LED bulbs won't turn off in outdoor light/motion sensor base.

I replaced incandescent flood bulbs on outdoor light/motion sensor base and the LED bulbs stay on all the time, day & night. Is it a technology problem? Do I need to put incandescent bulbs back in, or replace the base?
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Any chance you kciked the unit into "stay on" mode?
- many have this as an option.
I ran into this with a newly installed unit which stayed lit.
That circuit has a wall mounted switch and.. if you turned it off then back on within a couple of seconds, the lamps remained energized and lit regardless of motion, etc.
To get it back into "motion sensor mode" involved simply turning the wall switch off for 30 or more seconds, then back on.
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On 12/14/2015 9:55 PM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I am actually glad to hear that someone else has the same problem. I currently have a Philips non-dimmable LED in one of our eleven motion sensor outdoor lights and although it does not come on during the day it frequency does not go off at night once it is turned on by motion. I just went out and flipped it on test and back to shut it off and then walked by and of course it came back on but to my surprise it went off after the programmed 5 or 6 minutes. Because it is not consistent I am going to try exactly the same brand, model, and wattage of bulb (I have a bunch of them) in a few others and see what I get from them...maybe I just have one bad fixture.
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IGot2P wrote:

Should try dimmable one too.
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On 12/14/2015 09:55 PM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I haven't yet used LED bulbs in such a fixture, but I have tried CFLs. It may work properly if you replace only one bulb (one incandescent, the other LED).
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I've never seen a motion sensor that works like it should all the time. It dont matter how much you pay for them, none are perfect. Some are better than others though.
Anyhow, it could be there is not enough current being drawn to turn off the light. (Just a guess). If so, you may have to either use LED bulbs that draw more current (higher wattage), or make one of the bulbs an incandescent, the other a LED.
Maybe the dimmable ones will work better, I dont really know. LED is new technology, so there will be issues, and since motion sensors have always been touchy, that just adds to the issues.
Do they make and sell motion sensor fixture INTENDED FOR LEDs? I dont know, I have never looked for them. I got rid of most of my motion sensor fixtures because they seemed to waste more power than without. Seemed that the lights would go off just from a dog or cat, or a wild animal, moving branches, rain/snow, etc. So it seemed they were turning on and off all hours of the night. I only have one left on my barn, but I put a switch on it. When I'm working out there after dark, I turn the switch on and the sensor works when I go near the thing. Before I go in the house at night, I turn it off.
This is not the first time I heard of this problem, including using CFL bulbs.
You could also wire a second fixture to the same sensor, that would be FOUR LED bulbs on one sensor. Maybe that would help????
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On 12/15/2015 02:27 AM, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moc wrote:
[snip]

It's all got to be in PAIRS.
What's wrong with ONE little incandescent light wired to that sensor, as well as the LEDs you want?
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Nonsense. You can use 1 bulb 2 bulbs, or 12 bulbs, as long as you dont exceed the amperage allowed by the sensor and/or the circuit.
The old Flood light bulbs were 100 or 150 watts. So it was not uncommon to run 200 or 300 watts off a sensor. 12 LED bulbs would not likely exceed 300W.

DO IT !!!
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replying to Paintedcow, Lynster wrote: I think you might be on to something with the "Current Draw" theory. I've got several dusk/dawn/motion fixtures around the house and thought I'd save some "long term" money by replacing the incandescent flood bulbs with LED flood bulbs. Nope, bad idea... they don't turn off but go into a rapid flashing (very irritating) mode. When motion is detected, they go on full, but then when it times out, back to rapid flash. SO to throw more $$ away, I bought a couple of new control heads that explicitly state on the box "Works with LED, CFL, yada, yada..." Bad news, they do the same thing! I wonde if they test this crap before they start selling it?
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On 8/13/17 4:14 PM, Lynster wrote:

Buy a cheap mechanical relay rated for the voltage of your system. It might suck up the odd current in your circuit. Amazon, Ebay, or maybe your local auto parts store if the circuit is dc. I got this idea from the resident electrical whiz kid when I was having trouble with solid state relays.
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On Sunday, August 13, 2017 at 5:14:11 PM UTC-4, Lynster wrote:

If you can live with one incandescent in that circuit, it will probably work. For example, if you have four 75W bulbs and replace 3 with LED, you've cut the power usage by ~60% and it will probably work. Whether it's acceptable, not noticeable to have one different, depends on the application. Or you could even have one 40W bulb in there and it will likely work.
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replying to trader_4, Thankful wrote: The one incandescent bulb did the trick on a sensor-ed system. Thanks
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On Wednesday, June 27, 2018 at 1:44:14 PM UTC-4, Thankful wrote:

Always good to hear that suggestions worked. Thanks for letting us know.
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replying to Lynster, Grammy wrote: Not according to a manufacturer that I called. While in Lowes, I found a motion light that showed it could use LED lights. While there I called the phone number on the fixture box. I asked what brand LED bulb they suggested. He said, "Oh, we don't test them". He said anything should work. Doesn't the government require testing of electrical products? I become frightened when I have a conversation like that.
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On 10/12/2017 11:14 PM, Grammy wrote:

If it explicitly says it should work with LED bulbs, buy it. Try it out and if it doesn't work, return the cheap china-crap piece of shit to McLowesDepot and get your money back.
At some point the china-junk manufacturers and retailers will become tired of product returns and stop screwing consumers with this mal-engineered mal-advertised china-crap.
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On Friday, October 13, 2017 at 4:55:42 AM UTC-4, Hecho en China wrote:

found a

alled the

suggested. He said, "Oh, we don't test them".  He said anything shoul d work.

d-bulbs-won-t-turn-off-in-outdoor-light-motion-sensor-base-860658-.htm

nd if it doesn't work, return the cheap china-crap piece of shit to McLowes Depot and get your money back.

d of product returns and stop screwing consumers with this mal-engineered m al-advertised china-crap.
+1
And if it says it works with LEDs, it probably does.
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It depends on the design. If it has a relay in it, the bulb type does not matter.
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According to the kill-o-watt meter I tested with, incandescents have a power factor of 1.0, while CFLs and LEDs were running at 0.6.
Just throwing it out there, I don't know what kind of circuit that would be a problem for, if any.
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On Fri, 29 Jun 2018 06:00:52 -0700 (PDT), TimR wrote:

Power factor of the load is not relevant. The original problem was that many models of motion-activated light switches use the load as a virtual ground for the sensor circuit. Thus there is always a small current flow through the load while the sensor is checking for motion.
Full current is applied when motion is detected, and the small continuous flow while it is 'waiting' is not enough to light an incandescant bulb.
But it *is* enough to light the much more efficient LEDs. Thus they end up being slightly 'on' while no motion is detected. Because of the design of the AC power supply in the base of the LED that convert & filters the current for the LED, often they will blink very fast instead of lighting up very dimly.
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On 06/29/2018 10:28 AM, Mike_Duffy wrote:
[snip]

Also, LEDs don't have to heat up to produce visible light.

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