Weird Pipe Found Buried in Yard

I'm getting ready to build a "Florida Room" on the back of our house. I'm clearing out some bushes and plants to make way for the addition. I found a 1.5" sch.40 PVC pipe running straight away from the house, next to the driveway pad, in between the pad and where all the vegetation was planted.
On the far end out near the vegetation, was a PVC threaded end cap with a pipe-thread adapter and a pneumatic male coupler tool connector. The nipple hole of the coupler had been sealed with what I think is pipe solder. I drilled it out and it had the same consistency.
I sent a plumbing snake up the pipe towards the house and it hits right near the foundation, but not any further in.
Any ideas what this was used for? First thing I thought was some sort of hand watering quick connect. But why 1.5" sch.40?
By the way, the inside of the pipe was bone cry and fairly clean.
Weird.
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On 6/1/2018 4:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Could it have been the conduit for an electric wire to some sort of light at the end of your driveway
Have you tried to find the point that it enters hits the foundation of the house? If you have a basement you may be able to find where it comes through the basement wall.
In one house we had, there was an electrical line that came out of the vent in the foundation of the house and disappeared under the ground. I know they had a water feature in the front yard and assumed it was for the pump.
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On 6/1/2018 5:27 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:

Last summer I dug up a clogged gutter drain pipe 50' from my house. When I pulled out the pipe, there was a 14 gauge electric wire crossing under the pipe. Luckily I missed chopping up the wire by about an inch. No idea what it was for, probably an old, long gone driveway lamp. Later digging next to the house, I found a line coming out of the house about a foot under ground going who knows where, but I think it is still live.
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On 6/1/18 3:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

I dug it up at the foundation of the house and it has a 90° elbow coming straight up, with a dry-fit cap, just a couple inches under the soil.
Mystery to me why it was put there, but here's the funny part. I need to run electric out to my Sharn and am dreading having to get it past the concrete driveway. The path of this pipe isn't the spot I wanted to go, but since it's already under the patio pad, I might use it. :-)
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On 6/1/2018 5:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

See; I told you that it had an electrical cable;-)
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in rec.woodworking the following:

    Ah yes - "Before we start this project, lets take a look at what we have, and we'll design it from there."
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pyotr filipivich
Next month's Panel: Graft - Boon or blessing?
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On Fri, 01 Jun 2018 16:24:17 -0700, pyotr filipivich

Hey, that's better than "Before we figure out what we want to do, let's take a look at what we have.".
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snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com on Fri, 01 Jun 2018 23:01:51 -0400 typed in rec.woodworking the following:

    Done that too.
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On 6/1/18 4:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Funnier part... finding this pipe under the pad distracted me so much that I forgot that I had already figured all this out. :-) I can't use that path because it I would have to take a hard right turn and then another left to go around the end of the septic system's leach field. I don't like the prospect of pulling #6 through those bends on a 100'+ run.
On the far edge of the driveway is a row of 80ft Poplars. Because I don't want to dig through their major roots, I can't use a ditch-witch to trench that path.
At the corner of the garage where I intended to start the underground conduit, there is an expansion joint in the parking area pad with asphalt expansion joint filler. The path along that joint is far enough away from the leach bed and far enough from the tree roots that I can go straight back along that expansion joint. All I have to do is rent a concrete saw and make one cut a few inches from the existing expansion joint and then fill it back in with Quickcrete when I'm done laying the conduit.
That will be easier than hand digging a trench around 3-4" tree roots and trying to weave the conduit over and under them.
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My most recent wiring project was running outdoor rated CAT6 out to the garage. You're already digging for one set of cable, might it be worth digging for another? (Cat6 is easy to terminate, just use a punch down connector and a decent punch tool.)
You can't run network cable close to power cable, though, unless you take certain precautions. Parallel runs are a bad thing, but if you must go close to power cables you can enclose the cable in a grounded pipe. I didn't run in to these problems with my cable run, so I didn't research them further.
Puckdropper
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wrote:

Nowadays it is far wiser to Wifi to the garage.
grounding issues are always a problem, and I am speaking about the earth ground differences. It can create a capacitance that will blow out a NIC and sometimes the whole computing device electronics.
Even on high rise bldgs over a large footprint the grounding may be different from one side of the bldg to the other and so you cannot directly link devices for that reason. I have seen serious signal degradation even on a 60 ft underground run that really slowed down communications. Enclosed in water tight conduit and verified it was dry and no shorts due to scuffing when the cable was pulled.
Just a thought.
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On 6/2/18 10:11 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

My buddy is an IT guru and he told me to run CAT10 with the AC and I'd be fine.
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wrote:

I am Cisco certified, it is not recommended.
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On 6/2/18 7:37 PM, OFWW wrote:

60 cycle interference?
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wrote:

In is unsafe to take a chance with high voltage crossing over to a consumer device. There is also the electromagnetic effect, especially on an A/C system with its varying loads. On systems with variable speed drives there are multiple problems, and it is also a Code violation in most places. It is not even recommended to mix land line phone lines in the walls, or conduit, and any box.
The twist in CAT cables knocks out a lot of noise but not all noise.
There are more technical reasons as well, but I'd have to look it up, I just recently threw away all my books, manuals, etc. figuring I have been retired long enough that I'd not ever need them again. :)
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wrote:

The code violation is the real issue. A 250 Mhz circuit is not going to even see 60Hz unless it's of such magnitude that it generates an arcover in the isolation transformers.
Note that phone line considerations are different from data. 60Hz is audible--if you've got 60Hz interference on a phone line you can _hear_ it. A 250 MHz data line is another story.
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On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 00:38:01 -0400, J. Clarke

It isn't as cut n dry as you might think. Run a scope on the signal look for the interference. If what you said were true you wouldn't need a certain amount twists per a foot of Wire.
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wrote:

Twisted pair ethernet is unidirectional on a given pair. Gigabit uses four pairs, two carrying signal one way and two carrying it the other way. It's crosstalk on those pairs that is the major driver in the spec.
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On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 02:04:58 -0400, J. Clarke

Why the shielding?
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wrote:

What shielding? CAT1 through 6A are _not_ shielded and 6A is specified to carry 10 gig Ethernet 100 meters. The first shielded "CAT" level is CAT7, which is not recognized by EIA/TIA and is not required by any IEEE standard.
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