanted to surface to not be slippery.
Forrest is one, actually any blade that I have owned and does not have paint on it has rusted to some extent.
Boeshield is not slippery at all, you have to buff it off before things begin to become close to slick.
The TopCotes products have always been the product that I go back to after trying another.
Many years ago when Empire made TopCote mid 80's it was only designed and or sold as a product to make the metal surface slick and came in a pump bottle. I discovered that it worked extremely well, so much that if I tossed a short board on top of the saw surface it was very likely to slide off the opposite edge. I also discovered that the product had a bonus feature, I no longer had a rust problem in humid Houston.
After they sold TopCote to Bostich it was never packaged the same and never worked as well. The old TopCote dispensed as a liquid that actually puddled on the saw surface and evaporated. The Bostich mostly comes out as a fog and does not seem to penetrate as well before evaporating.
That is what one would think but thinking back, the old Empire TopCote that was applied from a 4~5 oz pump spray bottle easily last as long as the 10oz. Bostich TopCote that comes out like a fog.
You are correct. It's quite gummy, isn't it?
Any hints for removing the Boeshield completely? Just mineral spirits?
Hmm. Does it still protect your saw?
Buff buff buff or Acetone... Not sure about Mineral Spirits.
As good as any thing that I have used lately. If you have never used it before you want to apply as directed. IIRC a couple of heavy coats.
Now if you do get a rust spot..... And you are going to think I am crazy...... put a small spot of wood glue, the regular stuff on the rust spot and leave it there a minute or two. In fact if you just put a spot anywhere on the cast iron top and wipe it off 10 or seconds later the surface will look brand new.
The directions say that mineral spirits will take it off but it seems to leave some. I can try acetone but I normally don't have it around.
I will (read the instructions). I bought a can but I haven't taken the Boeshield off yet. It's been working fine but I don't like its surface.
You're right..... ;-) I'm not even going to ask how you found this trick.
I used to use my TS top and extension table to glue up tall cabinets. Occasionally glue would drip on to the surface of the cast iron table top. When removing the glue I made this discovery.
Take note, if you leave it on there too long rust will develop. IIRC I let it dry when I discovered the rust.
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